ScooterB
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 177
- Location
- Layton, Utah
Perry fuel pump install.
What is needed:
1-Perry VP-30 Fuel pump (clamp, fitting, and pressure line included) $30
1-Perry one way valve $8
1-1/8" vacuum T $0.25 (2 needed for optional routing)
1-6-32 pressure fitting (for fuel tank return) $1.59
1' fuel line $0.99
1- 6-32 tap and drill. $4.95
First you will need to decide where to mount the pump. I chose to mount on the back side of the shock tower so that it was protected and out of the way. Its not perfect but the best compromize I found on a Stock Savage X
Keep in mind that you will want to take the following into consideration when choosing a location;
1. The pump should be mounted so that the pump outlet is as close as possible to the level of the carb line fitting.
2. The pump cc line should be above the cc tap location so that any fluid buildup will drain back to the cc.
3. The recomended tap location is on the right side of the engine cc so that excess fluid is not slung up to the tap area by the crank and con rod.
4. The pump should be mounted within reach of the supplied cc tubing. (Modified in this install)
I chose to use the plastic clamp supplied with the pump mounted to the bottom of the upper crossmember of the shock tower. To do this I used a sharpie to mark a line where the clamp met the crossmember then using the reference line on the clamp marked the location of the hole on top of the tower. (Body mount removed) I then drilled a 1/8" hole in the top of the tower and used an extra flathead screw, nut, and washer to mount the pump. I also used a small piece of 2 sided tape between the clamp and pump for extra holding power. I mounted the inlet of the pump facing down but you may want to run your lines differently. Reinstalling the body mount clips is a little tricky but I found that I could move the pump just enough to get them back in. I don't remove these often anyway.
Next remove the fuel tank. The recomended setup is to add an extra fitting to the fuel tank for the fuel return line. I chose this method and used a 6-32 pressure fitting from my lhs. I drilled the tank with the drill bit supplied with my 6-32 tap and screwed the fitting into the tank. Method 2 would be to use a T fitting to the fuel line coming from the tank. This would recirculate the fuel through the pump rather than returning it to the tank. This may work better to keep fuel in the lines in the case of a rollover. (I'm going to try this on the second install for a comparison)
Next remove and disassemble the engine. In the pics you will notice that I did not remove the crank because I couldnt get the pinch fitting lose. I recommend removing the crank and bearings. The recomended location for the tap is through the motor mount due to the thicker material, but can be mounted above the mount. I chose to go through the mount due to frame rail clearance issues. (NOTE; This will not in any way decrease the structural integrity of the engine. This is a small hole and may be plugged with a 6-32 set screw if it is ever decided that you no longer want to use the pump.) ( Another good reason to go through the mount.)
Looking down through the cylinder ( Piston and sleeve removed but with backplate in position) I marked the location that I felt would be best for the hole (slightly behind the con rod but in front of the back plate and starter plate.
Now its time to reach down, check and see if your a man (No offense ladies) and grab a drill. You will want to drill right in the center of the mount and drill straight through using the 6-32 tap drill bit. (make sure that the crank is turned away from the drill location if still installed so that it is not damaged when the drill comes through!) I turned the engine so that the backplate opening was facing down and I had a clear view of the drill and its orientation to the mounting tabs. After you are done tap the engine on your bench and remove the debrit from the hole. After wiping the inside of the cc I blew through the backplate opening covering all other openings except the tap so that any debrit in the hole would be blown out of the engine.Be careful not to turn it over and drop the shavings into the bearings if your crank is still installed. Then using the 6-32 tap, tap the threads. It is not necessary to go very deep. Again clean all debrit from the engine. If you are using a compressor try to refrain from using it until after the cc is wiped clean as you may blow debrit into the bearings. You may now take a deep breath and relax. This sounds more complicated than it is. Basically think about what your doing and remember to keep everything clean and drill straight. You may actually use a smaller drill to go all of the way through if desired using the 6-32 bit to just drill deep enough for the tap. I do recommend removing the crank and then cleaning the engine well before reassembly.
Reassemble the engine and reinstall the engine and fuel tank back into the truck.
From the fuel tank (Stock pickup location) I ran a fuel line down through the bottom of the shock tower and connected it to the inlet side of the pump. The pump has arrows indicating flow direction. From the outlet of the pump I have a short fuel line running to a fuel filter that I have pinched between the tower and the body mount. (It works) Then from the filter the line runs to the carb. As close to the carb as possible install a 1/8 T fitting for the fuel return line. From the T fitting run a fuel line to the new fitting on the fuel tank. Or install another T fitting into the fuel line coming from the tank but before the pump if you have chosen option 2.
The fuel tank must be vented to allow air to enter as fuel is consumed. To do this install the one way valve to a short piece of tubing so that the flow will allow air to enter the tank. (DO NOT CONNECT TO THE EXHAUST PRESSURE FITTING) The check valve is used to prevent fuel from spilling in a rollover. From the one way I ran a fuel line to a fuel filter which I mounted to the bottom of the rollbar using zip ties. I used an antenna cap to cap the exhaust pressure fitting.
Next you need to connect the tap from the cc to the pump. In the location on the rear of the shock tower the line is about 1/2" too short. I contacted Gary at Conley Precision and he advised that it would be ok to add a short piece of brass tubing in the middle of the line. My LHS had plenty in stock. I cut a piece about 1" long and spliced into the tubing.
Install Complete.
To prime the pump simply crank the engine. I have rotostart and the pump self primes. Should also work with pullstart.
As for tuning I found that I had to increase the pressure on the pump by turning the adjustment screw in. Reset LSN and HSN to factory settings. (Rich) At first the bottom will be very rich so some adjustments will be necessary. Start the engine and warm it up, then run to WOT. The engine should run rich at WOT. If not adjust the pump until a rich setting is achieved. After the pump is adjusted proceed to adjust the HSN until WOT settings are correct. Then adjust LSN.
I found that more adjustment was required for the LSN than the HSN which was expected due to the fuel pressure which was non existent at idle with an exhaust pressure sytem.
In the testing that I have done I have found that the adjustments stay very consistent throughout my runs regardless of fuel tank levels. Restarting the engine is very easy and after tuning the engine is very snappy and responsive. The engine will also idle smoothly for hours if you want to burn up your bellgear bearings. It seems a little on the fat side in the midrange but not so much that I have any problems with it. A 3 needle carb would be a benefit to this install.
I would also like to note that I am at 4400 feet above sea level so my tuning is different than someone closer to sea level.
Now enjoy!
What is needed:
1-Perry VP-30 Fuel pump (clamp, fitting, and pressure line included) $30
1-Perry one way valve $8
1-1/8" vacuum T $0.25 (2 needed for optional routing)
1-6-32 pressure fitting (for fuel tank return) $1.59
1' fuel line $0.99
1- 6-32 tap and drill. $4.95
First you will need to decide where to mount the pump. I chose to mount on the back side of the shock tower so that it was protected and out of the way. Its not perfect but the best compromize I found on a Stock Savage X
Keep in mind that you will want to take the following into consideration when choosing a location;
1. The pump should be mounted so that the pump outlet is as close as possible to the level of the carb line fitting.
2. The pump cc line should be above the cc tap location so that any fluid buildup will drain back to the cc.
3. The recomended tap location is on the right side of the engine cc so that excess fluid is not slung up to the tap area by the crank and con rod.
4. The pump should be mounted within reach of the supplied cc tubing. (Modified in this install)
I chose to use the plastic clamp supplied with the pump mounted to the bottom of the upper crossmember of the shock tower. To do this I used a sharpie to mark a line where the clamp met the crossmember then using the reference line on the clamp marked the location of the hole on top of the tower. (Body mount removed) I then drilled a 1/8" hole in the top of the tower and used an extra flathead screw, nut, and washer to mount the pump. I also used a small piece of 2 sided tape between the clamp and pump for extra holding power. I mounted the inlet of the pump facing down but you may want to run your lines differently. Reinstalling the body mount clips is a little tricky but I found that I could move the pump just enough to get them back in. I don't remove these often anyway.
Next remove the fuel tank. The recomended setup is to add an extra fitting to the fuel tank for the fuel return line. I chose this method and used a 6-32 pressure fitting from my lhs. I drilled the tank with the drill bit supplied with my 6-32 tap and screwed the fitting into the tank. Method 2 would be to use a T fitting to the fuel line coming from the tank. This would recirculate the fuel through the pump rather than returning it to the tank. This may work better to keep fuel in the lines in the case of a rollover. (I'm going to try this on the second install for a comparison)
Next remove and disassemble the engine. In the pics you will notice that I did not remove the crank because I couldnt get the pinch fitting lose. I recommend removing the crank and bearings. The recomended location for the tap is through the motor mount due to the thicker material, but can be mounted above the mount. I chose to go through the mount due to frame rail clearance issues. (NOTE; This will not in any way decrease the structural integrity of the engine. This is a small hole and may be plugged with a 6-32 set screw if it is ever decided that you no longer want to use the pump.) ( Another good reason to go through the mount.)
Looking down through the cylinder ( Piston and sleeve removed but with backplate in position) I marked the location that I felt would be best for the hole (slightly behind the con rod but in front of the back plate and starter plate.
Now its time to reach down, check and see if your a man (No offense ladies) and grab a drill. You will want to drill right in the center of the mount and drill straight through using the 6-32 tap drill bit. (make sure that the crank is turned away from the drill location if still installed so that it is not damaged when the drill comes through!) I turned the engine so that the backplate opening was facing down and I had a clear view of the drill and its orientation to the mounting tabs. After you are done tap the engine on your bench and remove the debrit from the hole. After wiping the inside of the cc I blew through the backplate opening covering all other openings except the tap so that any debrit in the hole would be blown out of the engine.Be careful not to turn it over and drop the shavings into the bearings if your crank is still installed. Then using the 6-32 tap, tap the threads. It is not necessary to go very deep. Again clean all debrit from the engine. If you are using a compressor try to refrain from using it until after the cc is wiped clean as you may blow debrit into the bearings. You may now take a deep breath and relax. This sounds more complicated than it is. Basically think about what your doing and remember to keep everything clean and drill straight. You may actually use a smaller drill to go all of the way through if desired using the 6-32 bit to just drill deep enough for the tap. I do recommend removing the crank and then cleaning the engine well before reassembly.
Reassemble the engine and reinstall the engine and fuel tank back into the truck.
From the fuel tank (Stock pickup location) I ran a fuel line down through the bottom of the shock tower and connected it to the inlet side of the pump. The pump has arrows indicating flow direction. From the outlet of the pump I have a short fuel line running to a fuel filter that I have pinched between the tower and the body mount. (It works) Then from the filter the line runs to the carb. As close to the carb as possible install a 1/8 T fitting for the fuel return line. From the T fitting run a fuel line to the new fitting on the fuel tank. Or install another T fitting into the fuel line coming from the tank but before the pump if you have chosen option 2.
The fuel tank must be vented to allow air to enter as fuel is consumed. To do this install the one way valve to a short piece of tubing so that the flow will allow air to enter the tank. (DO NOT CONNECT TO THE EXHAUST PRESSURE FITTING) The check valve is used to prevent fuel from spilling in a rollover. From the one way I ran a fuel line to a fuel filter which I mounted to the bottom of the rollbar using zip ties. I used an antenna cap to cap the exhaust pressure fitting.
Next you need to connect the tap from the cc to the pump. In the location on the rear of the shock tower the line is about 1/2" too short. I contacted Gary at Conley Precision and he advised that it would be ok to add a short piece of brass tubing in the middle of the line. My LHS had plenty in stock. I cut a piece about 1" long and spliced into the tubing.
Install Complete.
To prime the pump simply crank the engine. I have rotostart and the pump self primes. Should also work with pullstart.
As for tuning I found that I had to increase the pressure on the pump by turning the adjustment screw in. Reset LSN and HSN to factory settings. (Rich) At first the bottom will be very rich so some adjustments will be necessary. Start the engine and warm it up, then run to WOT. The engine should run rich at WOT. If not adjust the pump until a rich setting is achieved. After the pump is adjusted proceed to adjust the HSN until WOT settings are correct. Then adjust LSN.
I found that more adjustment was required for the LSN than the HSN which was expected due to the fuel pressure which was non existent at idle with an exhaust pressure sytem.
In the testing that I have done I have found that the adjustments stay very consistent throughout my runs regardless of fuel tank levels. Restarting the engine is very easy and after tuning the engine is very snappy and responsive. The engine will also idle smoothly for hours if you want to burn up your bellgear bearings. It seems a little on the fat side in the midrange but not so much that I have any problems with it. A 3 needle carb would be a benefit to this install.
I would also like to note that I am at 4400 feet above sea level so my tuning is different than someone closer to sea level.
Now enjoy!
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