Rear Tie Rod Eliminators

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TeeWX

Member
Messages
36
I do not remember exactly where I saw this but I cannot take credit for it as I was not the first to do this. However I thought I would post this as it may be a useful mod for anyone racing who wants to shed a little weight or stiffen up their rear end a little. Since I had plenty of spare parts and these only cost $4.79 on tower for a set I figured why not. A cool thing about this as well is you could even do this with broken hubs, depending on how badly they are damaged.

These are the stock ones up front.
022609_133301.jpg


Note: If you do NOT have any spares I suggest you do not do this to your good ones because if you mess up you will not be able to run your truck until they are replaced. Also, if you do not have adjustable upper A arms DO NOT attempt this, you will find out why later.

Basically what you are giong to do here is take two stock hpi upright hubs and modify them to run upsidedown on the C hub on both sides of the truck. I would suggest a dremel for this as you will want to take even material off of both sides until you can just barely fit the hub on. I would actually suggest leaving a little extra material on the ends so that you have to push a little to get them to bolt in so there is no play. You are going to want each side to be as equal to the other as you can so that your toe is not off.

Now for the reason you want to have adjustable upper A Arms. The problem I noticed with this mod is that your hubs are not going to sit normal because they just aren't designed to be run upside-down. So you'll need to adjust your upper A Arms out a little bit so that your camber is set at 0 or slightly negative, whichever you prefer. I like to run mine a little negative. The biggest set back of having to do this is that your dogbones will now have slightly more room to move around.

Here is a picture of how far this will allow the dog-bones to move towards the end of the cup. I do not think this is going to hurt. But if my dog bones ever pop out or my cups break in a strange way I will definately post pics of it.
022609_135600.jpg


Now for some pictures of the final product.
022609_133200.jpg


022609_133201.jpg


022609_133300.jpg


Here are the Pro's and Con's I have found from this so far.

PROS:
-Eliminates Rear Tie Rods
-Removes Play from Rear Suspension
-Slightly Lighter than a Stock Setup
-Costs only $4.79 a side or free if you have spares


CONS
-Driveshafts have more play in the Rear
-You can't re-use the hubs anywhere else
-Possibly weaker then aftermarket aluminum
-You have to use adjustable upper a-arms and adjust them out a bit.


Basically I did this as a test for myself and I did this write-up for anyone who might find this useful or not. Once again I am not the first one to do this but I could not find any write-ups about it so use any of this info to your own risk and make your own judgement on if this is worth it or not.

Feel free to post any feedback you have or if you have done this or seen it done and how well it worked out. I will continue running this until I have problems or machine my own 1 piece eliminators out of 7075. However, I do not want to hear any stories about how your girlfriends brothers dogs mothers trainer that did this to his savage and his engine blew up or something else rediculous because of it. Unless you have pictures ;).
My golden rule is "Screenshot, or it Didn't Happen!"

Thanks for Reading. (Unless you just looked at the pictures :p)
 
Cool Post Tee! Thanks for the share.

Did you try shimming the axles to get rid of the play you listed as a con?
Why the camber? This will affect the savage at the track. Keep playing with it and see if you can get it back in. Can I get a pick with the rear tires on to see how much positive camber it has?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Update:

I have an update here for anyone who wants to see the camber adjustment differences. Basically you have less positive adjustment and more negative adjustment but you are still able to achieve 0. I'm not sure why you would want to run positive camber anyways :p.

Zero
Savage-Zero1.jpg


Savage-Zero2.jpg


Negative
Savage-Negative.jpg


Sorry for the horrible negative picture :puke:
 
It looked as if it was positive by the hubs and -2 is best at the track for the rear. You had posted the con -You have to use adjustable upper a-arms and adjust them out a bit. So I thought you meant it was positive. looks good!
 
i have now done this mod to my sidewinder and with a little careful fileing i got a little bit of toe in by removing more material from the front of the upright than the rear. i also put a 1/16th of an inch of fuel line in each cup to center the dogbone and eliminate the extra play
 
How well does this mod hold up to bashing? I have had more problems with my tie rods than I care to count and love DIY fixes. If this holds up well then I know what my next project is and I can save the $30 for the Integy part.
 
How well does this mod hold up to bashing? I have had more problems with my tie rods than I care to count and love DIY fixes. If this holds up well then I know what my next project is and I can save the $30 for the Integy part.

nice to see ya back kidd!!!
 
OK I broke down and did this mod. Pretty easy and straight forward to do. The only negative I found was the extra wiggle room that the drive shaft has, but that is easily remedied with some fuel tubing stuffed in the cups. You will need to be mindful of your cuts so you can factor in your toe in. A little patience and test fits and I was able to get what appears to be -2 degree toe in.

After doing the mod, I took my savage out and beat it like it owed me money. Bad landings, cart wheels, just plain hard landings on the rear end and everything on that end of the truck was flawless. Had to stop testing since I broke a front drive shaft with a bad back flip landing LOL

FINALLY no more tie rods popping off for no apparent reason!!!!! And it only cost me alittle time. I love it and props to TeeWX for sharing. I liked it so much I added a link in my siggy :beer:
 
I do not remember exactly where I saw this but I cannot take credit for it as I was not the first to do this. However I thought I would post this as it may be a useful mod for anyone racing who wants to shed a little weight or stiffen up their rear end a little. Since I had plenty of spare parts and these only cost $4.79 on tower for a set I figured why not. A cool thing about this as well is you could even do this with broken hubs, depending on how badly they are damaged.

These are the stock ones up front.
022609_133301.jpg


Note: If you do NOT have any spares I suggest you do not do this to your good ones because if you mess up you will not be able to run your truck until they are replaced. Also, if you do not have adjustable upper A arms DO NOT attempt this, you will find out why later.

Basically what you are giong to do here is take two stock hpi upright hubs and modify them to run upsidedown on the C hub on both sides of the truck. I would suggest a dremel for this as you will want to take even material off of both sides until you can just barely fit the hub on. I would actually suggest leaving a little extra material on the ends so that you have to push a little to get them to bolt in so there is no play. You are going to want each side to be as equal to the other as you can so that your toe is not off.

Now for the reason you want to have adjustable upper A Arms. The problem I noticed with this mod is that your hubs are not going to sit normal because they just aren't designed to be run upside-down. So you'll need to adjust your upper A Arms out a little bit so that your camber is set at 0 or slightly negative, whichever you prefer. I like to run mine a little negative. The biggest set back of having to do this is that your dogbones will now have slightly more room to move around.

Here is a picture of how far this will allow the dog-bones to move towards the end of the cup. I do not think this is going to hurt. But if my dog bones ever pop out or my cups break in a strange way I will definately post pics of it.
022609_135600.jpg


Now for some pictures of the final product.
022609_133200.jpg


022609_133201.jpg


022609_133300.jpg


Here are the Pro's and Con's I have found from this so far.

PROS:
-Eliminates Rear Tie Rods
-Removes Play from Rear Suspension
-Slightly Lighter than a Stock Setup
-Costs only $4.79 a side or free if you have spares


CONS
-Driveshafts have more play in the Rear
-You can't re-use the hubs anywhere else
-Possibly weaker then aftermarket aluminum
-You have to use adjustable upper a-arms and adjust them out a bit.


Basically I did this as a test for myself and I did this write-up for anyone who might find this useful or not. Once again I am not the first one to do this but I could not find any write-ups about it so use any of this info to your own risk and make your own judgement on if this is worth it or not.

Feel free to post any feedback you have or if you have done this or seen it done and how well it worked out. I will continue running this until I have problems or machine my own 1 piece eliminators out of 7075. However, I do not want to hear any stories about how your girlfriends brothers dogs mothers trainer that did this to his savage and his engine blew up or something else rediculous because of it. Unless you have pictures ;).
My golden rule is "Screenshot, or it Didn't Happen!"

Thanks for Reading. (Unless you just looked at the pictures :p)
There was reading??? oh, thats what that tex at the bottom of the pictures was! Thanks though, i try it tomorrow!
 
I don't mean to bring this thread back from the dead...

But this is a great mod if done right! I have saved cash on getting the integy deletes, and this is actually a very solid setup.
Just take your time with the filing and get it right so there is the right toe in or what ever your looking for. Lots of test fits but worth the time!

This will do me till i save the pennies for the RSC Conversion!
Nice 1!

P.S. Dragin... i too have a little play on the drive shafts which probably wont cause any problems, but regarding your fuel tube in the shafts.

Do you literally mean just placing some tube between the drive shaft and the inside of the cup? Does the tubing not come out?
Would appreciate some pics if possible...
Thanks

Josh
 
Yes, I just took a piece of tubing and put it in between the cup and the ball. I actually did both ends for the least amount of play but still allow free movement of the suspension range. No binding and no dropping dog bones. The only way it could be any better is if the dog bones were just alittle longer so no tubing would be needed. I have had no problems at all.
 

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