my "break" in

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dewie

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Hey guys, I'm a complete newbie when it comes to RC stuff so hang with me. I just bought a 4.6 savage and want to swallow the buisness end of a shot gun haha.. Me and a buddy who has a savage set it up, when it first fired up it was at normal idle then started screaming then back to normal then screaming again. After time it settled down and we noticed the spur gear was all ready stripped with out even driving it yet!!! So the hobbie shop gave me a new a gear and I was ready for driving it in circles.

I fired it up and the steering and gas was intermidant but figured it would settledown but didn't, it stalled and died. I tried to start it and wouldn't fired, then the one way bearing failed!!!! I'm told if the mixture is to rich these bearings break, so $16 later I pulled the motor and dropped it in.

Now here is my problem, after putting the new bearing in I wanted to see if it would rotate before I went thru the hassle if putting it back into the chassis and hooking up fuel lines. And guess what the rotostart can't move it!! It doesn't turn over at all. Did I install it wrong or what? I don't want to hear I blew the motor all ready.

Spent hours pulling the tranny and engine and drove it 3 circles on my driveway..
 
should I try turning the shaft?

When I had the gears sitting in the housing everything turned fine then once it's bolted on it doesn't turn. wtf
 
Try taking out the glow plug and putting a rag over the cooling head and try turning it over a few times few times and if it still won't turn at all, then check and make sure the one-way bearing isn't in backwards.
 
thanks for all the tips guys. I took it all apart and found those three screws that you locktight that holds the rotostart gears to the block were to tight. So I backed them off and it turned freely. So now do I have to pull the spur gear off again and do the paper trick? And I leaned it out a bit more and it started but doesn't stay running... uuuuggggghhhh..

This has been a love hate realastionship with my car, loved it seeing it in the box, since then i hated it.:sniper2:
 
Sounds like you need to start over tuning from the factory needle settings... Go to the HPI website and try the engine tuning sheets, they are much more detailed than the supplied manual. Although Your engine is roto start you can still use the pull start sheets for tuning.

http://www.hpiracing.com/instructions/#Nitro%20Star%20Engines

You don't have to remove the spur gear to do the paper spacing trick, loosen the engine mounts just enough to allow the engine to slide on the chassis, insert your paper between the spur and CB, gently push the engine evenly towards the spur to the pint you can easily roll the paper in between the spur and CB, then tighten the engine mount screws down.
 
Also when the engine is brand new it may not stay running long,because the piston and sleeve are still to tight to overcome the compression at idle.

you may have to increase the idle a bit and or bump the throttle often to keep it going. I normally shut of the electronics and work the throttle servo by hand during the break in process. Once the engine is finally broke in, then set your idle.

Also make sure your exhaust pressure line to the tank is clean and free of fuel and bleed off any bubbles in the supply fuel line, those two simple things mess up a lot of new Nitro users.
 
For the first tank of brekin,in my experiance starting the mill and it shutting off is not unusual.Got to remmember it is very rich at this point. Driving it at slow and steady may help. If you get to 4or 5 tanks then it may be an issue.Good luck!
 
clouseau said:
Sounds like you need to start over tuning from the factory needle settings... Go to the HPI website and try the engine tuning sheets, they are much more detailed than the supplied manual. Although Your engine is roto start you can still use the pull start sheets for tuning.

http://www.hpiracing.com/instructions/#Nitro%20Star%20Engines

You don't have to remove the spur gear to do the paper spacing trick, loosen the engine mounts just enough to allow the engine to slide on the chassis, insert your paper between the spur and CB, gently push the engine evenly towards the spur to the pint you can easily roll the paper in between the spur and CB, then tighten the engine mount screws down.
Click to expand...

Awesome! thats the info every guy needs in the manual.. I'll start from scratch and see what happens.. Thanks so much
 
nothing changed.. I am new to nitro cars but have a mechanical back ground and this makes no sense. The glow plug is good, gets red hot all the way to the tip. I took the mixture screw till it was flush then turned it down 2-1/2 turns like the book says(not a great tune but it should fire).

The engine turns and turns but it doesn't even try to fire, not even a fart or burb. Like should I be having all these problems for a brand new unit, stripped spur gear on start up(not my fault), and the one way bearing is gone due to a high mixture and I was still at the point where I was using the factory mixture so is that my fault??

Did I get a dud? Think I'm gonna take it back to the hobby shop tomorrow, what do you think?
 
Sorry to hear your having all these problems... But when you do get your truck running I can almost guarantee that all the grief your having now will be long forgotten... with a smile from ear to ear! So just hang in there man!

If your idle, low and high end screws are all set to factory settings...

Remove the air filter assembly in a clean environment and try dropping a small drop of fuel directly into the carb. If it don't fire then... and you have a good glow plug and fully charged ignitor, then you got problems.

Honestly if the hobby shop where you purchased your truck from also services them. I would bring your truck there if they have someone who really knows and races with Nitro engines show you the ropes.
 
well I was reading some old post and seen it's not good to leave nitro in the system for a long time. It was in there for a week so I swaped fuel and it actually fired up, idle smooth for a bit then as it warmed up the revs went off the charts. It stripped the damn spur gear again cause of the crazy idle!!! uuugggghhhhh

I accepted defeat and took it to the hobby shop and it will be ready tomorrow. As long as the tune is in the ball park I should be able to fine tune if need be, but lets hope not.
 
well I got it back from the hobbie shop and he got it to run, and looks like he rolled it a few times by all the scratches on it. But it takes forever to fire up like 5 min. Then once the heat is built up it starts.

and it stalls out when ever I give it more than 1/2 throttle, I turned the trim right down and it still stalls out when ever I tap on the throttle.. I don't know, guess I got some reading to do. just wish I could enjoy my purchase for a bit.
 
Sounds like they got it to run enough to beat on it,but never tuned it.Id say see if you can find another hs to get it right.
 
nitrobashin said:
Sounds like they got it to run enough to beat on it,but never tuned it.Id say see if you can find another hs to get it right.
Click to expand...

I would LOVE to take to someone else but in my city thats the only shop. Its still dying when I give it more than 1/2 throttle, so guys how many turns is your mixture screw from bottom? I've leaned it out a lot since I got it back from the shop but it doesn't seem to make any differance..
 
I can only think to set it to factory (3 3/4 turns out high speed and the same for low speed needle) the low speed i would lean out a little just enough to keep it running. high speed should be good for a tank. take your time it will be very slugish. It sounds like your to lean now.Goal now should be to get it to run a tank. very slow,Hope it helps Good luck
 
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