My K4.6 stalls when throttle is applied

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Montréal (South Shore), Québec, Canada
OK, so I finally (after about a month!) got my o-ring kit and some other parts I ordered (diff gaskets, diff case, etc., stuff that prevented my Savage to run at all) and today my Savy was ready to run. I went to my local quarry to try and run it.

I started it and it sounded weak and "rough" to me, almost stalling. As soon as I applied a bit of throttle (very very little) the engine stalled. I have just sealed my engine real good (I think), including all the needles which are flush/stock.

Damn, it has been almost a month and a half since I could run my Savage, and that's just after my break-in. I hope to get this fixed soon! This is very VERY ******* frustrating... (sorry, I know I shouldn't vent here, I'll go punch/kick something right after posting this!)

One more thing... the pullstater punched a hole in my fuel tank when my engine stalled. Another wonderful 2 weeks waiting for a part to arrive. In the meantime I patched it with some sealant and plastic pieces. It worked at first, but after a while the pressure punctured the sealant. Anyway, the engine behaved the same way even when the tank was OK so I guess this must not be the problem.... or is it? The hole was not there before, I had taken steps to make sure it was 100% airtight while waiting for my o-ring kit.

Also note that I changed my glow plug for a brand new one and it did not change a thing.

I have a few hopeless questions:

1- With all due respect, I guess many of you would tell me my engine is too rich as this seems to be the most common answer in these "stalling when throttle is applied" posts. Is it possible my engine is running too rich with the stock needle settings? Previously it ran fine this way (during break-in). I didn't try to lean it because I supposed it should still start and run fine, without much power of course.

2- What about the tank issue I posted up there ^^^^^^? I think the tank must have been punctured by the 3rd or 4th time the engine stalled. The engine behaved the same all the time.

3- The engine resisted to a little bit of throttle with the wheels off the ground. What about that?

Thanks in advance for any hints, I need those since I'm out of ideas.

P.S: I could post a video of this after fixing my tank again using something else, if you think this could help you help me, then let me know!

:resp:
 
(prior to modding) my F needed almost a full turn from flush to even start up correctly.
:smilie8:​
 
How did the pullstart punch a hole in the fuel tank? My guess is that hole has been there for a while and you just noticed it. Probably put that hole in the tank because the end of the shock bolt poked a hole in it after landing a jump.


Yes, you are running too rich
 
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frddyj said:
(prior to modding) my F needed almost a full turn from flush to even start up correctly.
:smilie8:​
Click to expand...

Interesting! Maybe it worked well before because it wasn't sealed correctly, thus running leaner than it should have been (i.e.: working OK when it should have been stalling like it does now).

Did your engine behave like this with the needles flush?

AllanQ said:
How did the pullstart punch a hole in the fuel tank? My guess is that hole has been there for a while and you just noticed it. Probably put that hole in the tank because the end of the shock bolt poked a hole in it after landing a jump.


Yes, you are running too rich
Click to expand...

Ok, so I'll lean it a bit then!

As I said in my first post the hole wasn't there before; I made sure the tank was airtight before I got the o-rings to repair my engine, and it's the first time I ran it since then.

I don't know about your engine, but mine (K4.6) tends to pull the pullstarter in when the engine stalls (or say when I pull it a few times and it starts for a split second). This made the pullstater handle punch the fuel tank and made a hole in it. I didn't even get to jump it yet so this must not have been the shock tower's fault! Plus the bolt is reversed so this should be even less probable.

--

Honestly I have had quite a bit of problems (stock shocks, stock a-arms, teared engine o-rings and now the fuel tank, with almost no run time on the savage). So maybe I'm overreacting a bit with this issue. There must also be a link of some kind to me having less and less money and no internship in sight due to the economic crisis..!

:$broke:

I'll try to fix my fuel tank tonight with some other glue/sealant (what do you recommend?) and I'll run it again tomorrow and report back here if it works with a leaner mixture (hopefully!).
 
I have 2 axial .28's (same as the K4.6) and I know the engine occasionally tugs on the pull starter, I just never have seen it pull so hard to punch a hole in the tank. i have used shoo goo to fix cracks in the tank, I tend to toss them in the trash if it has a hole in it.
 
The damn nitro fuel eats through every sealant I try to use on the tank. I guess I'm going to have to wait until my order gets here. I did try to lean my engine a *bit* while testing the tank fix and it SEEMED to help. Unfortunately my glow plug igniter's battery died on the scene so I couldn't continue testing.

I'll report back when I get the tank. Let's hope it works!
 
threebond 1211 is nitro proof and in my opinion the only sealant that should be used on a RC period (mill, tank, carbs)

Where are you located? I can geo locate you but that is too easy. I am willing to buy and ship to you if it is economical to you. I can and will send as gifts to keep you from being taxed and you can pay pal me as gift to knock out that fee... that wont help ship times but can save money for you in the end. LMK

I traced you to Canada... whats the parts issue up there?
 
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heres my 2 cents worth of info.. hope it helps you out ... obviously your still way to rich, turn your hsn-high speed needle the one the fuel line goes into. turn it in 1/8 turn clockwise and see if that helps . if not try turning it a little more each time then try starting it again ... you might want to check your glow plug .. it might be good enough to try to start it but running really rich might be drowning it out if its weak. make sure its glowing really really good if not swap it out.another thing you might want to check is the idle if its to low the carb isnt opened enough to start and run. should have a gap in the barrel around 1mm wide . you might want to try snipping off the tips of your fuel lines and sticking them back onto the nipples to ensure your getting good seals on the nipples. i hope this helps you out .. i hate when a truck is down and all you want to do is be able to run it and cant ..it makes you hate the hobby.. hope you get it up and running soon good luck.. and happy bashn..
 
Bankrupter said:
threebond 1211 is nitro proof and in my opinion the only sealant that should be used on a RC period (mill, tank, carbs)

Where are you located? I can geo locate you but that is too easy. I am willing to buy and ship to you if it is economical to you. I can and will send as gifts to keep you from being taxed and you can pay pal me as gift to knock out that fee... that wont help ship times but can save money for you in the end. LMK

I traced you to Canada... whats the parts issue up there?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer Bank. What does that product look like? Does it act like glue or is it more of a soft silicone sealant? One of the products I tried (Seal-All) was the soft silicone sealant kind and although it was (officially) oil & gaz resistant it could not withstand the pressure in the tank and did not stick to the plastic very well. What I did was apply a coat of sealant around the hole and press a plastic plate covered with the same sealant over it to cover the hole, then let it dry for about 24hrs.

maximusraylius said:
heres my 2 cents worth of info.. hope it helps you out ... obviously your still way to rich, turn your hsn-high speed needle the one the fuel line goes into. turn it in 1/8 turn clockwise and see if that helps . if not try turning it a little more each time then try starting it again ... you might want to check your glow plug .. it might be good enough to try to start it but running really rich might be drowning it out if its weak. make sure its glowing really really good if not swap it out.another thing you might want to check is the idle if its to low the carb isnt opened enough to start and run. should have a gap in the barrel around 1mm wide . you might want to try snipping off the tips of your fuel lines and sticking them back onto the nipples to ensure your getting good seals on the nipples. i hope this helps you out .. i hate when a truck is down and all you want to do is be able to run it and cant ..it makes you hate the hobby.. hope you get it up and running soon good luck.. and happy bashn..
Click to expand...

I changed my glow plug the other day and it was indeed not in ideal condition, although it didn't seem to make a big difference on the engine starting / idling. The idle screw and my linkages are OK, and my tubing has been replaced a few days ago so I don't think that's the problem. But those were all likely candidates, thanks for the tips!

I ordered a new fuel tank from SMF which should arrive next week or the one after that. I'd love to be able to run my savy until then though!
 
try CA to bond the parts then seal it after. and it is a semi hard but will bond to a degree
 
Just when I thought I could finally run it...

IMG_1761.JPG


Well, I leaned it a bit and it started after a short while, but then it ran lean and kept overheating so I shut it down. Then I tried to start it back and the pullstarter broke. My god..

I hope I can repair it because I sure am not looking forward to waiting another two damned weeks.
 
I have my XL 1 3/8 turn clockwise from stock and it is still a little rich but if I try to go leaner it does not want to start or stay running. Could this be because the engine is still new? Only about 7 tanks through it including the break-in.
 
Update: Right after I unscrewed a few of the screws holding the pullstarter on the engine, the cord retracted and the pullstarter now seems to works OK. Did yours ever do that? I mean, it would suck to have to frequently remove the engine to unstick this.

It's getting a bit late now so I guess I'll be running the savy tomorrow and I'll report back on how it fares then.

Just by curiosity, for those of you who own or owned a K4.6, how many turns from stock do you set your HSN at approximately for it to "work" OK, not necessarily the best it could but just run normally without being too rich?

dance kitty
 
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