Savage 25 carb/engine connection

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kgilliland22

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5
Hi all, I am fairly new to the R/C world but was given a Savage 25 by a co-worker a couple of years ago with a suspension problem. I fixed that issue and drove it quite a bit. It ran really well and was a lot of fun. Last year I took the carb off to clean it out and once I put it all back together, I have never been able to keep the carb tight where it mounts to the engine.

I tighten the set screw down as tight as I can but after running it for a couple minutes, the carb will come loose, and the motor will get very hot to where the fuel almost seems to be boiling. I am guessing that is from running lean when the carb comes loose and extra air is added.

Has anyone seen this happen or have any tips? I would like to get this truck going again as my kids are getting old enough to really enjoy it. I am not opposed to putting a new motor on it if there was a simple, direct replacement for it as I know this one has a lot of hours on it. Thanks in advance.
 
Some RTV (gasket sealant) should help seal it up, but it seems odd that it loosens up like that. Perhaps a dab of blue thread lock could do the trick.
 
is it possible the isolator has lost its grip on the carb base, a bit of epoxy will keep it in place if it has, take it off the carb bottom clean well and use a bit of epoxy inside it to keep it in place....
 
Thanks for the reply! I did try sealant and it helped it run a little longer, but eventually it would loosen up and break the sealant. Looking at a schematic for the motor, it looks like there are a couple of wedges that the screw goes into that holds the carb in place. Could those possibly cause an issue?
 
From looking at things more, it looks like the insulator sleeve has came loose as JamRacing1 mentioned earlier. Is there a good replacement carb that has a metal body? Sounds like this is a known issue with this particular carb. Would something like the mach 2 .26 work?
 
From looking at things more, it looks like the insulator sleeve has came loose as JamRacing1 mentioned earlier. Is there a good replacement carb that has a metal body? Sounds like this is a known issue with this particular carb. Would something like the mach 2 .26 work?


That isolator is there to keep engine heat away from the carburetor, just do as I said above and epoxy the insulator back on the carb base and it will be FIXED ...
 
JB Weld, or any decent epoxy outta work fine, just make sure not to get it all over anything but the isolator and wipe it clean then let dry......
 

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