savage 25 drop in diff upgrade?

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robn69

Well-Known Member
Messages
140
I'm doing a brushless conversion on a savage 25 and looking to upgrade the diffs in the process (its a basket case ). For now just looking for something that will go in the 25 diff housing. I know you can swap to the x housing and stuff like that. But on a tight budget so seeing what my other options are.
 
Upgrading to the bulletproof diff setup would probably be best but you're going to have to replace the bulkheads and such. If you're not wanting to do that then probably stick with stock and make sure everything is properly shimmed so there isn't much sloop.
 
well if ya wanna run it as is it is going to work, how long things last will be dependent on how heavy a trigger finger you use and how you land from jumps... I mean really all it can do is break and need to be fixed.....
 
pretty much i guess. I was just hoping someone who has first hand experience could let me know what to expect
 
what he said

Yes I run them, they are way tougher than the newer stock arms
They are a drop in replacement, you might want to use a m3 metric screw instead of the stock coarse thread screw for the shock end link to eliminate the screw from backing out though
 
Honestly man, I feel like you should save up and go big or go home. I grew up with a savage 21 and they were great, but they really arent made/intended for brushless power. I feel like your going to have a ton of heart ache after spending hours doing this brushless swap only to trash your diffs in the first hour of use. I smoked both of my diffrentials (the bulletproof steel ones) the first time i took my flux out becuase I ran it on 6s, but even on 5s, 4s, etc the 2200kv engines just break things. and I'm pretty sure the .25 had plastic diffs, which in my oppinion are going to shred like cheese to the mamba monster.
 
The diff cups were plastic, all gears are powdered metal.

I remember guys with Kershaw conversions running 18 cells on em lol. A light finger and some shimming go a long ways
 
The diff cups were plastic, all gears are powdered metal.

I remember guys with Kershaw conversions running 18 cells on em lol. A light finger and some shimming go a long ways

Yep a fast trigger finger will destroy diffs quickly, if running an overpowered vehicle roll into the trigger to get it rolling and then let it fly. Wheelies are cool but tough on the drive train.
 
pretty much i guess. I was just hoping someone who has first hand experience could let me know what to expect

I converted a Savage 25 (well it was the SS (kit) version of it). I did it in stages and also for as cheap as possible because I just bash around in the back yard...and no real jumps...not crazy at least.

I started with a Tacon 4074 2150KV, XERUN 150A ESC, 2 X 2S SPC LiPo 65C, and a Kershaw Designs mount. I left my diffs alone because they worked, and simply converted my original tranny to the flux tranny - I think Kershaw gave me that part with the mount or I bought it from them.

That worked fine for a while (note my diffs had previously been upgraded to the 4 spider gears). After a few months I decided to upgrade because I below up that stock tranny. I did the diffs...alloy cups, new spiders, 50K diff oil, and shimmed properly. I also replaced the drive cups (the things the center dog bones sit in because they were worn out - before i converted to brushless) I also bought the Kershaw Direct Drive system.

overall...the Savage is probably one of the toughest trucks out there. Aside from breaking drive shaft dog bones every now an then (which will happen because of the torque). It's held together pretty good. Oh I also upgraded to the 17mm axle nut...worth it.

I have some new TVPs coming as I'm going to convert to XL...mine are a little bent from a crash (or maybe even the torque of the motor). But TVPs are cheap - you can buy 3-4 sets of them for the cost of a HD set from FLM.
 

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