Need help with break in. New v2 motor instaled,started and idled for 5min.. maybe an 1/8 of a tank. Spitting a lil fuel out an very lil smoke. Remember this is just idle. How long should i do this before starting to tune. I'm in no hurry as to i don't want to damage or blow this up !
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New f4.6v2 motor
- Thread starter Popsrc
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More time breaking in is better, I usually run mine in circles for a few tanks just giving enuff throttle to keep it from dying and after 4 or 5 tanks I start to tune the engine to my liking.... remember to try to get the temp above 200 degrees and always put the piston at BDC between running it.....
there are so many breakin recommendations that it would take a library to list them all, but the way I do it seems to work just fine for me.......
there are so many breakin recommendations that it would take a library to list them all, but the way I do it seems to work just fine for me.......
rcnut14
I give bad advice
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- Location
- lancaster county, pa
ive heard that the best way to do it is the " heat cycling method". the following is a quote from the post on RCNT..........
Heat cycling method of breaking in a new engine
The following information is from a world class racer:
If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys recommend anymore.
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your engine will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.
You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory settings are very rich on every engine I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in using the "old school" method. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.
BDC means Bottom Dead Center. This is when you roll the crank until the piston is at the very bottom of the crank case. Before you install your new engine look at the piston through the exhaust and when the piston is at the bottom put a mark on the flywheel. This will make it easy to set the piston to BDC.
Once you locate BDC, or Bottom Dead Center, put a mark on the top of the flywheel to indicate where it is.
EVERY time you shut down the engine, turn the flywheel to the BDC position. Once you have that point marked it's effortless to just turn the flywheel and know that the piston is exactly where it should be as shown in the photo below.
Heat cycling method of breaking in a new engine
The following information is from a world class racer:
If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys recommend anymore.
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your engine will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.
You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory settings are very rich on every engine I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in using the "old school" method. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.
BDC means Bottom Dead Center. This is when you roll the crank until the piston is at the very bottom of the crank case. Before you install your new engine look at the piston through the exhaust and when the piston is at the bottom put a mark on the flywheel. This will make it easy to set the piston to BDC.
Once you locate BDC, or Bottom Dead Center, put a mark on the top of the flywheel to indicate where it is.
EVERY time you shut down the engine, turn the flywheel to the BDC position. Once you have that point marked it's effortless to just turn the flywheel and know that the piston is exactly where it should be as shown in the photo below.
rcnut14
I give bad advice
- Messages
- 1,297
- Location
- lancaster county, pa
also, here's a list of useful nitro threads....https://www.hpisavageforum.com/threads/list-of-useful-nitro-engine-threads.13941/
