Pull start or Roto start?

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Keithv

Keithv

Well-Known Member
Messages
661
Location
NY
I was having a problem with breaking OWB's. So i picked up the OWB replacement that has the lock nut on the shaft instead of the OWB. Only problem now is I cracked 2 roto plates, just the plastic not the gears. I'm guessing it because of the engine compression? I was thinking about trying a pull start but it does take a while to start the engine now with the roto so I'm not sure if a pull start is a smart idea. If you guys have any ideas or thoughts about it or know how to get this 4.6RTR mill to start any easier Id appreciate it.
Thanks.
Oh, and the engine is only a few months old. I got it in August and have about 2 gallons through it so far, and still haven't gotten it tuned perfectly yet. I have to adjust it everytime I run the truck.
 
ROTO START!

I had a pull start on my truck and took it off after about 10mins.......

even with the roto start my motor takes a while to start and pulling on a pull start with just aggravate you.........just my .02
 
I agree roto start all the way. I had a pull start at first and it was so annoying to start. Then I pulled the string to far a few times and my pull start broke. I grabbed a roto start and haven't looked back.
 
I beleive I've heard something about loosening the glow plug a little to relieve some compression. As soon as it starts, tighten it back up. Hope that helps. Once again guys, chime in if I'm lying.
 
You can debate this for ever, but heres my .02. Pull start all the way. We don't use no stinkin "sissy sticks". With a roto you cant feel the motor to see whats happening with it-has it got too much fuel, not enough, are you hydro locking-you with me? Once you get your motor tuned right she'll start right away. My Axial 32 will start within 5 pulls and I've won bets on it. If you have too much compression (not a bad thing) do the plug thing where you loosen it a turn and tighten it when it fires. Good luck man.
 
don't get me wrong, my 2 buggies had pull starts and I loved it.........but my STS doesn't like to start up but once it starts its good to go....that is if you get it started in the first place
 
Thanks for the input. Glad to see I'm not the only one that has trouble getting this HPI mill started. I have a .18 Infinity in my 1/10th on road car and that thing starts in 4 or 5 pulls every time. I'm just getting tired of replacing parts on this engine. I think Ive sunk more into parts for it already then the whole truck cost. HPI has been good about replacing stuff but I think thats running out. I'm going to try loosening the plug and see it that helps. I completely shattered a roto start casing the other day, again I'm suspecting the compression. And I cant get this mill to keep a tune. I had it adjusted nicely for a while and now its all out of wack again. I had it out this afternoon and before I knew it the temp was over 300 again. Nothing is showing any signs of wear besides the backplate, OWB, and the roto start case but I don't know how long its going to last at those temps.
Anyone have any suggestions on how to reinforce the back plate where the roto start screws attach? I snapped 2 of the 3 and just about stripped out the 3rd. I'm thinking a new mill might be in the near future at this rate.
 
The LHS recomended to run O'Donnel's 30% because it is very consistant fuel. I don't want to start a debate on fuel, I've had no problems with it other than sticky residue. I'm just saying maybe you need to pick a better fuel. The guy that helps me out localy is very knowledgeable and sponsered by a major brand. My engine ran like a champ till I decided to mod it myself. Stock X F4.6 mind you. Just my thoughts. If it's a F4.6 and you want to offload it, let me know, I need the parts to build mine back up.
 
I have a stock mill as well. I'm running OD's 30% now. I just picked up a gallon of trinity 30% that Ill be trying when I finish off this last quart of ODs. I just wish I knew why this thing is so hard to start.
 
If the engine is tuned properly it should start right away like said earlier. Now if the engine is fresh they take some time and pull hard due to a very tight pinch. I am all for the pull start as it much less to carry around since you don't have the heavy clunky rolo in your hand because there is no clip on it. The pull starts can cause trouble as the string will brake in time but the OWB go out with the rolo so who knows whats really more durable.

With the pull start all I have to carry is my igniter and a flat screw driver and occasionally my temp gun.

Each to there own here thought as this is just a personal preferance item. Now Traxxas has it figgured out with there electric start because its all in one unit(starter & igniter) and it even has a belt clip.
 
Yes but that just adds extra weight......and more stuff that can break, friend has a revo and he took all his electric starting stuff off because of it breaking.......

basically its an extra electric motor and also the ignitor stuff gets ripped off quite easily also........
 
I don't know about that as I have a T-maxx and my brother has 2 T-Maxx's which he has had for over 2 years and both are hard core bashers and he has never had a problem with breaking anything as far as the starter other than when we were playing in some puddles and he went to start it and the motor was shorted. There is also a problem in the hand box with the pins pushing out but can easily be fixed with a pick.

The Revo is a very weak truck and brakes very easily. It is a great racer however.

Just speaking from my experiences.
 
Maybe my friend just had a dud, I don't know but I know he went to ps and hasn't looked back.
 
PULL START
when u think about it if u have da car tuned well da car starts almost every time(well i know mine will) and all u have 2 hold wen u have a pull start is da glow starter if u have a roto start u have 2 hold dat and the glowstarter i like da pull start for ease
 
The reason I was thinking about putting the pull start on is because I keep breaking OWB's and now the roto plate itself. I figured the pull start wouldnt cause as much damage. My truck is still kinda hard to start though so the pull start could be a problem.. Just not sure which way to go. Do any of you put gas in the carb prior to starting? I have a 1/10th street car with a .18 engine and that one starts after 3 or 4 pulls every time.
 
Sounds like it's too richwhen cold starting, to me. As far as tune not sticking that may be so, but your tune requirements will change daily and sometimes during the day. Temp, Humidity, barometric pressure, Elevation. All these have a factor in tuning. You can have a perfect tune and Two hours later It will be all wacked out due to wheather changes. I have PS on two of my trucks, If thier not tuned It will take foreever to start. with the roto you can adjust as you try till it starts. Roto is the way to go. I just got tired of dead batteries and packing the darn thing around everywhere.
 
Thanks sami. you make a very good point.. my arm would probably fall off trying to start this thing with a pull start.
Are there any other engines out there that are easier to start and tune or are they all about the same?
 
Keithv said:
Thanks sami. you make a very good point.. my arm would probably fall off trying to start this thing with a pull start.
Are there any other engines out there that are easier to start and tune or are they all about the same?
Click to expand...

Yea and don't forget thr inevitable blister between your fingers. As far as easier to start engine IDK. Mostly depends on the tune I suppose. My Axial sometimes will fire in 3-4 pulls and some days it makes me so mad I just put it away. all part of the game I guess.
 
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