New Sts D30m !!!

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Teknoron

Teknoron

Active Member
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73
Ok I did it!!!! I bought the STS D30M!!! Should be here on Monday or Tuesday!!! I have read the different break in methods, going to go with the heat cycle. First seal the engine with the copper sealant nice and tight. I like using O’Donnell’s. is that ok? Second can I break the engine in with 20% then after 5 or 6 tanks of the heat cycle move to the 30%? And which plug do you recommend, remember I live in Florida. And last but not least, do I have to break the engine in the truck? I took a ¾ in board mounted a tank and engine mount to it, it is where I clean, test and lube my engine, can I use this or do I need to put it in the truck for the break in?
 
Take a sharpie and mark where BDC is on the flywheel it makes it easier. Break should consist of a gallon or more. Everything doob said as well.
 
I used McCoy MC-59 plug and Trinity 30% fuel for break in and I have continued to use the same. Rick Brake doesn't like the Trinity fuel BUT he recomended the McCoy MC-59 plug.

My STS D30M's box had a HUGE sticker that stated to use a hot plug when running 30% nitro fuel, it was the opposite of what I have been told about big blocks so I called Rick. The box was right, the STS likes to use hot plugs with 30% nitro.

HERE is the single most important thing I am going to type. For your first heat cycles the board with a fuel tank and mount will work, BUT you will still need to add load to your heat cycling at some point. The post that Doob reffered to has my entire break in plan. You don't need to go as far as I did, but I would recomend that you try too follow it step by step.

Fx's sharpie mark is the single most over looked thing you can do to make your life easier. I have done it to all my mills, I just never remember to tell everyone else to do it :dunno:
 
Some link me to Defiantspaz's break-in method? I can't find it.
 
Site Jester said:
you should like that mill .. sucks tho over a gallon to break it in
Click to expand...

Well I will say that up till last week I was gonna buy the Axial .28rr. Then 2 things happen, first I was talking to another racer last weekend and he said it would be stupid to put that size .30 in that truck. Now he has some $500 engine in his and kept throwing a fit when I would blow past him with my OS 30 when it was running right. And I was born and raised in North Carolina before I ended up here in florida, we coined the phrase, grab ur moonshine this is gonna be cool! Ugh dang buford that is gonna leave a mark.

Plus I got one hell of a deal on the STS D30M.!!!!
 
Update... Purchased the engine on thursday about 4pm, eastern. recieved engine on saturday..... If the engine is that fast still in the box, I can't wait till I get it broke in.
 
Tek....I bought mine Thursday and got it Sat. as well. I just sealed mine all up today (Sunday). Will likeley install this week and start breakin. We should compare notes along the way.

When I opened up my engine to seal I was amazed at how clean it was...very nice fit and finish. Only time will tell how well it runs.

Good luck.

Later...Hankinator
 
I think that both Tek and Hank will be pleased with their purchases.

Please don't get discouraged with this mill, it is a **** during the first stages of break in. After you get through the static heat cycles and start the heat cycles that load the engine you are going to need to start playing with the carb needles a little to stay in the safe heat ranges.

These carb needles are extremely course, very little input is needed to make a big tune change. Be patient and make very small changes at a time to get the best results.

Tek, if that guy with his $500.00 mill was getting ripped because your O.S. .30VG was pulling him down the straights, wait until you start doing it with the STS D30M and in a wheely I might add :cheers:
 
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As I was heading out to the track on Saturday with my Losi sedan and Mini quake under my arm. Struggling with my guilt like I was cheating on my Savage as it sat on the workbench waiting for its new engine. I was great at the door by the mail girl with a package. Quickly I tore it open to see the black box, and as I opened it I could hear the theme song to 2001 a space odyssey. I was drooling like Homer Simpson over a box of jelly donuts. Are the awe had settled down a notch, that night I sealed the engine so that I could break it in on Sunday. So Sunday I have the engine mounted in the truck, lubed it up with some after run oil, installed the McCoy plug and then loosened it just a tad. Swiped the wife’s hair dryer and heated up the head to about 150 degrees, then pulled the pull start and the engine came to life! It ran for about 2 min, running rich as hell! Had to have 2 fans blowing so I didn’t pass out from the smoke. It conked out probably due to the richness, temp was around 180 degrees. Went to start it again, loosened the plug, this time the pull start was hard as hell to pull, pull once, then twice which it nearly caught, so I swapped out the battery in the glow starter, third time the engine stopped the pull start pulled free busting myself in the mouth. After a few minutes of settling down, I removed the pull start, the knot had pulled free, seemed to be a very small knot compared tot the hole in the spool. Was going to wind the spool up and then attach the pull rope, much like you would do the pull start on your lawn mower, yet as I moved the spool to tighten up the tension it just spun free. So I removed the spool and noticed that the spring had snapped off. So I wrapped the string around the spool and was able to get the engine started to run 2 more tanks thru it. Leaned it very small increments (like the guys said) and got the engine at 200 – 210 degrees. Was told to give Mark a shout about the pull start, will let you know what happens…


BTW – this engine has the most compression I have ever seen. The pinch holy cow! Now I see why everyone says it takes about a gallon of fuel to break the engine in properly.
 
Hankinator said:
Tek....I bought mine Thursday and got it Sat. as well. I just sealed mine all up today (Sunday). Will likeley install this week and start breakin. We should compare notes along the way.

When I opened up my engine to seal I was amazed at how clean it was...very nice fit and finish. Only time will tell how well it runs.

Good luck.

Later...Hankinator
Click to expand...

It si such a thing of Beauty!!!
 
I think people hit and miss w/ the pull starts w/ the sts ...

I had the sts .30 and had 4 gallons on it .. The pullstart never gave me a problem .. My buddy has a sts .30 also w/ 6 gallons on it STILL the origanal pullstart
 
Your a ahead of me tek...got mine sealed and mounted Sunday and did 6 heat cycles this eve. Yes...pull start is taking a beating...I have a blister on my finger from it...lol.

Will probably do the rest of the static heat cycles on Wed. eve.

Keep us posted.

Later,

Hankinator
 
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Well...I broke my pull start..it wouldnt spool back up. So I disassembled to find I pulled the knot half way through the hole and caused it to bind. I was certain that I wan't pulling it too far...guess not. Anyway it may or may not be repairable.

So I modified a 7/16 driver bit to fit the PS shaft...now I can start it with a drill. Once the engine is broken in I will put on a working pull starter.

I have heard complaints of pull starters breaking. I was actually suprised this one made it as far as it did. This engine just has so much pinch/compression it is rough on those little plastic pull starts.

Anyway...I will try to fix.

Later,

Hankinator
 
Hankinator said:
Well...I broke my pull start..it wouldnt spool back up. So I disassembled to find I pulled the knot half way through the hole and caused it to bind. I was certain that I wan't pulling it too far...guess not. Anyway it may or may not be repairable.

So I modified a 7/16 driver bit to fit the PS shaft...now I can start it with a drill. Once the engine is broken in I will put on a working pull starter.

I have heard complaints of pull starters breaking. I was actually suprised this one made it as far as it did. This engine just has so much pinch/compression it is rough on those little plastic pull starts.

Anyway...I will try to fix.

Later,

Hankinator
Click to expand...

I emailed the guy from Ebay and he set me up a great Deal on the Roto-Start!
 
STS D30M Update

Well this weekends race was cancelled due to rain. Thank you lord! I got the Savage out there and fired up the STS with no problem, ran a couple laps and was amazed at the power and the stability, due to the 2in extenders. I was giving her a lil gas and watching her pull the tires up a lil was impressed so much that I ended up smacking the wall and pulled the tire, hub and axel right off. By the time I got the engine had flooded and died. So I went back to the table yanked the wheel extenders off and went to restart the motor. So I cracked the plug a full turn inserted roto start shaft and then I heard a pop!!! I looked at the shaft which now was missing the end piece, it had snapped the end off my roto-start shaft! NOW THAT’S COMPRESSION!!!!!!! So I backed the glow plug now 2 full turns out and grabbed my buds roto-start and I heard another pop! Thinking crap I just broke his shaft too! I pull out the shaft to see the part of the backplate that the shaft goes into come out. And the gear on it is totally smooth!!! Well today I figured a work around. My new starter consist of a 12mm socket, with a hole drilled in just enough to fit a backplate screw into it to lock the starter shaft nut into the socket. Now I just use a standard drill on low to start the truck. So here is what I have learned, if the engine floods, remove the plug dump all fuel before starting!!!! Because I would really hate to have to put another update telling how I destroyed a drill trying to start my truck! Will keep you in the loop on the rest of the breakin.
 
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