SAD! Flux Motor Destroyed aft Crash! Help Recommend New One.

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J1A1H

Well-Known Member
Messages
967
Oh Guys... I'm so angry at the moment... (will keep my lanaguage to a minimum)

Yesterday, i took my newly built savage for its maiden voyage only to have a friend crash it at WOT on 4s into the only lamp post in the whole car park! This crash was a direct front smash!

I will get pics up
... but the main damage is that the motor has cracked and it looks like all the internals have been slammed forward and forced its way out of the case!!!

I am in the process of ripping it apart again and seeing the extent of the damage!
- Motor Broken
- Tie rods all broken
- Front metal plate (under plastic skid plate) has bent upwards.
- A arm hinge pins all broken
- 2 LiPo batteries destroyed
- One upright is broken (Tie rod ripped off the point is was connected too)

Looks like the motor is the big problem... I HOPE MY ESC hasn't GONE ASWELL!!!!!! This savage is one tough truck... I can understand why the motor would have broken.

If i connect my ESC Via the castle USB and it works... can i presume the ESC is operating?

Good news is that this DB-17 chassis by GCM has not bent at all!!! I COULDNT BELIEVE IT! I think it saved a lot of things in side the TVPS!
The strength of these TVPs in undeniable!

I Think i just carried out your first indestructable test. Not one scratch... no distorting of the chassis or anything! Your design of the skidplate didnt even pop out!!!

Tough savage! Only motor is gone....

ANYWAY THAT IS MY RANT OVER!!! SO ****ED OFF BUT IT WILL LIVE TO FIGHT ANOTHER DAY!


SO i need a new motor quickly... and my mate is going to pay for it.

I was going to upgrade to a tekin but its quite a bit of money at the moment and have found a second hand motor. Can you please give me your opinions on it before i buy it today!

I'm looking at a

Neu 1515 2.5D 1650kV Finned Brushless Motor. I can get it for around £100. it has 15 runs on it. Would it be worth it?
I really do need a new motor to get running again..

Also considering I'm now running 5s and 6s only... and i want to run higher gearing as the TVPs allow it easily. What i think i already know...
If you have a Savage Flux you will have to grind the motor clamps to fit this motor but it can be done. It will run cooler and with more torque than the 2200kV stock motor. It is also better for 5S/6S operation since the RPMs are in the 40k range. It also draws a bit less amps and doesn't stress the lipos as much. It is shorter than Castle/Tork 2200, but they are both 1515 versions. Maybe Castle motor only has a longer can. Shouldnt this also work with my Castle creations ESC? will i keep all the flexibility of using the USB aswell?

is this all true... Please help me out here. I can get hold of this motor but not for much longer.

Thank you

Josh
 
PICS OF THE CARNAGE:
motor destroyed...
IMG_0276.jpg

IMG_0277.jpg

IMG_0278.jpg

Some minor plastic bits
IMG_0279.jpg

Metal base plate and all a arm pins bent...
IMG_0280.jpg


ARGHHH HELP! just got this baby together and now its all apart again!
 
Wow - just wow.... Unfortunately i cant help with the electric stuff, but i have definately been in your shoes, i know how much it sucks!

Hang in there!

Bob
 
Trying to... Thanks for the boost... Ive been building this for the past 1 month... All in pieces... First outing with all new parts and takes a huge hit... Ive found my better camera, so will get better pics up and do a proper build up page now.

Please anyone with some electric expertise... What motor should i look at running. Is the one mentioned ideal for my setup?
 
The Nue Motors are getting some positive chatter out there.

just remember that in terms of rpm:

2200kv on 4s = 32,560 rpms
1850kv on 4s = 27,380 rpms

so if you run with the same 2s packs & keep your gearing the same your looking at 5,160 less rpms than you had before. :spiderman:
 
I'm only running 5 and 6s now.
i see what your saying about rpm... So i guess i would have more torque but less top speed. So using the Neu 1515 2.5D 1650kV wouuld give me less... But considering this motor... Couldnt i run this easily on say a 25T pinion and 39t idler gear and maintain my high speed runs and also have equivelent torque of the CC 2200kv motor? Shouldnt i aslo have less heat problems running higher cell cound?

THANKS
 
I would call Castle and talk to Jenny in repairs and see what she can do for you. That is a Castle 2200 so I am sure it wouldn't be a problem. I would stay with the 2200 imo.
 
ive had to learn the hard way... i never will let anyone run my car again... oh well... live and learn.

People are saying its better it's better to use a high geared low kv motor than a low geared high kv motor.many people don't seem to want to give much input. Maybe people are not very well experienced with aftermarket brushless motors?

I really need a motor... should i just buy this motor? I need a replacement asap, and they guy said this hasn't got much use. But what mount would i use??? the original mount cant go over the heat fins can they?

I also found out that i cant test my ESC because the wiring has been split! What should i do about this?

DSC00085.jpg


Would i have to resolder new wiring on it???

some clearer images

DSC00083.jpg

DSC00082.jpg


Also... this battery got flung out and scrapped along the road... Is it repairable? could i just cover the wire with tape properly?

DSC00084.jpg



THANKS... your help really is appreciated.
 
i hope your making the friend pay for all this.... that's alot of $$$ in damage right there.. id say this is the most expensive crash to date.

id just get another tork 2200 honestly, its a good motor and it fits in the motor mounts. most other motors you will have problems with that.
 
dang it no edit!....

you can resolder those wires for the esc. just make sure you connect the same colors together. and like i sad, get another tork 2200
 
You could redo that pack but I would take it fully apart and inspect everything first.

and be VERY careful. lipos are no joke. that sucks to see thats a lot of money. i agree with Bad, go with the tork, they are good motors, and your mounts are designed for it.
 
I think i will just go with the tork then...
I will take the battery apart and see if its ok... Should be fine i hope.

Does anyone know where i can get new wiring with the Receiver attachment to it so i can re solder the esc wiring?
 
how bad is the other side of the wiring that was cut off? you should be able to just strip the wire back put shrink tube on then twist the 2 ends together and solder. then take the shrink tube, pull it over the exposed wire and use a lighter shrink it....
 
its not bad... its possible to reconnect them... but i want an extended wire as i have a new idea of mounting the receiver and its a little too far from the esc.... What extended wiring would people get or where do i even buy them from? never something i have really looked for...
 
use a jr servo exstension once it is soldered. they come anywhere between 3" and 18" and are $5 or so. Avalible at almost all lhs
 

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