LRP .28 one way bearing failure

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texasavage

texasavage

Well-Known Member
Messages
922
Location
Killeen, Texas
Well I tried to break in the lrp today after work. I had to refire a few times. Next thing you know I pull on the pullstart and bam it doesn't retract. Said to myself no way, anyways I pulled off the pullstart and it retracts. Come to find out the darn one way bearing is locked. It turns the crank both ways, has anyone run into this? Is there an easy fix?

If I have to put money into a new mill I'll get it warrantied, but the only # they have in the manuel is in Germany! I found an address for lrp servicing on associated's website but it says for speed controls? I'd really like to talk to someone because I'm pretty upset!
Do I stick with the "no I never opened it up story" all I did was pull the backplate to check for metal shavings and then threadlock.

:cussing:

Thanks, Tobias
 
ohhh that sux ...my lrp did something simular ..the owb slipped a lil and the starter pin mard the groove so it kept locking up..i turned it around it works fine now ... maybe you can try soaking it in alcholhol and see if it breaks lose. if not itll be clean .. as far as the story thats always a touchy one to call on..try looking on e bay for a bearing they are hard to find..

http://cgi.ebay.com/LRP-Z-28R-Spec-...66:2|39:1|72:1205|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50


good luck..
 
Thanks! I'll try to soak it in some denatured alcohol. Didn't even think about that, my brain just locked up from being so upset.
 
Will do, she's soaking right now. Just sucks not even being able to do one tank.
Anyone delt with the warranty with LRP yet?
 
Well soaking didn't work. Accually I had to soak the whole rear backplate because the owb didn't come off. My surefire had a similar setup and it slid right off. I didn't want to force anything before I talked to LRP. Is there some special trick to this?

Anyhow, she's on her way to Associated in Cali right now. I probly couls have fixed myself, but heck its got a warranty so I might as well use it. Time to dig out the ol .25, hopefully she still has some pep in her 🙂

Thanks again for the help
I'll let you know what happens with it.
Tobias
 
Thanks!
Just now back to the waiting game with shipping. They said it should be back in the mail the day after they receive it. When I put it back in the box I noticed it had a piece of scotch tape over the factory sealed sticker ???? Wonder if it was messed with previously, this is only my 2nd mill and the other was factory sealed. I dunno, we'll see
 
I'm kinda havin the same prob. My pullstart detracts but wen I pull it over it only actually turns the mill over Inc and then the rest of the line is slack. I tookoff the backplate, took out the owb and starter shaft and cleaned them cuz they were full of oil and itkeeps slipping. Should I soak the owb in alcohol to clean the rest of the oil off?
 
Hey bud,
On mine the line didn't retract, turns out it was the one way bearing was locked (grabbed both ways with no slip) and when the piston hit more towards top dead center it wouldn't rotate any more (because of the pinch) and the pullstart wouldn't retract anymore. Sounds like yours just needs a couple of extra wraps on the pullstart to get it to retract all the way. As far as the one way slipping the denatured alcohol should get the oils cleaned off, or the one way might be bad. Check out max's ebay link from above for some decent prices on a new one way if that's the case.

Update on mine--> Got a call from corey @ associated last tuesday (even though they received it Friday per usps trking) asking what happened. Explained the same story as I posted, minus me accually pulling off the backplate. Said he is forwarding it to the tech guys. But I still haven't received it back yet, I'd call them back to see what the deal is but I've been working alot of 10-12 hr days (darn middle school flooded with 10 ft of water in the main gear room, so all the electrical is 💩) so my time is pretty limited. We'll see what happens :Xfingers: I'll let you guys know more once I do

Tobias
 
Ok I just soaked my owb and shaft in alcohol and dried them the best I could. All I had was 70% isopropl alcohol. Is that ok?
 
I only use denatured alcohol on internal parts. isopropl alcohol's other active ingredient is purified water, and water can cause rust. although I don't think it hurt it anymore, does it work now?
 
awsome! Glad you got it figured out!

Not sure if the rusting comment is totally accurate, I just read the after run thread in the engines forum talking about rust and I'm not sure what material one ways are made from.

Anyhow, glad your up and running!

Tobias
 
Well the Lrp came back yesterday! Took alot longer than they originally said, but she's back! All it had in the box was an invoice showing a new one way bearing. I just hope I can get a chance to break in this weekend 🙂

During the first attempt I barely got through 1/2 tank and I must have restarted about 6-8 times by then.
What should I do to get it running alittle longer?
What temp should I be hitting at this point? Manuel says 160-190. Shouldn't I be alittle closer to normal temps than that?

Thanks again for all the inputs
Tobias
 
ide bring the temps up to 190 -210 for break in .. but just go slow and easy with it and gradualy increas the temps as you go through tanks. ive tried several different methods of break in with all having the same out come ..its basically a personal preferance . so just go slow but get alot of rich tanks in before you start tuneing it .. but 190-210 is a good starting temp.good luck happy bashn.ohhhh wanted to add... heat the mill up with a blow dryer first to and add after run oil in it so it has less stress on the one way bearing. it starts easier to. do that every time it cools off. before you restart it till you lose some of the pinch ..good luck.
 
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