RB modded STS .28 probs>>>

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PhilBurr

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Hey everyone, I just got an RB modded STS .28, and put it in my Savage. I can't get it to start!! I prme the engine, put a charged glow igniter on the plug and start pullin and NADA. Just raw fuel coming out the tailpipe?? I can run over to RB mods(he lives just down the road from me) but I thought I would ask you guys first, I would like to start the break in tonight. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Absolutey- talk with Ricky Brake and get him to go over it with ya. Are you using a hot plug for break in? Did you warm the engine up to around 200 like a heat gun, crack the plug make sure your ignitor is fully charged check your setting HSN LSN by chance did you seal it up? Just a few ideas to get ya going. By all means ask him what he thinks and let us know. See what he says about the gallon break in period as well
 
Keep us posted what did you end up doing....


I have to comment and threads like this, PLEAESE keep us posted on stuff.
if you don't then its a meaningless thread and warrants NO HELP AT ALL!

PLEASE PEOPLE!!!!!!!!!
 
DANG.....What a luxury that must be.....

Rick brake...just a round the block..

I'd be there everyday pestering the tar out of him to give me job at his shop just so I could learn his mastery.

PhillBurr, you can be our man on the inside,lol Get your butt OVER there and fill out a job app.
 
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Sorry for the late response, I've been on vacation. I talked to Rick before I left and he told me to lean out the HSN 2 turns, and lean out the LSN 1 turn. This did the trick as far as getting it started, however now I have to work on keeping it idling.(Minor i'm sure) As far the gallon break in he told me to idle a couple of tanks through it, then antoher 3 or for at half throttle driving making sure to blip the throttle so it breaks in equally through the RPM range. Then drive it how you like but do not start leaning it out until you have about a gallon through it. O yeah, always make sure piston is at BDC when off and cooling. When I get back from vacation i'll work on it some more and report back. Sorry again for the late respone.

Phil
 
Sounds like he just told you to do a normal breakin basicly. I am surprised that he did not give you some highly complicated breakin requireing you to stand on your head while starting the motor and whistling i'm a little tea pot. Some of the breakin stuff I have read sounds that bad. I guess it is basicly just a matter of always going to btc and makeing sure there is lots of oil for the first gal or so. Makes sense. Nice slow coolish breakin should make for a stronger sleeve piston, and a smoother seal between the two. I am surprised however that you had to lean them that far just to tune them. That thing must move some serious fuel after the mods.
 
Yea...Thanks PhillBur!
When Rick Break speaks, People best listen.
His remarks on the break-in do sound abit normal, but he does confirm the inportance of a 1 gal. break-in process for the tighter, spec.3 racing type mills for sure.

There are some modders out there that would even suggest 1 1/2 gals.

I'm running a k4.6 and is considered to be in the RTR class of mills.
In my opinion,..."For those of us who are in the RTR classed mills, a 1/2 gal. break-in is a little orver-kill on the fuel amount, but it can't hurt anything, as it REASURES a good break-in and engine lifespan".

===============================Keep us posted on your progress, PhillBur...And good luck.==================================
 
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I used the "heat cycle" break in for my RB modded STS. It takes alot longer to do but it seems to be less stressfull of the new tight pinch STS's.

I talked to Rick and he also said not to change the head shims after breakin like most STS owners recomend, mine has 2 copper and 1 silver shim. I asked him about going to 1 copper and 1 silver because that is what most people say to do and he said not to mess with them.

Rick also said to run a hot plug, MC-59 or similiar, to get the most out of the modded STS's.
 
Thank You very much for that informative post. Defiantspaz.
Trusting your source on this one, BIG TIME!

I'm still learning about shims and thier roll in the break-in process. It add's yet another element to the nitro experience.

You have a good opportunity to learn from a truely innovative force in the Nitro modders Round Table, so to speak.

Thank you again for your submisson. It will go along way.

=========================And keep keep'in us posted, DefiantS=============================
 
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Defiantspaz said:
I used the "heat cycle" break in for my RB modded STS. It takes alot longer to do but it seems to be less stressfull of the new tight pinch STS's.

I talked to Rick and he also said not to change the head shims after breakin like most STS owners recomend, mine has 2 copper and 1 silver shim. I asked him about going to 1 copper and 1 silver because that is what most people say to do and he said not to mess with them.

Rick also said to run a hot plug, MC-59 or similiar, to get the most out of the modded STS's.
Click to expand...

on my next sts I WONT BE TOUCHING THE SHIMMS !!! even tho it does say in the sts manual do remove shimms after brake in so IDK !
 
I know that everyone says to drop down to 1 copper and 1 silver head shim for the STS 30 after break in is completed. I run Trinity monster power 30% fuel and Rick suggested that I go with Byrons or Odonnell instead.

Maybe the head shim issue is due to the mods that are done to the mill.
 
What does rick say about the shims?
O'donnel fuel is good stuff but, can be costly. what's the motor worth to you?
 
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I believe you said that he wanted you leave them be, correct?
If so, I would not experiment with it. He's smart enough to know where your at with it, and doesn't want you yo have any senseless problems to show up.

Dude.... Your going to have more power than you ever dreamed of so, no need for that extra tweak to risk it, right?
 
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Well my entire experience with the RB modded STS D30M is that first,

It didn't come with the backplate screws loctited, the damn backplate came completely loose during the blipping part of the heat cycle break in. I e-mailed Rick to let him know about the issue and he said he has had too many customers break the back plate screws so now he doesn't loctite them anymore.

After re-installing the screws with blue loctite and sealing the STS with Peratex ultra Copper I was having issues with stupid high temps with little or no power. I e-mailed Rick again and he said that after break in the temps would drop some.

After break in I e-mailed Rick again because now my carb needles were wandering. The LSN is the worst. drive the truck for 2 minutes and the LSN leans itself out, bad too. he recommended that i use a little bit of the Peratex to stop the needles from moving, I was like WTF! needless to say I bought new O-rings instead.

My issue is running way too hot, I sent Rick what i have done to the engine so far.

OS A3 plug
1 copper and 1 silver head shim
Trinity MHP 30%
STS 0702 pipe
HPI Savage airfilter

Rick's reply: Get rid of that fuel, You will loose a engine fast on that stuff. Good for cleaning air filters only. Buy Byrons, Mugen, Odonnell. Leave the head shimming alon and go back to what was on it when it came from me. Here is a list of everything wrong
A3 glow plugs
Improper head shimming
Nasty fuel

In a previous post that I must have erased Rick told me most of my heat issues were from the A3 plug. OS has it listed as a ground plug BUT Rick said it is an aircraft plug and to go with the McCoy MC-59 plug.

I am going to switch to a 9mm HPI K4.6HO carb on the STS 30 to solve the wandering needle issue. I'll let you know how it works out.
 
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I would like to say some comments, based on what I've read from those who own and opperate higher end STS mills.

This includes persons you've reffered to, and combine it with with some good o'l common-sense.
On STS Engines, Do A COMPLETE SEAL after a good INSPECTION. If it's an RB modded ANYTHING, LISTEN AND FOLLOW RICK"S INSTRUCTIONS.

YOU HAVE A RACING MOTOR. LET RICK BE YOUR ONLY GUIDE HERE. He shouldn't object to a proper sealing of the engine. If you don't know how, ask Rick to guide you.

If possible, USE THE SUPPLIES HE SUGGESTS, and IF HE SAID, DON"T REMOVE HEAD SHIMS, THEN DON"T REMOVE HEAD SHIMS. RICK IS MORE IN TUNE WITH HIS OWN MODDED PRODUCT THAN ANYONE YOU MAY KNOW.
So, try not to rush it. If you follow Rick's guidance to the letter, then you can say, you followed his instructions to the letter. He'll be more likely to give you the attention you need, and help you follow through your process.

If you change course, and start listening to others, then you start gambling with your progress. CONSIDER YOUR ENGINE A RICK BRAKE MOTOR FIRST, and an STS, SECOND.
If you can't TRUST RICK ON HIS OWN PRODUCT, then how CAN YOU TRUST ANYONE ELSE.

I know this may seem insensitive and frustrating to read. Don't take it that way, PLEASE. Your going to have some fun with engine.
The capitalized words here are just my way of highlighting the things that I want the reader to remember in reccolection.

So..No need to take a chance with too many cooks in the kitchen.

Keep seeking Rick's guidance.....

===========================And you'll know you made the right decision.==========================
Good Luck, DS.
 
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its very well for somebody to reccomend a brand/% of fuel to you, but sometimes yoru options are limited.

eg i can pretty much only get a hold of 20 & 25% tornado and 20% model teknics big bang (which i wont be going back to anytime soon). for me to obtain another brand of fuel entails way over the top postage costs which, as the fuel costs soo much in the first place, are unjustifiable.

its easy to say don't stray from the instructions, but not always possible to do

imo if an engine has to be ran in in such as precise manner that any slight detail done different will damage the engine, then the engine at the end of the day cant be 'that' great. just my opinion
 
I'm sorry to here that.
Your right about not being in the other guy's shoes and all. Location in this hobby effects many and we all need to be aware of that, without assumption.

I hope that Defiantspaz manage's to get the most out of his efforts. The motor he chose has a need for a different break-in procedure than our average RTR.
This lends to the "know it all" problem.

Thats why I felt a little driven to help with some straight talk, and hopefully spare Defiant of some disapointment down the road with his motor.
But I definately see your point and will keep in mind that if your not having fun with it, then what's it all worth?

===========================Thanks for your point of view, Polystyrene.================================
 
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If I can make some additional suggestions on your carb issues D.S.
The needles. They are notorious for "walking" in thier threading on STS carbs.

I think what happens due to the fact that the o-rings and seals, have to survive the durration of a proper break-in. This excellerates the ware and drying out of rubber.
The engine, and it's componnents, get these conditions of heat cycling, and sleeve seating, to season with. This will reveal the symptoms, of a less than well built product, in general.

I'm talking about loose bolts, nuts, leaky & loose seals, walking needles, fowled plugs, ect, ect. This can occure while a normal break-in takes place.
Weather your using the best supplies or not, checking all metal the metal threading and using blue thread lock will help stop the loose bolt issues from disturbing your break-in.

Granted, It is best to be using the recommended fuels, plugs, and such. But, your still going to need some preparation for a reliable engine seal. With STS's, sealing the engine is top priority.(so I've been told).
They don't get shipped in a well sealed condition, ever.

Durring all the over-rich heat-cycling, crank vibrating needle tweaking, the engine that was tight, is now likely to become loose.

I say this again as a generality.
The point to all this is?.... Getting your engine properly sealed BEFORE you break it in is a good move on all engines. But STS, even more so.

NEEDLES: Teflon pipe tape on threads only.

Green Slime on O-rings. RTV hightemp-nitromethane compliant silicon seal for sealing the crankcase rear plate, heat sink Head, carb flute, carb lock assembly.

If you can do this in the beginning, you will be insuring a less troublesome break-in and will be very likely to have Zero issues with tunning. (in general)

========================= Ckeck our fourum for "Sealing an Engine" Tutorial========================
 
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I'll let you know tomorrow!! I'm still on vacation, driving home with a 3 year old and a 4 month old:duh: So when I get home tomorrow I'm gonna fire her up, I'll keep you guys posted......


Phil
 
?

How much nitro should i run threw my axial28 for breakin? It says 3 tanks at half throtle !!
 
Blipping

i ordered the sts.30 rb modded version and i had some questions so i called rick. i asked him about blipping during break in and he said absolutely not that it would cause the rod to stretch. i thought i would put that in here because someone was talking about blipping.
 
Hmmmmmm........ Thats a new one on me.
Sure there wasn't any mis-understanding? That goes against alot of break-in approaches...

In what context did he say that in? Is he speaking of his engines, primarily?
Are we talking just the first two tanks, or something?
What about a slow rev instead of a blip?

We need more to go on here before that one flies.
I have a clear respect for Ricks word, but that one comes as a curve ball... Sure could use some more detals on that one, Carage79.
 
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i asked him if he had a different method for breaking in his modded version of the sts.30 engine he went on to explain how he would like to see them broke in and then i asked him what he thought about blipping during break-in and he said something to the effect of no, it'll stretch out the rod. i was just asking about the modded sts.30. i was a little unclear on some things he said, but he definitely said no blipping it'll stretch out the rod. i think he was only saying not to do it during break-in. he said use a mc59 hot plug for break-in and medium to hot after break-in, idle 4 tanks of fuel through it, keep the temps between 220-250 and never run over 250. no wot until until you have ran 1 gallon through it.
 
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Thank you for your reply carnage79.
The additional info helpped some and is good to know. I still would like to get the specifics on his remark on this, in regards to how it applies to all mills in general, or just a racing mill, ect.

Thanks again for sharing what you could, carage97.

Hmmm.. 1 gallon without a blip? That deserves an investigation into his full view on the subject. That leaves alot of un-answered questions in my break-in approach.

If you happen to speak with him again on the subject, maybe you'll find out what he can add to this statement.

Like, break-in bench, heat cycles, and such. Get more out of him in this area.

S.J. posted an Up Date to Rick's methods a week back or so and I don't recall the blip comment ever being excluded.
 
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Quote: philbur
Sorry for the late response, I've been on vacation.
I talked to Rick before I left and he told me to lean out the HSN 2 turns, and lean out the LSN 1 turn.
This did the trick as far as getting it started, however now I have to work on keeping it idling.(Minor i'm sure)

As far the gallon break in he told me to idle a couple of tanks through it, then antoher 3 or for at half throttle driving making sure to blip the throttle so it breaks in equally through the RPM range.

Then drive it how you like but do not start leaning it out until you have about a gallon through it. O yeah, always make sure piston is at BDC when off and cooling.
When I get back from vacation i'll work on it some more and report back. Sorry again for the late respone.



Doobeewha: Note the remark regarding the blip method here. Did Rick change his mind about blipping,? This is where the confusion started for me, carnage97.
 
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Maybe I misunderstood him but I thought that is what he told me, and what I did and have not had any problems, but if tht is what he told carange then maybe I misunderstood him, I can double check and let you know.
 
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