Please help.. my i think my savage engine is broken..

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
F

Flasheh

Member
Messages
9
Hey guys.

Norwegian savage driver, a few months old in the hobby, and worried sick that my savage engine is a goner. Also, I´m new to the site... so, hello everyone :)

My Savage is the X4.6 RTR - version before the big bore one.

So, as you might expect, I need some help.
Here´s what happened:

I bought my savage used. It wasn´t used much, but broken in and worked like a charm when i got it.
I´ve been on a few trips with it, broken my fuel tank, a suspension arm and generally had a great deal of fun with it. So, I bought some spares and fixed the cars suspension, new tank and I was really looking forward to go bashing the savage. But to no avail.
The engine felt really heavy , and just wouldn´t start. It´s been standing for a couple of weeks...

The engine feels extremely stiff. Even when inside "in my workshop".
It takes a lot of man force to turn the engine when the piston is at the top.
This resulted in me breaking my rotostart 2 by overheating it. (the button wouldn`t pop out).
Previously, the rotostart didn´t struggle much, but I always suspected compression to be a bit high in the engine. The rotostart was able to turn the engine, but not like I see on videos on youtube, more like 1 - 2 times every second and it REALLY struggled.

So, what I´ve done so far is I´ve taken the engine of the car.
I´ve taken the rotostart system of the engine. The OWB was completely gone. Rollers missing, and wasn't centered at the shaft sticking out from the engine. So gonna have to replace that.
Turning the engine is still a hard task, but its manageable.. When removing the glow plug, the engine feels like it should. But once i put the plug back it almost feels like its jamming (which i suppose is a lot of compressed air). Should I dig deeper into the engine?

Also, if it matters, I use optifuel 25% nitro and 15% oil.

Heres what i checked:

1. glow plug works.
2. engine turns, but feels stiff and heavy.
3. No leakage in fuel lines or fuel tank.
4. fuel reaches carb



I have no idea where to go here, and I need someone to pat my back and tell me how to do this and that it will work again! I wanna climb those sand dunes!
 
Welcome to the site @Flasheh!

Depending on how far broken in the engine is, you should still have alot of compression. It is not uncommon to have to back out the glow plug a little to start the engine. Then once the engine is started, tighten the glow plug. I have several engines that even after many gallons of fuel are still tight enough to need that on start up. Compression will be at it's greatest when you are at the top of the stroke, as you alluded to. This is why when you shut down your engine it is always smart to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke. Otherwise the engine could cool and lock up the piston.

If you find that with the glow plug backed out it is still hard to turn over, you may be hydrolocked. Take the glow plug out completely and turn the truck upside down. Let any fuel in the chamber leak out.

Let us know if any of that helps, or if further assistance is needed.
 
X said:
Welcome to the site @Flasheh!

Depending on how far broken in the engine is, you should still have alot of compression. It is not uncommon to have to back out the glow plug a little to start the engine. Then once the engine is started, tighten the glow plug. I have several engines that even after many gallons of fuel are still tight enough to need that on start up. Compression will be at it's greatest when you are at the top of the stroke, as you alluded to. This is why when you shut down your engine it is always smart to move the piston to the bottom of the stroke. Otherwise the engine could cool and lock up the piston.

If you find that with the glow plug backed out it is still hard to turn over, you may be hydrolocked. Take the glow plug out completely and turn the truck upside down. Let any fuel in the chamber leak out.

Let us know if any of that helps, or if further assistance is needed.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot :)

The engine has used some gallons,so it´s properly broken in I guess.
I´ve tried loosening the glow plug just a tad, and it most assuredly helps.. But the car still just won't start..
Anything else I could try?
I think it´s so weird..I mean, I´ve used it plenty of times, but now its suddenly giving me a hard time..
 
Do you prime the engine? Making sure fuel is getting to the engine before trying to start it. Most do this by plugging the exhaust with your finger and turning over the engine a couple times (without the glowplug igniter on). If you have been using the same glowplug since you got it, have you tried a different plug? Sometimes the plug will "light" but not be sufficient for running the engine. Is your glowplug igniter fully charged? Same with roto-starter?
 
Yupp. I prime. This time I even took the pipe from the exhaust and blew so it just reached the carburettor.
Tasted like... well, poop.
I just replaced the glow plug with a new R5 one. When i light it I see fumes from residue of nitro.. It´s glowing red almost.

Here´s what I´ve done so far:

I took off almost everything. Carb. Rotostart and the cover in to the engine. I´ve made completely sure I´m not hydrolocked. So that´s not it. When everything was off the engine turned just like that. After putting things back again the engine gets heavier to turn by every piece i put back. So, there´s compression alright.

I´m picking up a new OWB later today.. It´s cold outside.. maybe 7 degrees celsius...
How would you go about trying to start the bastard now? My rotostart is dead.. I burned it because I tried for so long, and the engine was so heavy to turned.. Gonna have to buy a new one....
If i use a power drill, loosen the glow plug and maybe try from there?
 
Flasheh said:
If i use a power drill, loosen the glow plug and maybe try from there?
Click to expand...

You can use a drill. It'll turn over the engine a little slower than a roto-start would. Just make sure your clutch is low enough that you won't damage stuff if the engine doesn't want to turn over.
 
X said:
You can use a drill. It'll turn over the engine a little slower than a roto-start would. Just make sure your clutch is low enough that you won't damage stuff if the engine doesn't want to turn over.
Click to expand...
Allrite.

Umm. Priming the engine with the glow plug a tad out, will that be a problem?
 
I suspect your problem is your new fuel tank. I just changed one and I had to change the tune 2 full turns for the new tank. Your old settings may be flooding the engine now.
 
Count your turns in as you reset them to stock that way you can put it back if you want. If the temp has changed a lot since you last ran it you would have to retune anyway. If it is cold heat the engine with a heat gun or hair dryer. Loosen the plug. Once you put your glow starter on it you should be able to turn the plug with it to bring up the compression. Tighten it after it starts. If you have a stock Savage X I would do this with a 1/2 tank of fuel in it.

In my case I had to open the needle 2 turns so I don't know which way. My engine would try to start only after I removed the air cleaner and primed it straight into the carb. I figured out is wasn't getting fuel.
 
Last edited:
francis Labarbara said:
Count your turns in as you reset them to stock that way you can put it back if you want. If the temp has changed a lot since you last ran it you would have to retune anyway. If it is cold heat the engine with a heat gun or hair dryer. Loosen the plug. Once you put your glow starter on it you should be able to turn the plug with it to bring up the compression. Tighten it after it starts. If you have a stock Savage X I would do this with a 1/2 tank of fuel in it.

In my case I had to open the needle 2 turns so I don't know which way. My engine would try to start only after I removed the air cleaner and primed it straight into the carb. I figured out is wasn't getting fuel.
Click to expand...

So. Here´s an update.

I got my new OWB and put everything back together.
I tried loosening the plug just a bit, filled the tank half way up, primed it by holding the finger on the exhaust and gave it a go. Did not work, at all.

So, I tried dripping a few drops of fuel beneath the glow plug and the engine started.. for a second.
I'm glad the engine isn´t dead...But it still won´t start by doing the "normal" procedure I´m used to.
So, I took off the air filter, and blew in the fuel line normally connected to the exhaust. It takes a lot of blowing to get just a little fuel in there.. Now that we know the engine works, the glow plug works. the fuel lines work, but it isn´t getting any/enough fuel... What do i do? The carburettor seems fine to me.. it opens and closes, and theres nothing in it. Could it be the carb?
I have no idea what to do next !

And yeah, it might be worth mentioning that i put all the needles back to factory settings..
 
francis Labarbara said:
unhook the fuel line at the carb and blow into the pressure line and make sure fuel flows. You might clean the HSN and housing.
Click to expand...

Hoooooray! It´s alive again! Man that is satisfying!

Buuuut, once i apply some throttle, it dies! So... i tried adjusting some back and forth.. But to no avail! I was stupid enough to touch the idle needle. And the savage makes these jumps in the rpm range. Take everything back to stock and go from there?
 
francis Labarbara said:
I would not do the tank and lines. I would only lube the engine. Set it on something so the wheels are off the ground or they may get flat spots
Click to expand...
Allrite. Awesome. :) Thanks a lot for guiding me through this! it made me love my savage again!

One last question though... I wanna replace my fuel lines anyways... What size are they?
 
I don't know. Package says Dubro Nitro Line silicone tubing 2 ft. No 2231

Nitro Line comes in 6 hot colors to add a great look to your vehicle. Our tubing is made from high quality 3/32" (2.38 mm) ID silicone that is durable and will perform just the way it should. With no kinks when coiled and superb gripping on your fittings
 
Last edited:
Well, I saw you mentioned it was 7C where you were. Was the engine cold? I've found that big blocks especially do not like to start when below 65-70F (18-21C) at all. Broken in or not. I'd suggest heating the engine up to at least 80F (26C) then try to start it. I usually put my RC on the floor of my 1:1 with the heat blasted the entire drive to whereever I'm going to bash so it's good and toasty. Then I leave it there right until I'm ready to fire it up (have my fuel ready, transmitter on, pit bag out... Then I take it out, put the heater on, prime it quick and try starting. Then as I bash, I don't let it cool too much between shut downs or I heat them up again in my car.

If your home, you can also use a hair dryer on the engine for 5 minutes or so to get it up to temp.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest posts

Members online

Total: 260 (members: 2, guests: 258)
Back
Top