Problems installing FLM TVP

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nickmind

nickmind

Well-Known Member
Messages
256
Location
San Diego, CA
Hey all, I'm trying to give my metal savy a face lift. This savy was built with 25 series parts, and again most of the savy is metal gpm parts. I'm trying to install FLM 45200 .500 LCG TVP's in place of stock 25 TVP's. So the first problem was with the engine plate, which I knew i was going to have. (I wanted to use the blue GPM plate that is already on the truck. I guess i'm going to mod the plate, to get it to fit.)

This is, where I'm at now, I can not get my SH engine into place.

I think this is my main problem, the Backplate is bumping up against the TVP.

tvpinstall2.jpg


So what are my options? Cut the back plate, cut the TVP, replace the tranny case (just thinking the X tranny case would give me more room for the clutchbell and spur. i don't know) or is it somthing else i'm missing?

Here are more pics showing the cluchbell not lineing up with the spur gear, and the engine mount holes are off. Please let me know what you think?

tvpinstall3.jpg

tvpinstall4.jpg

tvpinstall6.jpg

tvpinstall7.jpg


Thanks for your time and help,

BTW it's a 18t CB and a 49t spur. I want to keep this configuration if possible.
 
Well the FLM chassis is beefy, I know when I changed to that chassis it was was much tighter in there. I run the nova engine mount also and it hit with a 17tooth clutch bell with a 49 spur. Your either gonna have to change gearing or break out the dremel and do some trimming.
 
I think a 47/17 may work in there. very close to what you have.


49/18 = 2.72

47/17 = 2.76


or as blaze said, dremel time
 
I had a similar problem and had to get out the dremel. it wasnt the backplate though it was the screws that hold the engine to the mount.
 
Nick, 49/18 gearing is going to be a tough fit no matter what. The spur gear simply pushes the CB way too far over with that gearing, and there's not really any way around that.

Consider this: 49/18 gearing (which comes out to a 2.72 ratio) is very close to 47/17 gearing (about 2.76), which is what I run with my FLM's.

Even with 47/17, though, you may have to notch the TVP a bit, because the engine-to-mount screws will still contact them. I only had to do a bit of grinding, and with the pipe installed it isn't even visible. In fact, you might still be able to use your 18T CB after clearancing, but the 49T spur's gotta go unless you run a way smaller CB.

Hope this helps!
 
before taking a dremel to the TVP's, try removing some material from the bottom of the motor mount...someone posted a thread about doing this (Might have been the infamous DooBeeWha) tape some sandpaper to the floor of your garage, and sand the mount down using a figure-8 motion (this helps you sand evenly)...you may have to take a bit off before it'll fit, but better to remove material from the mount than the TVP!!!
 
k0m0d067 said:
before taking a dremel to the TVP's, try removing some material from the bottom of the motor mount...someone posted a thread about doing this (Might have been the infamous DooBeeWha) tape some sandpaper to the floor of your garage, and sand the mount down using a figure-8 motion (this helps you sand evenly)...you may have to take a bit off before it'll fit, but better to remove material from the mount than the TVP!!!
Click to expand...

Hmmm, thats an interesting idea, but I'm not sure if that would give enough clearance. Not only that, but as fragile as the stock engine mount is, I personally wouldn't want to weaken it even more.

It takes very little to notch the TVPs...the engine mount screws contact the very bottom of the TVP's upper rail, so one just needs to make two small notches on the bottom of said rail. If you use button head screws on that side, you barely have to remove anything. I'd offer a picture Nick, but I realized that my grind spots arent visible in any of my pics.
 
THE JUDGE said:
Hmmm, thats an interesting idea, but I'm not sure if that would give enough clearance. Not only that, but as fragile as the stock engine mount is, I personally wouldn't want to weaken it even more.

It takes very little to notch the TVPs...the engine mount screws contact the very bottom of the TVP's upper rail, so one just needs to make two small notches on the bottom of said rail. If you use button head screws on that side, you barely have to remove anything. I'd offer a picture Nick, but I realized that my grind spots arent visible in any of my pics.
Click to expand...

several people on the forums have done it:

https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2876

furthermore, it's purpose is not to make the motor, and backplate fit under the TVP...it allows the clutch bell to slide farther under the spur, which in turn doesn't force the motor and backplate against the TVP, thereby alleviating the problem...

I figure the motor mount is a few dollars on eBay...FLM TVP's are considerably more, no matter where you get them...personally, I'd suggest that if you're going to start hacking on things...start with the cheapest, and easiest to replace :resp:
 
k0m0d067 said:
several people on the forums have done it:

https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2876

furthermore, it's purpose is not to make the motor, and backplate fit under the TVP...it allows the clutch bell to slide farther under the spur, which in turn doesn't force the motor and backplate against the TVP, thereby alleviating the problem...

I figure the motor mount is a few dollars on eBay...FLM TVP's are considerably more, no matter where you get them...personally, I'd suggest that if you're going to start hacking on things...start with the cheapest, and easiest to replace :resp:
Click to expand...

OK, fair enough Dean...I guess you can get enough clearance that way...I stand corrected!

That said, not all Savage engine mounts can be sanded down this way...there's no way you could do that to a lot of the aftermarket engine mounts, such as the Nova. I won't clog this thread with my photos, but ya know what I mean!
 
sorry bud...not trying to be argumentative...just giving the guy more than one option...plus, now that I look at his pics again, he'd have to cut a section of the TVP out, as it's his backplate that is holding him up, probably in addition to his motor mount screws. of course there's always the other possibility, that he won't be able to run his chosen spur/CB combo at all...

tvpinstall3.jpg
 
You can just get a xtm 24.7pro back plate. Its a lot smaller and gives you more room. If this link doesent work, go to hobbypeople.net and search part # 148191. It comes with a new oneway. Works on the LRP too. Link.
http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/148191.asp

Heres an old pic with my SH.28 with the xtm 24.7pro backplate and 18/49 gearing with FLM tvps.
Picture015-1.jpg
 
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I would recommend the Nova eng mount as it gives you tons of maneuverability and I believe I heard something about a lower eng plate or braces? I'm pretty sure anyway, hopefully someone with more knowledge will speak up. If not, I am a big fan of the dremel myself!
 
I
have a Nova mount. It gives you front to back adj. Not any more side to side than the stock one. The Nova is also a PITA if you ever take the mount screws out to remove the engine. The nuts that slide o give the adj. are under the engine. You cant get at them to hold them still while you bolt it up. I ended up JB welding the nuts still so it acted like a stocker, but stronger.
 
Just an update, after reading the first two posts, Solution being "dermel time". I figured that before I posted the start of the thread. So i was seeing what I should dermel. And the funny thing is figured that removing some of the bottom of the mount would be the fastest and easiest way to get the clearance. So far so good. I'm glad to hear people have thought the same way I did. Just one mm off the bottom gives so much more flexibility. So I'm in the process of taking off maybe 1.5 to 2 mm.

Now the discussion may be that moving the power deliverance to the spur gear having bad affect to spur or drive train. I'm not sure.

Thanks for all the post suggestions. I will update as soon as I'm done. Have been at this for a while now, MAN I love this hobby.!!!!
 
Another update. My engine mount modding work like a charm. Here is some info for you all.

When I started, the engine mount measured to be 20.84 mm. I got to about 19.91 mm and that gave the engine pretty good clearance, but I wanted more. So I went to 19.80, but anything lower then that the SH moter's carb would then hit the TVP, even at 19.80 mm the carb has to be slitly angled to fit. But I am still thinking about taking some off the back plate to make it 100% perfect. But this would work right now.
 
i just shaved a minute amount of the bottom part of the TVP whih doesnt affect the tvp at all the thing that hits is the motor mount screws is all it was easy and free to fix mine works awsome
 
I understant the back plate being A big issue but just for info for this thread. I have 47/20 gearing on my FLM/LRP truck and I got the clearence by changing to button head screws over the cap heads. No trimming of TVP or Motor mount needed! People are way to quick to grab the dremel around here....cornfused :resp:
 
BANKRUPTER said:
I understant the back plate being A big issue but just for info for this thread. I have 47/20 gearing on my FLM/LRP truck and I got the clearence by changing to button head screws over the cap heads. No trimming of TVP or Motor mount needed! People are way to quick to grab the dremel around here....cornfused :resp:
Click to expand...

another good option for those who are only having clearance issues with the screws...nice idea Bank! :resp:

I've always thought the fancier TVP's were WAY too purdy to alter anywho...
 
I had the same problem with my FLM setup. I did what bankrupter said but now my backplate is very close to the tvp but I am running 47/17t like the others. The problem with the FLM setup I think is that they lower the tranny in the tvp a fraction more then the motor. I don't know if it is the TVPs doing this or the thicker motor plate. The lowered CG makes every thing a lot closer together and make clearance a bit of an issue with a lot of things. My motor mount screw can hit the rear diff drive cup if I don't mount the motor perfectly. The rear drive shaft rubs on one of the motor mount braces ever so slightly because the shaft is a thicker FLM drive shaft.
 
Just for the record, my problem was not the screws. I replace my screws long before i posted this thread. If people are modding the TVPs over just replacing some screws??? Then some screw is lose! (not talking about on their truck! LOL)
 
BANKRUPTER said:
I understant the back plate being A big issue but just for info for this thread. I have 47/20 gearing on my FLM/LRP truck and I got the clearence by changing to button head screws over the cap heads. No trimming of TVP or Motor mount needed! People are way to quick to grab the dremel around here....cornfused :resp:
Click to expand...

O rly? read below, this was covered in post #7...

THE JUDGE said:
It takes very little to notch the TVPs...the engine mount screws contact the very bottom of the TVP's upper rail, so one just needs to make two small notches on the bottom of said rail. If you use button head screws on that side, you barely have to remove anything. I'd offer a picture Nick, but I realized that my grind spots arent visible in any of my pics.
Click to expand...

I was already using button-head screws, and still had to clearance the TVP a bit.
 
THE JUDGE said:
O rly? read below, this was covered in post #7...



I was already using button-head screws, and still had to clearance the TVP a bit.
Click to expand...

LOL, yes really! Try another brand then... :resp: I have space between the top of screw and TVP.. you also run that mill mount that I bent twice. I now run the stock X mount. its harder to bend than the Nova and it has suport for the front of the mill that takes strain off the mills mounting ears.that mount is a tad taller but it never made the cut on the racer. I only had them on my New Era TVPed truck. still do too but its bent and I don't care I dremeled the brakes to keep it.
 
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