néed help with axial

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J

Jon

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I'm trying to replace the front bearing in my axial 28 spec 1s and I'm at the point where I need to take the conrod piston assembly out by I can't get it to come off the pin on the crank enough. It only comes a little more then hal way off the pin. Am I missing somghing? Yes the sleeve is already out.
 
Is the crank all the way in when you try to remove it? With the flywheel and collet removed, the crank will move slightly back.
 
yea I have that stuff of to and I pushed the crank in all the way and it's still only coming half way of that pin on crank, idk what I'm doing wrong.
 
Ok I got it it was incredibly tight fit had to put a little force.
3 questions
1 the bearing that came out had the outside of it with the cover and the inside the balls were exposed, the replacement I have has covers on both sides, still ok to use?
2 I didn't see what way re piston came out witchside of it faces the exaust port the longer side or shorter?( the piston has a short skirt side and a long
3 I took the crank out, the groove on the front of it, is there suppssed to be a o ring on it? Or nothing?

Also I read that u should heat the block to get the bearing out well I tapped on mine with a socket and it came out without a problem, would that be why it's leaking like crazy? Cuz it wasn't a tight fit? Or did I just get lucky?
 
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1: you are OK to put it back in this way otherwise the best is to remove one seal and get all the factory grease out of it and place it into the block.

2: The short side is toward the crank. it is clearance for the counter balance on the crank.

3.No o-ring on the crank. This groove is what helps create the front seal. The seal is actually just tight tolerances and RPM's making a light/thin film of oil from the fuel around the crank between that and the block.
 
alright perfect thanks, what's the best way to Put the new bearing in? Heat block or just light taps?
 
I usually get a socket the same size as the outer race of the bearing and tap it in. Making sure you don't hurt the seal or dent the ball's. You can apply some heat to the block and freeze the bearing, which may assist installation.
 
Is all in one oil good to use to put a little lube in the bearings before assembly? I don want to start It the motor with no lube cuz I just sprayed the whole thin down with carb cleaner so I take it that it took all the lube with it


I mean 3-in-1 oil if not I'll jus go pick up some afterrun oil at the lhs I have to go there in a few anyways
 
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ARO would be best as it will burn up with the fuel, not sure how 3 in 1 will affect the firing of the fuel. WD40 works as well but ARO is best. You will also want to use it to install the sleeve and piston. Make sure if its going to sit for a little while to get some in the center bearing as well. Maybe once sealed and assembled roll it over a few times to get the oil threw the engine so nothing rusts or has the chance to.
 
alright to be safe I'll get aro.
The 3 in 1 does say lubes, cleans, prevents rust and under the DANGER thing it says combustible, but I'll get some aro thanks for the help
 
I've been using WD-40 for years and I haven't had an issue yet.

Loosen the Glow Plug, Open the carb, fill it with WD-40, turn the motor over a few times, fill the carb again and turn the motor over until wd-40 is bubbling out around the glow plug, tighten glow plug, done.
 
3 in one oil and wd-40 are fine. I have used 3 in one oil when I have taken my engine apart. If you use too much oil, you may have a little difficulty getting it started,
 
thanks guys, i was going to get some aro at my lhs today but they don't carry it (i know weird) instead they just sell 3 in 1 oil.
 
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