Mid range needle/ tune question

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W

WJC

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250
Location
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Ok guys I broke in my motor and tuned it so she was running good. Well today I started the truck up and she kept stalling. So adjusted the carb and she seems to idle just fine. Well when I primed the motor for the second time I noticed fuel leaking out of the mid range needle. When I started running the truck she kept stalling out as I gave her throttle almost like she was way to rich. She is not lean she's not sputtering it's really Rich I have my HSN needle turned one full turn in. I know I can lean her out some more but it was very humid today so I can see why I would have to lean her out a bit. Do you guys have any idea what the setting is on that mid range needle. Or do you think this leek cod be causing the problem?
 
definitely doesnt sound good. what mill? if your leaking out of your hsn you should correct that before you try for a tune, might be a bad o-ring
 
Sorry about that. I'm keeling throug the mid range needle. I have the k 4.6
 
Put some RTV on it, and screw it into the carb and keep it flush with the housing. The RTV will dry and act as a way of sealant and keeping it in the carb.
 
So in other words take the needle out and then put some RTV into the carb then around it for extra safety? I know you said flush but is there a setting so I know for sure?
 
I know wasn't thinking when I ask. Sorry about that. My question is I can see if its flush. I don't know if it walked on me or not. Guess I'll fool with it later.
 
I got it flush going to seal it up. Thanks guys for all your help.
 
OK I figured it out. I don't think my Mid range needle walked on me at all. The truck wants to bog down around second gear it's like there is to much gas getting to the carb at that point, but once It got up to temp I leaned her out a bit and she shifted smoothly. Seems to take a while for her to wake up.
 
XL Engine Mid-Range needle issue

I have a 2 month old XL that I broke in properly. I was out last night and began having stalling/bogging issues and I just happened to notice that the mid range needle was very loose and over a millimeter out from flush (I did not adjust it). I turned it back to flush and it seemed to fix the problem, however the needle is still very loose. I called HPI this morning and the rep said that she has not heard of any mid range needles coming loose.
Have any other of you also experianced this issue?
Also, could taking out the needle and putting a little thread lock on the threads cause any issues down the road?

Thanks, Scott
 
i don't own a xl but yes i've heard that happening to alot of people, most here just set the mid range needle and seal it shut so it doesnt move anymore and never touch it again, if you wait here a bit someone can give you a bit more advice as to what to use to seal it in place!! hope this helps a bit!! and welcome to the forum salsop, glad to have you here with us!!!!!
 
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The msn is set from factory and should not be messed with, It sets where the spray bar sits in the carb and is usually bang on for best performance. You can't play with this needle without adjusting the lsn to counteract the adjustments as they go hand in hand. HPI must know of this issue because a lot of people have them fall right out! I would set it to flush, clean very well with alcohol and put some sealant over the whole face of that side of the carb, try and get the sealant into the slot for the screw driver and as deep into the groove between the needle and housing, you should be good to go. My buddy's kid's truck would shoot fuel right out of this spot until we sealed it, all the tuning issues were gone the next time he fired it up.
 
Purenitro said:
The msn is set from factory and should not be messed with, It sets where the spray bar sits in the carb and is usually bang on for best performance. You can't play with this needle without adjusting the lsn to counteract the adjustments as they go hand in hand. HPI must know of this issue because a lot of people have them fall right out! I would set it to flush, clean very well with alcohol and put some sealant over the whole face of that side of the carb, try and get the sealant into the slot for the screw driver and as deep into the groove between the needle and housing, you should be good to go. My buddy's kid's truck would shoot fuel right out of this spot until we sealed it, all the tuning issues were gone the next time he fired it up.
Click to expand...

Ya that fuel thing has happend to me only once. It has never happend again but, I know I can seal it up with High temp sealer but I really don't want to take the needle off to put any around the inner portion of that needle. I guess I'll seal it up as best as I can from the outside and try to get as much as possable inside the crevis of the needle before sealing up around the whole thing.
 
Thanks for the info. Any ideas as to what a good high temp. sealer would be to use on the outside of the mid-range needle?

Also, I have had an original Savage 21 for about 6 years now and totally rebuilt it two winters ago. It still runs great and the only problems I have had with it are normal wear and tear (and bash) issues. So far I have had more issues with the Savage XL in the first two months.

Scott
 
USE the Permatex ultra copper High Temp RTV silicone gasket maker. you can get it at any automotive store.
 
OK I started to install the fiber brake kit on my savage and deceided to inspect my Mid range needle. I was going to seal it up with my High temp sealer and noticed that it walked on me quite a bit. I noticed that the screw was very loose. Didn't seem loose when I first checked it but it's loose alright. almost one and a half turns in, well I sealled her up and i'll see what happends. Now I kinda understand why my tune was so off, hope thats all it was. In one of my earlier posts I mentiond that I thought the needle walked a little on me then noticed it didn't. When I tried to turn the screw back to flush it was really tight so I put it flush and left it alone. I'm glade I checked it last night.
 
salsop said:
Thanks for the info. Any ideas as to what a good high temp. sealer would be to use on the outside of the mid-range needle?

Also, I have had an original Savage 21 for about 6 years now and totally rebuilt it two winters ago. It still runs great and the only problems I have had with it are normal wear and tear (and bash) issues. So far I have had more issues with the Savage XL in the first two months.

Scott
Click to expand...

three bond 1211, hondabond, yamabond.. all the same stuff. don't use RTV
 
RTV is fine for outside the engine, it is not fuel proof but for a topical sealant it will work. 1211 is fuel proof but 3-4 times more expensive, for the amount you would use it's not that cost effective. If you do use RTV just keep an eye on it, I used to use it and never had any issues but if it does come in contact with fuel it will break down eventually.

Edit.. Alan beat me lol.
 
Yes I understand. I have had this happen before with some of my other trucks. I still might invest in some.
 
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