Proper Engine Break-in Procedure?

[Jeremy]

As most of u know the proper brak-in for the sts is like a gallon but On my surefire I did this http://rcvehicles.about.com/od/nitromaintenance/f/breakin.htm


my surefire is running strong with 5 gallons on it if u brake that engine in right it will reward you in the long run !!!!!!!!!

There are several different break-in methods you can use but the most commonly used one is to run the engine while the car is sitting off the ground at that rich setting for a tank or two and then for the next 3 or 4 tanks to run it on the ground at a low speed and gradually speed it up while you progress through each tank and leaning the high speed needle 1/8th of a turn at a time until it runs close to peak performance. Make sure the engine stays within a reasonable temperature range and make sure you see a good amount of blue smoke coming out of the exhaust throughout the throttle range to insure you are not running the engine overly lean.

 

[polystyrene]

this is taken from revo-world, its now the only method of breaking in an engine. Idleing the engine on a block of wood for a few tanks in my eyes is not great. this guide explains why:

Break-in techniques are like politics, few agree but to disagree. I have found that this method makes the most logical sense to me. You must use an accurate temp guage or don't do it. Courtesy of Johnny Cool Guy.com




ENGINE BREAK-IN LIKE THE PROS




This was copied from a post by STEPHEN BESS on the "Starting Grid" message board as he tried to help another member get more life and performance out of his OS motor.
This break-in method should apply to virtually any ABC hobby nitro engine (except for ringed engines).

If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold.

After cycling the engine in this manner for about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your engine will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your engine's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.

You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory settings are very rich on every engine I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening.

Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power

 

[thrasher6]

Thanks for this one Poly - I think I might try this method the next time I break one in...at least to see how it goes. I'm pretty sure my next one will be an STS .28 and i'm interested to see how it runs after this style break-in.

 

[Jeremy]

Sts has there own brake in procedure I would go bye what they recommend in the manual

 

[X25]

good find and advice guys keep up the good work. Many thanks to yall.