Octane Issues

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hollytree

Member
Messages
9
I got a well used HPI octane recently (looks abused: some poles on rolling cage broken, well tear/wear base plastic plates, cracked muffler, etc).

In my 1st drive (1st~2nd tanks of gas), I didn't notice servo twitching issue.

In my 2nd drive (2nd day, 3rd~4th tanks of gas), in 3th tank gas, I saw the throttle servo and front wheels are vibrating slightly from engine start up. In 4th tank gas, the car can hardly turn right but easier to turn left gradually, the gas throttle servo just vibrate by it self and out of control. I thought it was battery issue and recharged the batteries, but the two 1600mah batteries ate only 800mah to 1000mah (formerly charged 1000mah~1200mah, so I suppose the batteries are not totally drain).
The same day, I connected one charged 1600mah NiMH battery to receiver, and connected a charged 7.4v LiPo battery to CDI (I recall later that I connected this battery in reversed pole), started up (yes! it did start up even through the CDI power supplied is twisted!), the two servos vibrate seriously. While the engine kept running, I moved CDI away from the battery box, the servo vibration stopped. But soon the steering servo dead. Dissembled the servo, found one small chip closed to motor cable(3 pins, stated AHR or BHR, don't remember) has burning mark.

Bought two new steering servos.

In my 3rd drive (5th tank of gas), I installed one steering servo, connected two 1600mah NiMH (all placed in battery box), move CDI right behind the real body poles, tested and both servos responded well, either on/off engine. No twitching. Try to move CDI closed to battery box, saw some random slight twitching on gas servo.

In my 4th drive (6th tank of gas), I replaced 1600mah NiMH battery for CDI with a 7.4v 1000mah LiPo, so far so good.

Remained problems (have these problems from my day1 in HPI octane):
1, Difficult to start engine esp. for hot engine. For cold engine, normally 1~8 pull can start the engine. For Hot engine, even 20~30 pulls are useless. Have to wait more than 5 mins, then pull again, then it can start within 10 pulls.

2, Looks like the engine is not quite powerful. It does accelerate with full throttle, but so far didn't observed front wheels head-up. But from the tear/wear mark on rolling cage, the former owner must flip-flop the car quite many times.

3,I heard gear switch from Gear1 to Gear2, but didn't find out Gear2 jumping to Gear3. Maybe because my ears not sensitive enough.

4,When the gas tank almost empty, the car will accelerate by it self. Is it normal?
 
BTW, I use roughly 1:20 to 1:25 (2cycle oil : #87 gas containing 10% ethanol got from local gas station).
I cleaned up fire plug (looks clean. further clean using a old tooth brush)
I have not adjust carb or idle. Since it's used, I believe the former owner had broken in and tuned the engine. When start from cool engine, it will rush out a bit. When engine is warm, no rush or very little rush when starts up.
 
BTW, I use roughly 1:20 to 1:25 (2cycle oil : #87 gas containing 10% ethanol got from local gas station).
I cleaned up fire plug (looks clean. further clean using a old tooth brush)
I have not adjust carb or idle. Since it's used, I believe the former owner had broken in and tuned the engine. When start from cool engine, it will rush out a bit. When engine is warm, no rush or very little rush when starts up.
Hey @hollytree I think all Octanes accelerate when out of fuel because more air is present, when mine is cold or just started it also revs up for a few seconds. I have 21 tanks in mine and it's a beast but I have had to replace some parts here and there. put your needles back to stock settings and run it.
 
Thanks to MarQ.
I installed a fan on top of the engine last night. Run the car this noon, seems like the car is a bit easier to start up with hot/warm engine. But it stalled for 3 or 4 times within one tank of gas.
Photos below show the fan, fan power supply (4x 18650), and the way I mount the CDI.IMG_20150815_2224300_rewind.jpg IMG_20150815_2224467_rewind.jpg IMG_20150815_2221173_rewind.jpg
 
for both #1 and #2, I'm gonna say it's a little out of tune. reset it to stock settings, and retune it.
#3, make sure that the engine is revving high enough( also tuning). if it is, then you just need to ajust the shift point.

and just a tip, ive always used high octane fuel with ethanol treatment. its a little more $$, bit it will prolong engine life and performance.
 
Tks to rcnut14.
When the engine is hot, I tried to tighten the idle screw for about half circle clockwise; I also tried to adjust L screw for about 1/24 circle, both clockwise and anti-clockwise, but they don't help for starting the hot engine. Still need to wait 5~8 mins for the engine to cool down, then can start with no much difficult.

When I mix oil to gas, I use a kitchen balance. Formerly I use 20/1 weight ratio, later I notice it should be volume ratio. I found out density from internet, the result is 16.3/1 weight ratio should be equal to 20/1 volume ratio.

But, with this "correct" mix ratio fuel, the old problem still there - difficult to start a hot engine.

In this forum some one mentioned a new CDI solved his engine starting problem. maybe I need to check the spark while the CDI is warm.
 
I would do that just to be safe.

how does it idle?

Idle setting looks fine. Rush out a while when start from cold engine, and wheels roll forward slowly when lift the car in the air. When start from warm engine, the wheels barely move.

When the engine gets hotter (long run, rush run, obstruction like deep grass, hot noon), it's more likely to stall. Sound like uneven and short breath. Does it mean this engine's sweet point varies with working temp?

So far I have not tune L / H and Idle more than plus minus half circle. Not bold enough to adjust thoroughly. A neighbor played gas heli b4 said he can help me do some tuning.

I read somewhere that this engine has some leaking issue. My current muffler tube is broken with gap, I covered the gap with alu foil, but oil still spray everywhere, so I am not sure whether there is any other leakage. If there is leakage, may be it will affect hot engineer working situation.

In a recent home party, I showed my dirty car running on my drive way. Some bigger children are excited, but most of adults scare away. Some mom hate this noisy monster. I m lucky my wife is neutral to my hobby, in most of time.

I ordered the "Silence Box" set, the square muffler and adapter. Waiting for them to arrive.
 
Hello @hollytree
when the engine is hot you must accelerated full with the trigger when you pulls to increase the amount of air.
Tks to damSP. I will try full throttle when starting hot engineer next time and report back here. I tried b4 to give a bit throttle while starting hot engineer but nothing better.
 
New muffler installed. Engine roars much more gentle. I believe my neighbors will be easier to accept my hobby. But not so fancy compares with the original muffler.
Tried to start hot engineer while give full throttle. Not obvious improve.
Weather is going cooler. I waited 3 to 4 minutes after engine stall then it can start. In hot days I need to wait 5~10 mins.
And feel like the engine is a bit unlikely to stall in cool evening. It stalled 3 to 4 times per fill.
 

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