My Piston Sleeve Is Stuck!

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Fx

Fx

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I've baking it at 250 for 30 minutes, then hooked up the rotostart and spun it. It will not come out! I can't spin the fly wheel because the crankshaft is broken. I need help I can't get it out. Any tips, tricks would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
BTW in trying to remove the piston sleeve out of a Nitro Star F4.1, it's the stock motor in the Savage X.
 
Try useing a ziptie. put piston at the bottom, heat the engine ,then place the locking end of the ziptie into the exhaust port( inside the sleave not threw the exhaust port) enuf to catch the edge of the sleave, so that when you spin the crank and the piston comes up it pushes the sleave out. Might be a better idea to get a wrench that fit's the 1 way and do it manualy, not with the roto start.
Hope this helps Todd
 
Mondragon said:
Try useing a ziptie. put piston at the bottom, heat the engine ,then place the locking end of the ziptie into the exhaust port( inside the sleave not threw the exhaust port) enuf to catch the edge of the sleave, so that when you spin the crank and the piston comes up it pushes the sleave out. Might be a better idea to get a wrench that fit's the 1 way and do it manualy, not with the roto start.
Hope this helps Todd
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I think get what your saying, your saying fill the hole in the piston sleeve with the locking end of a zip tie. From there spin the engine and the piston sleeve will come up higher than normal. i'll try it, thanks.
 
does heating/baking the motors help the sleeve come out? I've got to get my .25 sleeve out, so I can send it to Juiski to have a port, polish, and resize done on it, and it's being decidedly stubborn...
 
yea heating works I had one stuck b4 also I heated the mill up and then droped some a ice cube on the piston and it came out really easy

while you do this yopu can tale a tooth brush and put the end at the edge of t he sleeve and tap it up worked for me
 
UPDATE: I tried what Mondragon said and I got it out a little (I keep decapitating the zipties) but I didn't heat it up. I'll keep you guys posted on what works. I also just sliced my finger on my engine back plate going through 2 layers of skin because I used a wrench like he said. Mondragon you'll be hearing from my lawyer.



kOmOdO67-yes heat loosens the piston sleeve and unless you have insane compressing like mine it should be easy.
 
quick tip, use the biggest (widest) cable tie you can find! talking about at least 1cm width, and keep working it out

youll get there eventually
 
lol sry man, if you use the roto start it could damage it or the roto back plate and seeing how your crank is broke it was the easiest way. figured you would have the engine wrapped in something cas it was hot. Ahh no pain no gain. Time to break out the gloves. But on the brighter side, the sleeve is coming out.
I cannot be held responsible for any injuries sustained for taken my advice. :oops: So did ya get it out?
 
Mondragon said:
lol sry man, if you use the roto start it could damage it or the roto back plate and seeing how your crank is broke it was the easiest way. figured you would have the engine wrapped in something cas it was hot. Ahh no pain no gain. Time to break out the gloves. But on the brighter side, the sleeve is coming out.
I cannot be held responsible for any injuries sustained for taken my advice. :oops: So did ya get it out?
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It's been in the oven at 250 for 27 mins, three minutes the go!
 
cool should come out fairly easy when heated, ive had to do the same thing useing a wrench to turn the 1 way, lol also had my savage bite me while I was wrenching on it a few times. Still sry man unexpected thing happen sometime's.
How did you manage to brake the crank?
 
photos on the way! I snapped the crank because the engine slid and the cb and spur locked up. My engine plate was cracked, CLEANING YOUR TRUCK EVERY SO OFTEN HELPS FIND BROKEN PARTS AND WILL SAVE YOU MONEY IN THE LONG RUN!
 
I got the sleeve and the piston out! hooray! BUT, I can't get the broken back end of the crank out, the end with the counter weight. Does it require some heavy pounding to get it out of there?
DSC00734.jpg

DSC00730.jpg

DSC00727.jpg
 
I'm gonna try to knock it out, wish me luck.
 
Ouch.. Not sure on that 1.. did it disform the crank jurnal area? if so then the rear bearing's are not going to survive. If that is the case take something thats not goning to dammage the block, if it sliped to the side, that you can use like a punch , heat the engine again, place the block on a good peace of wood rear side down and pop it out. should come out bearing and all realativly easy.
 
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I would like to thank everyone who helped me today. I got the crankshaft out and here is a picture of it.

Mondragon- The bearing seems fine so I'm happy about that looks like all I need is an $8 crankshaft and a new bearing that goes behind the flywheel.

THANKS ALL!

DSC00735.jpg
 
[hs] darkshine;14834 said:
it might be a pig to drift out, but for the cost of a rear bearing, i'd replace that as well...my 2c
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Cool thanks.

Keep an eye peeled for the rebuild of my engine.
 
cool. it's just where the crank went was close to the rear bearing race/seat on the crank, so for the sake of a rear bearing, i'd replace it, you don't know how the crank snapping affected the bearing. it wouldn't do for the bearing to come apart at a wot run....:nutshot: it might be fine, but for me, i wouldn't run the risk.
 
[hs] darkshine;14838 said:
cool. it's just where the crank went was close to the rear bearing race/seat on the crank, so for the sake of a rear bearing, i'd replace it, you don't know how the crank snapping affected the bearing. it wouldn't do for the bearing to come apart at a wot run....:nutshot: it might be fine, but for me, i wouldn't run the risk.
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I think it's a good idea. Because let's be honest after all this do I really want to have to strip this engine down again? Ahhh.................no!
 
LOl hey look on ebay some times you can get a new block with bearings, for the same price as buying bearing, then no hassle haveing to put them in.Just an idea, might be worth looking into. Glad you got it apart.
hey the 4.1 and the .25 may use the same block, you coud ask hpi. if so there is a .25 block new on ebay cheap, i know they use the same backplate.
 
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disregard what i said... i misread...

if yours isn't a .25, that block won't work...

edit: they do??
 
I'm not sure best to ask hpi, but the 4.1 is a .25 that has been updated, it does have the same back plate as the s .25 so there is a farly good chance there the same block, just diffrent timeing on the crank and sleave. I cant tell you it's the same for sure, have to ask hpi.but wouldnt hurt to ask.
check out TKO bearing's. http://tkocompetitiondev.com/shop/index.php nice bearing's
 
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