k4.6 super hard to turn, but does..

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Fordperf

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My Savage SS sat for maybe 2 years with no fuel in it, when I decided to fire her back up. But the roto2 starter wouldnt turn the motor.

Couldnt turn the flywheel while the motor was in the chassis, so I pulled it. Took the heatsink off.

Grabbed lockjaws and gently got the flywheel and crank to turn, but even by hand it is hella hard to turn but it does turn. Oh, and the flywheel will turn in both directions--I'm pretty sure that's not supposed to happen? The piston does move up and down, the sleeve doesnt feel rusted or pitted.

It feels tighter than it should, even though I know it needs to still be somewhat tight to make a good seal. Kind of unsure how to proceed here. Thoughts? (when I use the roto start on it in my hand, it turns it over slowly maybe 4 or 5 times before popping the fuse on the starter)
 
Its stiff because its full of gummed up old fuel. And yes with the roto start the engine will spin freely in both directions, nothing to worry about. Take the carb off and take it all apart and clean it. Put a swig of fresh fuel in the crankcase where the carb sits and crank the engine over. It will loosen right up. Reassemble and fire it up. Remember to write down how many turns out the high and low speed needles are on the carb, before you take it apart :)
 
I recomend checking the internal bearing to see if its messed up, I recently had an engine come in with the same symtoms and the bearing was dead. Speaking of that, I don't mean to hijack the thread, but does anyone know a source of crank bearings without getting a while new crank case?
 
I recomend checking the internal bearing to see if its messed up, I recently had an engine come in with the same symtoms and the bearing was dead. Speaking of that, I don't mean to hijack the thread, but does anyone know a source of crank bearings without getting a while new crank case?

Boca bearings , Fasteddy bearings , VXB bearings....
 
Here are my bearings. The rest of the engine was actually pretty clean but gummy.
 

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Ok so I sprayed carb cleaner into the carb, and into the piston, and everything loosened up. Except the crank seems to 'stop' at tdc before moving on, like an indentation on the rotation and is not a smooth 360 rotation. Is that normal?

I did not take off the entire starter cap under plate to spray cleaner into the rod assembly, should I? I assume I would have to re grease everything under there after. I am just concerned there isnt some bearing damage or something.
 
There is supposed to be a pinch on the piston at the top of the stroke since the cylinder is tapered. If it doesn’t do what you are experiencing the piston and sleeve are worn out. It’s a matter of how much pinch there is that determines where the engine is in its life
 
The video isn’t useful the sleeve needs to be completely inserted.
 
There is supposed to be a pinch on the piston at the top of the stroke since the cylinder is tapered. If it doesn’t do what you are experiencing the piston and sleeve are worn out. It’s a matter of how much pinch there is that determines where the engine is in its life

Yep its normal and good. However, spraying carb cleaner into the carb is a very bad idea. Carb cleaner makes rubber swell and ruins it, there are rubber orings in the carburetor....
 
Yep its normal and good. However, spraying carb cleaner into the carb is a very bad idea. Carb cleaner makes rubber swell and ruins it, there are rubber orings in the carburetor....
I brought it to a local hobby shop, he explained the indent at tdc because of the sleeve taper. He felt the rotation of the crank and says it feels good. I didn’t notice I was out of after oil until after I got home, so when I get some oil through it I will assemble it back to the chassis.

glow plug still lights up good.Have fresh fuel. Should work nicely let’s hope!
 
@Fordperf "Should work nicely let’s hope! "

Hey , we all have dreams ......
 

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