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rear bearing
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Defiantspaz
Active Member
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- 105
Check the crankcase where the outer race of the bearing sits for burs. If there are no burs then your crankcase has a really tight fitting rear bearing seat. You may need to put the bearing in a ziplock bag and leave it in the freezer for a while to make it contract.
The key to an interfrearance fit is finding the point at which the bearing slides in freely, don't try to force it. If it doesn't fit put the bearing back into the freezer and heat up the crankcase only when you are getting ready to remove the bearing from the freezer to install it.
Don't use emerycloth or any other abrasive to remove crankcase material to make the bearing fit! Once the mill reachs operating temps while driving the rear bearing will loosen up and start to walk. This walking will gall the race seat and ruin the mill.
Be patient with the heating and cooling and you will get it right.
The key to an interfrearance fit is finding the point at which the bearing slides in freely, don't try to force it. If it doesn't fit put the bearing back into the freezer and heat up the crankcase only when you are getting ready to remove the bearing from the freezer to install it.
Don't use emerycloth or any other abrasive to remove crankcase material to make the bearing fit! Once the mill reachs operating temps while driving the rear bearing will loosen up and start to walk. This walking will gall the race seat and ruin the mill.
Be patient with the heating and cooling and you will get it right.
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Defiantspaz
Active Member
- Messages
- 105
You found burs, ok. If you have a small round file or some really fine emery cloth try to just remove the burs and not too much extra material. After removing the burs flush the crankcase with fuel to remove and metal shavings and dust created by the filing/sanding. Be very carefull not to remove too much extra metal.
To flush use your fill bottle and pour the fuel in from the front bearing flowing out the back of the crankcase. Do not flush toward the front bearing or it will catch the debris and fail.
To flush use your fill bottle and pour the fuel in from the front bearing flowing out the back of the crankcase. Do not flush toward the front bearing or it will catch the debris and fail.
Last edited by a moderator:
Defiantspaz
Active Member
- Messages
- 105
Yup, you can do the same with the sleave. Basically any thing that is metal will work with the hot to expand and cold to contract method. Just be sure to put anything you do this with inside of a plastic bag to keep both the part and your freezer clean.
Good to hear the rear bearing went in ok. Patience is the most important thing when dealing with ball bearings and seating them correctly. Sure you can just pound them in but their life will be short and destructive.
Good to hear the rear bearing went in ok. Patience is the most important thing when dealing with ball bearings and seating them correctly. Sure you can just pound them in but their life will be short and destructive.
DOOBEEWHA
HPISF languist expert
- Messages
- 1,332
- Location
- Petaluma,Ca,
Great info, DS. Have you had any experience with P&P?
Defiantspaz
Active Member
- Messages
- 105
Yes a little. I mostly just clean up and burs and make sure all the ports have no imperfections in the port lines. Buff it all up with Neverdull and I'm done. I haven't experimented with increasing the size of the ports yet.
DOOBEEWHA
HPISF languist expert
- Messages
- 1,332
- Location
- Petaluma,Ca,
I just thought I'd ask since it appears you have good info with anything that come your way. I think that's something I would enjoy getting into at some point. To be involved, with engine mods, and such.
