timatworksg
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 149
- Location
- Singapore
Hello everyone!
Just joined this wonderful community, where without, I wouldn't have gotten my Savage to be where it is today. I snagged a used X 4.6 (purple hardware) from someone who didn't badly abuse it but never gave it any TLC since he bought it. It came with alot of spare plastic parts and some other bits which was a pretty good deal in the end.
I proceeded to strip it down to it's last bearing and bolt, cleaned everything, re-greased and re-oiled and put her back together replacing with a few new parts here and there. During initial test runs I noticed the dreaded HTL!! Arrgh!
Having this forum to turn to, I started looking into a way to solve it with the solutions posted. As my Savage isn't the XL TVP, OFNA tank mount wasn't possible. Couldn't find a suitable one-way valve at my LHS for the Uniflow Mod and didn't want to wait for any overseas orders being near to the Xmas season. I decided to risk it and got hold of an OFNA (Hobao over here) 250cc tank and started to visualize hoping for the best. The thought of a larger cc tank and being mid-mount was more appealing to me. I could have ordered the FLM TVP's but I have a spare pair of TVP's which came with the deal. Not wanting to spend anymore money, I came up with this solution.
It's not the best, but it worked for me and I hope it will help others here with the non XL TVP's and/or spur new ideas perhaps! I have tested it with several runs and no more HTL issues anymore, which was the aim. I can now tune the engine properly. Here's how I did mine.
I decided to use the electronics box as a base and removed the cover. I found some Aluminum strips 265mm X 20mm X 2mm and started to bend them into brackets on my mini bench vice. The brackets are secured to the electronics box with some appropriate length M3 screws and lock nuts. One bracket is mounted to the center of the box with the front bracket in the battery bay area with a single nut and bolt.
The front bracket doesn't touch the shock tower and so far has not chipped it when bashed. So far so good I guess..lol. The little blue pieces are small foam blocks cut from a square of kids play mat. Glued on, they support the flat end of the fuel tank also helping level it out. The ON/OFF switch is screwed into a piece of Coroplast cut to fit the area where the Throttle Servo sat in. I used servo screws to hold the coroplast down.
The little black box is a small RX box (which buggy/car) I dunno, I found at my LHS. I drilled 2 holes into it's back and cable tied the box strapping it around a part of the TVP. Some sanding had to be done to ensure the box sat flat and stable against the TVP. I then found the antenna holder, cut it off, drilled a hole into the RX box cover, shoved it thru and CA'd it into place. Rather then cut a new hole in the bodyshell, I gently heated the antenna tube and curved it instead.
The Throttle servo had to be replace, so I cut a small rectangle of aluminum to fit the area of the TVP where the stock fuel tank was.
I happen to have 2 small pieces of aluminum which were fabricated as servo holders for another project and decided to use them here instead. They are mounted to the Alum plate with the smaller black screws. The cable ties hold the servo wire down. I had to sand the engine stop piece a little to allow it to sit flat.
Below is how everything pretty much sits. The fuel tank brackets were drilled to bolt on X2 M3 screws to act as the tank holder posts. Currently, I am holding the tank down with 2 long nylon M3 post which I screw down to hold the tank in place. The Tank sits high but no issues thus far and clears the bodyshell with alot of space!
What my baby looks like now.
I think I covered all I could. Sorry if I don't have more detailed pics but if anyone has any questions, I'll be glad to answer them as well as I can.
Some things I learnt are ;
- Bending the base L of the brackets first to get an idea of where to mount them helps. Once you got that, you can bend the second L which supports the tank.
- The brackets are off-set as the tank has a little protrusion below (the intake filter) and the mounting holes are not squared. So test fit, test fit, test fit before drilling...lol!
The HTL is gone which is what I was aiming for. The Tank sits secure and doesn't wobble or wanna fall off!
Only hassle is, I am using the battery bay area for my hump pack, so everytime I will need to remove the tank to put the battery in. I have the hump pack in a ballon for now, and I may do a simple cover out of Coroplast in the future. For now, it's a small hassle to remove, put battery, and replace....but it works for me and not hard to do.
I'll end here for now! Hope this helps or at least contributes to more ideas or spurs the creative juices even more. Just a simple hack to allow me to use a 250cc tank, have it mid mounted and not have to order something for a re-build.
Lastly, any typos, errors, bad explanations....please forgive me. Typing while the kids are chatting away!
Cheers all!
Tim
Just joined this wonderful community, where without, I wouldn't have gotten my Savage to be where it is today. I snagged a used X 4.6 (purple hardware) from someone who didn't badly abuse it but never gave it any TLC since he bought it. It came with alot of spare plastic parts and some other bits which was a pretty good deal in the end.
I proceeded to strip it down to it's last bearing and bolt, cleaned everything, re-greased and re-oiled and put her back together replacing with a few new parts here and there. During initial test runs I noticed the dreaded HTL!! Arrgh!
Having this forum to turn to, I started looking into a way to solve it with the solutions posted. As my Savage isn't the XL TVP, OFNA tank mount wasn't possible. Couldn't find a suitable one-way valve at my LHS for the Uniflow Mod and didn't want to wait for any overseas orders being near to the Xmas season. I decided to risk it and got hold of an OFNA (Hobao over here) 250cc tank and started to visualize hoping for the best. The thought of a larger cc tank and being mid-mount was more appealing to me. I could have ordered the FLM TVP's but I have a spare pair of TVP's which came with the deal. Not wanting to spend anymore money, I came up with this solution.
It's not the best, but it worked for me and I hope it will help others here with the non XL TVP's and/or spur new ideas perhaps! I have tested it with several runs and no more HTL issues anymore, which was the aim. I can now tune the engine properly. Here's how I did mine.
I decided to use the electronics box as a base and removed the cover. I found some Aluminum strips 265mm X 20mm X 2mm and started to bend them into brackets on my mini bench vice. The brackets are secured to the electronics box with some appropriate length M3 screws and lock nuts. One bracket is mounted to the center of the box with the front bracket in the battery bay area with a single nut and bolt.
The front bracket doesn't touch the shock tower and so far has not chipped it when bashed. So far so good I guess..lol. The little blue pieces are small foam blocks cut from a square of kids play mat. Glued on, they support the flat end of the fuel tank also helping level it out. The ON/OFF switch is screwed into a piece of Coroplast cut to fit the area where the Throttle Servo sat in. I used servo screws to hold the coroplast down.
The little black box is a small RX box (which buggy/car) I dunno, I found at my LHS. I drilled 2 holes into it's back and cable tied the box strapping it around a part of the TVP. Some sanding had to be done to ensure the box sat flat and stable against the TVP. I then found the antenna holder, cut it off, drilled a hole into the RX box cover, shoved it thru and CA'd it into place. Rather then cut a new hole in the bodyshell, I gently heated the antenna tube and curved it instead.
The Throttle servo had to be replace, so I cut a small rectangle of aluminum to fit the area of the TVP where the stock fuel tank was.
I happen to have 2 small pieces of aluminum which were fabricated as servo holders for another project and decided to use them here instead. They are mounted to the Alum plate with the smaller black screws. The cable ties hold the servo wire down. I had to sand the engine stop piece a little to allow it to sit flat.
Below is how everything pretty much sits. The fuel tank brackets were drilled to bolt on X2 M3 screws to act as the tank holder posts. Currently, I am holding the tank down with 2 long nylon M3 post which I screw down to hold the tank in place. The Tank sits high but no issues thus far and clears the bodyshell with alot of space!
What my baby looks like now.
I think I covered all I could. Sorry if I don't have more detailed pics but if anyone has any questions, I'll be glad to answer them as well as I can.
Some things I learnt are ;
- Bending the base L of the brackets first to get an idea of where to mount them helps. Once you got that, you can bend the second L which supports the tank.
- The brackets are off-set as the tank has a little protrusion below (the intake filter) and the mounting holes are not squared. So test fit, test fit, test fit before drilling...lol!
The HTL is gone which is what I was aiming for. The Tank sits secure and doesn't wobble or wanna fall off!
Only hassle is, I am using the battery bay area for my hump pack, so everytime I will need to remove the tank to put the battery in. I have the hump pack in a ballon for now, and I may do a simple cover out of Coroplast in the future. For now, it's a small hassle to remove, put battery, and replace....but it works for me and not hard to do.
I'll end here for now! Hope this helps or at least contributes to more ideas or spurs the creative juices even more. Just a simple hack to allow me to use a 250cc tank, have it mid mounted and not have to order something for a re-build.
Lastly, any typos, errors, bad explanations....please forgive me. Typing while the kids are chatting away!
Cheers all!
Tim
