Recommendation for a new engine..

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SavagePower

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The only two engines that I know are in my price range are the Axial .28 and the Mach .28.

It's either going to be for my Savage or LST2.

I don't know which one to choose. Or maybe other alternatives in the price range?
 
Don't know much about the dynamite motors but I have heard good things. if you get that one be sure to do a review for us
 
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unless your trucks don't run at all i vote you save $5/week till you can get a lrp or picco.

trust me.
 
I've heard good things about LRP. I'm a big fan of axial .28s though. IMO I say pass on the picco.
 
i am having good luck with my axial .28 spec1s. no probs that wernt my fault ( i broke the carb running body off and found a rock) i have now just givin it a flow mod and it ruined a tranny. on another note savagecole runs a mach .28 and it is holding up well. he bought it used so we don't know how much fuel has been through it but it makes good power but not as much as my axial
 
The Force .28 holds a tune really well, starts easy and is cheap.

Force 28 is a stock rtr F4.6 ... its just branded HPI

The axial is a K4.6 same MFGR again.

Id go lrp or picco.. The mach 28 is made by SH and is also a "LRP" just spec 2
 
for 100 bucks the axial is good. i liked mine for a budget motor. i since passed it to my buddy and its still trashing hard. id buy another. but if you have the cast a picco is the way to go. i love mine.
 
ive had no issues with my Axial .28 ive had it about 6 months now, every one wants a pico and knows its a better mill but for the money Axial all the way, I'm buy ing two more one for my .25 and one as a back up. here is a vid of my .28 running maybe it will help you decide

 
This thread poses a good second question - how do you figure out what is a good motor? When putting them side-by-side, what are the specs to look at, other than just reputation?

Bob
 
I think bearing quality and things like that are a big factor that is not really advertised in any of these motors. Plus some I think have chrome inside the sleaves and some don't. Things like that make a big difference in the price and I think sometimes price is the only way to tell cause the sport mills aren't going to admit to using cheaper bearings, obviously. We need to get Robin to give a better answer for this question though.
 
This thread poses a good second question - how do you figure out what is a good motor? When putting them side-by-side, what are the specs to look at, other than just reputation?
Bob

IMO, sometimes the reputation will tell you a bit more than the specs. MikeK hit several nails on the head. Especially in terms of bearing quality, quality of internal materials, etc.

like for example, i love my F 4.6 but its a $100 mill. So when the bearings fail, it would make more sense to buy a better mill than put $70 bearings into this one.

LRP & Picco (while faster than the F4.6 out the box) already have better internals.

Its important to remember that everyone has their personal favourites. So if you use and love axials, then stick with them.

If you wanna upgrade, spend a bit more and try something different with better internals & perhaps a bit more power, then there are other good choices out there.

I think bearing quality and things like that are a big factor that is not really advertised in any of these motors. Plus some I think have chrome inside the sleaves and some don't. Things like that make a big difference in the price and I think sometimes price is the only way to tell cause the sport mills aren't going to admit to using cheaper bearings, obviously. We need to get Robin to give a better answer for this question though.
 
IMO, sometimes the reputation will tell you a bit more than the specs. MikeK hit several nails on the head. Especially in terms of bearing quality, quality of internal materials, etc.

like for example, i love my F 4.6 but its a $100 mill. So when the bearings fail, it would make more sense to buy a better mill than put $70 bearings into this one.

LRP & Picco (while faster than the F4.6 out the box) already have better internals.

Its important to remember that everyone has their personal favourites. So if you use and love axials, then stick with them.

If you wanna upgrade, spend a bit more and try something different with better internals & perhaps a bit more power, then there are other good choices out there.

Quoted for emphasis
 
There is a reason I won't mod axial/k or sport engines, here are some reasons why.

The stock bearings are junk, I have seen them let go in under a gallon.
The con rods are not as strong as others and the bushings are a little soft.
The sleeve is chrome plated but it is not very strong plating and wears out too fast.
The piston is cast aluminum, then machined for fitment, the material is soft and another reason they break-in and die so fast.
The crank is not balanced very well and has poor tolerance specs in regards to the block which will cause the famous front bearing leak.
The block is weak and has a tendency to break with hard hits.
Bushing in the back plate is soft and starts to leak early in life.
Needles fall out of the carb from factory.
Timing specs are never the same, some come with very weak timing #'s and other with better #'s, it's a crap shoot to get the "good one".

There is a reason an axial/k can break-in in under 8 tanks, that proves the point of cheap materials when a better engine takes a gallon + sometimes two. There are 10 dead axials/k for every one that lasts over a 5 gallons.

LRP, Nova and Picco's don't suffer from the above mentioned. Most have billet high silicone content pistons, superior chrome plating, high quality bearings, tough blocks etc. In the end it's what you like and can afford.

Just my experience from years of observation, take it as you will.
 
There is a reason I won't mod axial/k or sport engines, here are some reasons why.

The stock bearings are junk, I have seen them let go in under a gallon.
The con rods are not as strong as others and the bushings are a little soft.
The sleeve is chrome plated but it is not very strong plating and wears out too fast.
The piston is cast aluminum, then machined for fitment, the material is soft and another reason they break-in and die so fast.
The crank is not balanced very well and has poor tolerance specs in regards to the block which will cause the famous front bearing leak.
The block is weak and has a tendency to break with hard hits.
Bushing in the back plate is soft and starts to leak early in life.
Needles fall out of the carb from factory.
Timing specs are never the same, some come with very weak timing #'s and other with better #'s, it's a crap shoot to get the "good one".

There is a reason an axial/k can break-in in under 8 tanks, that proves the point of cheap materials when a better engine takes a gallon + sometimes two. There are 10 dead axials/k for every one that lasts over a 5 gallons.

LRP, Nova and Picco's don't suffer from the above mentioned. Most have billet high silicone content pistons, superior chrome plating, high quality bearings, tough blocks etc. In the end it's what you like and can afford.

Just my experience from years of observation, take it as you will.

So buy a picco :moon::10::bolt:
 
So buy a picco :moon::10::bolt:

picco.jpg
 
I wasn't preaching Picco, there are a lot of other engines that are better. Until you run one of them you will be happy with what you have, once you do upgrade, you will never go back.
 
i think its a cost issue for him. every thread that starts with someone not having the money for a top quality mill turns into a pico thread, don't get me wrong i want a pico but i am happy with my axial for the price, now can we give this guy our honest advise as to wich motor for his price range.
 
i think its a cost issue for him. every thread that starts with someone not having the money for a top quality mill turns into a pico thread, don't get me wrong i want a pico but i am happy with my axial for the price, now can we give this guy our honest advise as to wich motor for his price range.

that comes down to money Mite.. 100 twice or 170 once for the same amount of use...
 
that comes down to money Mite.. 100 twice or 170 once for the same amount of use...

i understand bank piccos are kick but. but the question was not about a picco this happend to me when i first got on HPISF. every one was shouting picco. well i did not have the money or paitence to save for a picco. Now if his question was should i buy a picco or a axial i would say picco all the way and have it modded while your at it. but if this guy dose not have the cash what would we reccomend. i say Axial because i have had no issues with mine what so ever.
 
i understand bank piccos are kick but. but the question was not about a picco this happend to me when i first got on HPISF. every one was shouting picco. well i did not have the money or paitence to save for a picco. Now if his question was should i buy a picco or a axial i would say picco all the way and have it modded while your at it. but if this guy dose not have the cash what would we reccomend. i say Axial because i have had no issues with mine what so ever.

All I'm saying is save and buy one or buy a axial and start saving for #2. it is the identical mill thats in the Xss. They can be had under 100 if you look.

2nd mill is a bump Robin
 
ya the sh m28 p3 engine is a complete beast, tons of low end power and not bad top end either,has been easy to tune and has held its tune for months lol and there under $100 on ebay at times,as been said before the sh is the exact same engine as the LRP 28 spec 2 engines which are the older version and also identical to the xtm 457 engines........
 
i think its a cost issue for him. every thread that starts with someone not having the money for a top quality mill turns into a pico thread, don't get me wrong i want a pico but i am happy with my axial for the price, now can we give this guy our honest advise as to wich motor for his price range.

My advice don't get any more honest dan dat. VVV

i love my F 4.6 but its a $100 mill. So when the bearings fail, it would make more sense to buy a better mill than put $70 bearings into this one.

LRP & Picco (while faster than the F4.6 out the box) already have better internals.

Its important to remember that everyone has their personal favourites. So if you use and love axials, then stick with them.

If you wanna upgrade, spend a bit more and try something different with better internals & perhaps a bit more power, then there are other good choices out there.

In addition, from what ive seen and ran, at the $100.00 price range (Axial, K4.6, F4.6, K4.6ho), none of these mills stand out from their crowd. If there are advantages, then they are minimal and don't jump out at ya.
The only one i own from that list is the F4.6 which i like, but would never buy (it came with my rtr).

My other mill is a picco. there is no comparison. saved a little at a time and ran my usable k4.6ho & f4.6 while i saved.

Robin is right; i will never waste $100.00 again. ever.

So there you have it, although i Recommended $100.00 mills, id strongly urge you to save your money over the winter months if you are able so you don't have to buy one.

:peace:
 

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