K 5.9 Flywheel, Clutch Shoes, Bearing, Clutchbell Problem...

[ecarriel]

Hello,

I got my new engine today and all the parts necessary to complete my truck. After following the "exploded view" manual I noticed that tightening the very last screw (see photo) prevents the clutch bell from spinning freely, after multiple attempts to tighten the flywheel nut down, I can no longer get it to tighten any more and STILL cant screw the bolt in completely without having the clutch bell get stuck. Even if I finger tighten it down, it still puts enough force of the clutch bell to prevent it from spinning. Any help would be greatly appreciated, new to the hobby and I don't have many shops around.

I am using this manual... (see photo)

 

[Jam Racing 1]

Just a question? is there a bit of crankshaft sticking out from the end of the bell when everything is together without the screw in ? sometimes the brass collet that goes on the crankshaft first is a bit longer causing the flywheel to sit out a mm or so and this can cause the bell to hang up, are you using the one that was on it originally or is it a new collet? if new try using the old one or sand down the one you have allowing it to sit a bit farther back...

Also with that steel spacer on the end you can substitute a short piece of fuel tube and lose that weight off the end of the crank......

Like I did here VVVVVVVVV

 

[ecarriel]

Hello,

Yes there is crankshaft sticking out without the screw in if the spacer isnt on the crankshaft. I have three other brass collects, I'm going to have to see which one is smaller and take it apart again. I am using the one that came with the engine, I bought two others because I didnt know it would come with some. To better answer your questions I am using the brass collect that came on the engine.

The little trick with the tube is neat, I will use that technique after all the other parts are situated.

Here is a picture without the screw and spacer.

 

[ecarriel]

Fixed it, I removed the washer that goes here... (see photo)

And it spins, the play it has is very little, almost insignificant, so i'm sure it will be fine. My next question is, will removing that washer damage the bearing? The bearing is now making contact with the flywheel nut, however, this is the only way I am able to get the clutch bell to spin. don't care too much for it as they are cheap but what do you think? here is a little video showing how much spin it has now. Let me know if it is spinning too fast now haha I really don't know what to look for.

Your input is greatly appreciated!

Trying to attach video...

 

[ecarriel]

 

[Jam Racing 1]

Well that looks ok to me, long as it doesnt bind is all good, I would still lose the spacer at the end though and substitute a piece of fuel tube, I had the bronze spacer on mine when I got it (used) and the spacer had obvious signs of wear... the tube trick was told to me by an older member and moderator here, so far in 10 tanks or so no trouble with either the bearings or splitting of the fuel tube.....

 

[ecarriel]

sounds like ill be doing that then, thanks man! cant wait to get a transmitter! are there any threads with tips on breaking in new engines?

 

[olds97_lss]

Without that washer you took out, it sounds like the bell may be hitting the face of the shoes or the pins the shoes ride on. If it were me, I'd get a shim kit and put a thinner than that washer shim in to move the bearing/bell just a hair further out. Could get a pack of these too: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJJ88

And stack a few up instead of that thick spacer. I use those teflon washers all the time for bell shimming to take up a lot of slop, then I use thinner metal shims to get it right where I want it.

This is also a good kit to have around: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNT03&P=7
If you can find it somewhere again. Has larger shims in case you need to push the flywheel out further too (which you don't).