Lorin's First Time Port & Polish : F4.6

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lorinlewis23

Active Member
Messages
69
Location
US Virgin islands
BEFORE POLISHING: CRANK BORED, PISTON SKIRTED, SLEEVE PORTED
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AFTER POLISHING]
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THIS IS MY FIRST TIME SO I WELCOME ALL ADVICE AND OBSERVATIONS
 
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I haven't a clue to engine modding .. But I was wondering if you think the cuts on the sleeve are a little to deep ?
 
Yeah I do but, we'll see what happens. First time went too deep and I tried to fix it somehow. Either it will be a success or a good example of what not to do. Either way a good lesson will be learned.
 
I would say they are way to deep, but I would stick it back in the block and see how she rolls. Your just going to have longer valving open, not sure if it will affect much or not.
 
remember guys sleeve mods do next to nothing for power, all power gains are in re-timing the engines, not in cuttin fuel grooves......... as well most of the fuel travels along the case channel and enters the port at the top, not the bottom

nice crank drilling by the way !!!!
 
Will do as soon as I get my 1211 to fill the crank and get my truck together. It is getting a major overhaul, Everything from FLM TVPs to those sick graphite shock towers larsen has for sale. Larsen look out for my e-mail today.
 
remember guys sleeve mods do next to nothing for power, all power gains are in re-timing the engines, not in cuttin fuel grooves......... as well most of the fuel travels along the case channel and enters the port at the top, not the bottom

nice crank drilling by the way !!!!

Thanks Nitrojedi
 
Any suggestions for doing more to the crank


Well your best bet is to find out the engines stock timing...from there I or several others can offer you some advice on what to try changing....

Honestly if you like the tinker the best way is to use good old trial and error..... cut a little bit on the crank, then test and make notes....cut a little more, test and take notes... little by little cut the timing into the motor and see how it reacts, you will learn more from that then readin any advice i can offer you... truly half the battle is simple elbow grease and time and just having the gumption to just "Go for it"....... honestly buy some small diamond files and start slowly cutting port timing, its easy...just remember to go slow and test in stages........
 
There is many layers to modifying engines...at first its fun to make engines run faster, add some timing, a few fuel cuts and you can make any ole RTR motor run hard...... But as time goes by and you start to race with these engines you start to see other things that you can improve.... I have found that trigger feel is sometimes more important then peak power..having a engine that responds precisely on and off throttle is likely one of the most needed elements in a track engine... Also to be considered is fuel economy, for a motor to be good for racing it has to be good on fuel..I have seen many modded engines that have terrible trigger response and are absolute pigs on fuel...sure they might scream when they get on pipe, but they sacrifice everything else to do it.... a good modified motor has crisper trigger response, better fuel mileage and all around better running..... anyone can make a motor run faster, but it takes real skill and knowledge to make and all around better motor !!!!
 
I'm sure there is a lot to learn when it comes to this type of work and also; what works on one engine may not work on another. Respect has to be given to the masters of the trade. They are the ones who invested the time to learn as much as they can. I also feel that it is something in which the lerning phase is never finish.
 
I do think there is a little more to it than getting files and grinding away. Unless you really crunch numbers and know what is happening at what point in the cranks rotation you have no idea on if just grinding away is going to help or hurt. That's where the experience comes in. Also most pro guys run some sort of dyno to get a before and after shot to see which way they went with the mod. It looks nice lewis, I hope you get lucky on the mod and it works for ya.
 
Thanks Guys, I do have a question. I installed a new front bearing last night using the oven method of heating the block and freezing the bearing. Is the front seal in the picture ok or is it damaged? I installed it by using a socket and hammer to put pressure around the outer housing.

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Question number two: I filled the crank with 1211 last night. I read in larsen's topic that it is supposed to smooth out on its own. Does this look like it is coming out good or do I need to start over.

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The rubber shield "looks" like it is damaged, I think you may need to get another one and try it again. The shield will probably pop out and let dust/dirt in there and that will cause some big headaches. The second picture down will show you what the ramp should look like, the nice thing with the putty is, you can remove it and start over. By the looks of it, that ramp will do more harm than good. You have to be fast, put it in, get the angle and let it set up. Don't touch it after a few minutes or it will get all bumpy and will not set smooth.

https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8044
 
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Hi sorry I was absent. I just got back on the Island from a trip to orlando, florida. I finished installing a new ceramic front bearing, Refilling the crank the correct way, installing the sleeve and piston and sealing it up. It now has a NOVA cooling head and NOVA clutch with MUGEN 1.0 springs. Cant run it yet cause my truck is being overhauled
( Build project to be posted soon) but, I will post pics for now. Stay tuned
 
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UPDATE !!!

Engine has been re-assembled

Crank filled the correct way

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Assembled and sealed with three bond 1211

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Nova race head

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Ofna force .21-.32 pull start conversion

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Nova race clutch with mugen 1.0 springs

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Now I got to finish the project jeep so I can see how it runs.
 

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