Need more help.. Clutch related

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Yes double post, also.. Id like to know how to get the screw holding the clutch assembly together off.. Its obviously thread locked, and well at that.. Heating it did nothing, so i don't know what to do. Please help a nitro noob :)
 
Sounds like you need a new brass bushing. The one you see outside under the screw. I've had to replace several as they wear on the retaining screw. I buy the by the bag (5 or 6) but pull it off and check the bearings and shoes as well.
 
Well thats my problem i cant pull it off, and where can i buy this part my lhs dosent carry them for my engine.. Or so he says? lol
 
Has that brass spacer on the end worn any? Can also get a clutch bell shim kit to take up some of the slop. For getting the screw out, heat normally does the trick if focused right on the center of the head, or get some needle nose vice grip pliers tha will grab hold of it and twist it off, or take dremel and cut a notch for a wide flat blade driver to used.
 
Either grab hold of the flywheel or better get a piston stop. It goes in the head in place of glow plug. If you don't have availabilty you may be able to remove the glow plug, roll the piston down and put string in the cylinder. as you roll the piston up till it locks and you can remove the screw. Not the best way but will work. But every tool box should have a piston stop very handy tool and only a couple bucks.
 
Yeah ill get a piston locking tool.. A few of those bushings aswell. I'm going to install the optional 18t clutch bell so i can pick the front wheels up, since the one on it will not.. Or theres something wrong with it, it was broken in wrong.. Full throttled to soon.. don't ask, long story all caused by a misunderstanding. But thanks guys.
 
What tooth bell is installed now? and what engine? The taller the gear on the engine means better top end. So if you have a 15 tooth bell on now and cant get wheelies you wont get any with the 18 tooth bell.
 
If you want wheelies go to a 12 or 13 tooth. 12 is hard to find sometimes and you may need a bigger spur gear to mesh.
 
eh

To each their own but I don't like the concept of piston stops. Spray a bit of penetrating oil (pb blaster kicks butt) onto the screw area and let it set for at least 15 minutes. Using a meaty phillips head, grip the flywheel in your fist, put a good amount of pressure to the screw and give her a twist.

If you find the flywheel spinning in your fist and your contemplating buying a piston stop tool, I'd recommend a crankshaft lock tool. Little more work but healthier for the engine IMO. Talking about engine stop tools is a little bit like discussing which episode of star wars was the best.

Also how are you heating it? Use a good soldering iron right on the center of the screw. Leave it there until its hot enough to cake the locktite.
 
I'm with you votefordurden2008, I don't like the idea of piston locks, added un-needed stress to the piston and connecting rod. For holding the the flywheel you can also use a set of "V" grip pliers with "soft jaws" or use rubber between the jaws and flywheel.
 
OOH.. i thought.. oh nevermind, haha. Its the 4.1 and it wont pick the wheels up with the factory 15t? clutch bell :'(
 
OOH.. i thought.. oh nevermind, haha. Its the 4.1 and it wont pick the wheels up with the factory 15t? clutch bell :'(

If tuned right and running a 15 tooth clutch bell and a 49 or above tooth spur gear you should be able to pick the wheels up.

What kind of soldering iron?

If you have one that has a nice pointed end to get into the opening of the screw head where the driver would be inserted. I think mine is a 1500 watt pencil style.
 
1500 watt? thats pretty.. insane, the only soldering irons i have where for circuit board work when i was into electric, which i almost want to get back into again. Nitro just is to much work for me, but I'm not going to give up.. I need to learn how to tune it, thats for sure. It wasnt shifting yesterday.. Just pegging out 1st gear.. So many problems, lol..
 

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