Mechanical Brakes For Flux... List of parts needed?

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J1A1H

Well-Known Member
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Helllllllloooo hpisfflash This isnt a complete writeup as of yet... I haven't completed this, although some others have. This is just to help others as well as myself in what parts are needed etc......

Ok BA and Frdy and otehrs have mentioned that reverse is for noobs and that the flux should utilise the mechanical braking system found on the Nitro savages as to not put any unwanted pressure on our ESCs and Motors.........:beer:

So i want to put together a list of EVERYTHING that would be needed to put some brakes on the flux... It will work differently for all depending on your motor setup.

I am running a DB-17 chassis with my motor mounted at the front...
Here is a pic of the layout...



PARTS LIST:

Obviously you are going to need a servo...
My question is...
Can i utilise my old SF-5 Steering servo which is analog to be my brake servo?

Now the first thing i have done is ordered some decent servo mounts from GCM as everything else i have is from them anyway, but i am sure you can get hold of FLM Mounts etc....

I like GCM as you can see them pictured below (iphone pic sorry)

Where you can buy them:
http://gcmachine.ca/index.php/shop/rb2x They state its for an RB2x but they are all the same....

- HPI Racing Fiberglass Dual Disk Brake Kit Savage
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSGF1
87055_02.jpg

Isnt this the upgrade to the picture below?
Is it worth forking out the extra money for these?
87150_03.jpg


- Ofna Brake/Throttle Linkage (you will only be using the brake linkage.) PLEASE ADVICE WHAT THE IDEAL OFNA LINKAGE WOULD BE...
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBZD1&P=7
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/OFNA-10724-SERVO-THROTTLE-BRAKE-LINKAGE-KIT-BLUE-NIB_W0QQitemZ290411208221QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio_Control_Parts_Accessories?hash=item439ddb5e1d#ht_1419wt_939
ofnc3800.jpg


- HPI NITRO SAVAGE BRAKE CAM AND PISTON 21/25/X/XSS
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HPI-NITRO-SAVAGE-BRAKE-CAM-AND-PISTON-21-25-X-XSS_W0QQitemZ190385057252QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN?hash=item2c53d56de4#ht_674wt_939
86930_01x.jpg


FOR UK PEEPS:
NEW HPI SAVAGE XL 5.9 X DUAL FIBERGLASS BRAKE & Piston/cam Set.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NEW-HPI-SAVAGE-XL-5-9-X-DUAL-FIBERGLASS-BRAKE-4-6-SALE_W0QQitemZ200457711996QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_ToysGames_RadioControlled_JN?hash=item2eac35f17c#ht_578wt_1165

Is that everything needed??? Is the linkage between the ofna brake mod and the cam included in any of those packages? or is that something we can fab up?

I heard there are other things that need to be done to get this working on the FLUX....
What needs to be done to disable engine braking and how to get the new servo working with the 3rd channel on your receiver?

SO THATS ALL THE PARTS LISTED.....:getdown:

Installation....

Here are some pictures of how bank did it so you get an idea of what your trying to achieve... Bear in mind you should only look at the BRAKE SETUP not the throttle........
DSC_0043-edit4thread.jpg


15rnpl1.jpg


I wasn't exactly sure how i was going to go about doing this... Here are some pics relating to the DB-17...

I was originally thinking about mounting the second servo above my steering one like so:
IMG_0284edit.jpg


But thought this would make it a little too vulnerable... So i think this is the best place. It doesn't interfere with the spur gear, so this is probably where it will be mounted... Any objections?
IMG_0286edit.jpg



Anyway Help & Advice is needed to complete this so i can do a detailed write up of how it all goes together when my parts arrive....
 
Frdy and otehrs have mentioned that reverse is for noobs

lol

great write up. ba or br can put in a pic of the y-harness & that.

not sure how/why youd use br throttle mod and not a single arm where you only gonna have a brake linkage. not sure what you mean.
 
Not the cleanest write up... but once i get the parts ill do a step by step tutorial

I was only going to use a single arm.. .the other pictures are just there for an idea...
hopefully BA or BR will help with the harness..
 
Okay just figured I would add a few tips.

1) make sure you go into your esc and turn drag break and break/reverse strength to 0.

2) using a y harnins is going to cause isues as your esc is pumping power backwards to power the RX you need to do this using a 3rd channel and mixing it with the t/b (channel 2) (1 to turn 2 to burn)

3)by doing this it will allow you to run a standard nitro trans if you wanted and get 2 or 3 speed gearbox's on a flux if you wished.
 
You should also think about adjusting the throttle profile in your esc to soften the lowend. This will do a few things. 1 stop those backflips and cut down on wheelies. 2 save your trans and other drive train parts from being blown to peices.

You can also adjust the timing of the motor to cut down on lowend tq and actually give you more topend at the same time.

Both of these will cut down on amp draw and extend the life of your esc, batteries and drive train.
 
Once you have seperat breaks and aren't using the motor to break you can run two or three speed gear sets in the flux. You couldn't before because the oneway would keep the breaks from working.
 
Once you have seperat breaks and aren't using the motor to break you can run two or three speed gear sets in the flux. You couldn't before because the oneway would keep the breaks from working.


I'm not understanding something here. Can you clarify it for me?

Correct me if I'm wrong but didnt we take out the one-way bearing to mod the flux? I mean, it has reverse.
 
Yea but once you add mech breaks that are mixed with the t/b you can't use reverse anyway so having a oneway trans won't matter anymore.
 
I'm not understanding something here. Can you clarify it for me?

Correct me if I'm wrong but didnt we take out the one-way bearing to mod the flux? I mean, it has reverse.

Alex id come to your rescue but your doing ok ... Reverse is for noobs IMO ..
 
Alex id come to your rescue but your doing ok ... Reverse is for noobs IMO ..

here's an idea: go back & read s-l-o-w-l-y, we've already determined that reverse is for noobs & i don't understand what alex was saying.

The both of you obviously have VAST r/c knowledge that others here are trying to catch up on (you can tell caz your trucks are identical).

so lighten up 😛
 
here's an idea: go back & read s-l-o-w-l-y, we've already determined that reverse is for noobs & i don't understand what alex was saying.

The both of you obviously have VAST r/c knowledge that others here are trying to catch up on (you can tell caz your trucks are identical).

so lighten up 😛

I did read this. Alex has said nothing wrong. he has answered all the questions so far and I am agreeing with him 99.99 % It appears people are trying to poke at him for fun. our identical nitro trucks have nothing to do with this thread. This is all set up for electric. He may not have a flux but he knows whats going on here 4 sure ...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
people suck


Anyway, is this everything that is needed to do this conversion? can someone please elaborate more and possibly part numbers for all of us who want to do this mod... Thank you
 
I'm buying a few things from hobby king, can i get this wire Y harness there? And while I'm buying anything from there... do you recommend me getting thing?
 
GHZ radio... and i wanted to use my stock steering servo that came with the fluc which is anaglog... is this possible?
 
You are going to have issues because of the bec in the esc that powers the rx using a y harness you really need to run the break servo on a 3rd channel. Most radio's you can mix the 3rd channel with the 2nd channel so it works both off the t/b trigger.
 
So what needs to be done in order to get this to work correctly?
 
i have a 3rd channel but i would have to check if it was a mixer.
 
You are going to have issues because of the bec in the esc that powers the rx using a y harness you really need to run the break servo on a 3rd channel. Most radio's you can mix the 3rd channel with the 2nd channel so it works both off the t/b trigger.

i use a Y harness and have no issues. the only thing it does is cause the brake servo to move if your are on brakes or throttle not just brakes.

its easy to hook up J1. take the y harness and look at it. take the side that has one plug and put that one into the RX, then take the two plugs that are left and have one go to the esc and the other to the servo.

you don't HAVE to turn the brakes off with the castle link as they don't really kick in when driving but as a precautionary measure you SHOULD shut them off with the castle link.

sorry i never did a how to... I'm starting to get really busy again.
 

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