Just pushed the button on a HPI FLUX!

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Mexxan

Member
Messages
45
It just had to happen...

Hi all!

Couldn't not resist any longer - I was 99% there at ordering a 5T to go with the 5B I already have but the more I looked at it - the FLUX just looked amazing.

Bought an E-revo last year hoping to go with a MMM combo but sold it and went 5B - this has rocked but way to restricted on when and where I can run. Just selling my Heli gear and thought a 5T would be good but I'll still get the same probs so started looking at getting an E-revo Brushless Edition when I noticed the FLUX and that's when Savage fever kicked in.

My first foray into nitro was an LST - total nightmare with engine probs from day one - I was gutted back then, some 4 years ago, that I never went for a Savage. Guess I finally fulfill the dream.

This just looks like a ******* menace! Ordered a few minutes ago and already have a Hyperion Duo from the E-Revo / heli days but gotta research which brand LiPo and all other new user info and I can't stand pozi screws and need to look for a hex replacement set for starters. It's good to be back with electric and I've always got my 5B for petrol kicks. Feels great to still be with Hpi too. Hope I can get some help on here - will always be appreciated. first question: do I need a datalink to set the LiPo cut off?
 
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Welcome to the forum & congrats on the flux :bobang:

this is a great forum & we've tried a lot of upgrades.

i got this hex set, it rocks hard https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8851

For Lipos, ive heard nothing but good from peeps that use SMC brand & their customer-service is top notch http://search.horizonhobby.com/index.jsp?N=817&sid=122DB28C781B

Bryan (Snuffleupagus) here on this site is our SMC vendor, check it out & he will answer any questions you might have (he's been very helpful to me personally) https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5351

Again, welcome & post pics & vid when you can :peace:
 
well welcome to the forum my friend, glad to have u here with us!! and as you will find out very quickly all the help you could ever need is here at the forum, so again welcome!!
 
+ 1 with fred and welcome to the forum
 
Welcome. Ditto on the SMC lipos, Bryan is a stand up guy and from what I've seen his customer service is second to none. Post up some pictures and videos when you get your truck running!
 
There IS a procedure for setting the LiPo cutoff, but the one in the manual may be incorrect...lovely, huh? The Castle Link is more than worth the money, IMO.

I've been running a set of SMC 6000mah 28C 2S LiPOs, and they are downright amazing. You'll need to modify the stock battery boxes, though, they pinch the battery leads if you try to use them stock.

Also, if you plan on really beating the #$%@ out of your truck, TCS makes some really beefy chassis plates for dirt cheap:
http://www.tcscrawlers.com/Hop-Up-Parts-p-1-c-297.html
 
Thanks for all the welcomes and advice so far - means a lot to a brushless newb!

I looked into the SMC's - looking good. Is 28C ample for the Flux? I've seen a C-Max version with 40C but less Mah - would that be better or overkill? I'll have to order these from the States as I can find a UK supplier. What C rating can these be charged to?

What about these:
http://www.brockmodels.com/product_info.php?products_id=7813

In the UK and has that same 40C rating - in the UK, but its gonna cost me close to double what the SMC's are. Not too sure which way to go, any ideas? Charging at 3C looks good though.

Thanks for the TCS link Ascender - I can see some dollar going there way!

Just some clarification on the LVC - So the Datalink is essential to prevent LiPo damage? Wow. why doesn't it come with the FLUX as standard.

Thanks, M.
 
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Mexxan,

No matter what LiPo's you choose, make sure you get at least 5000mAh capacity or higher and 24C or higher. If you don't care about having hardcases, our 8000mAh 28C and 9000mAh 28C packs offer tons of runtime and are very powerful. They are softcase packs. The 40C packs are our "Racing" packs and are not necessary for this application even though they work really well. Our new 6028LD's with updated cell chemistry to handle high heat conditions are due in this week or next.

Hyperion is the best line of chargers on the market. Choose your weapon!!!

The 5mm chassis Ascender speaks of are very nice. We have 2 sets, having installed only 1 so far and they seem to be very durable and are a great price.

This forum is full of very friendly people. They will do whatever they can to get you all the information you can handle, so ask away!!!

Thanks,

Bryan @ SMC
 
Thanks for the info, Brian.

I have a good charger - a Hyperion Duo from my ERevo days - works a treat. Damn shame I cant find SMC Max packs in the Uk - You've got a growing market here, it would be great if you could sort out distribution here - located some of your cells with a Uk distributor but no MAX packs. Bringing them over from the US and getting smacked with import tax( I know it's the only legal way) and high postage is a killer. Found some on the 'Bay though but only with TRX connectors :-(

Am I right in researching that SMC's can be charged at 2C?

Gutting when you know the ideal packs are out there - but you just can't get ya hands on them. Lovin the idea of 9000mah - I ran 8000mah on my ERevo and the run times were brilliant.

Found out that the 5mm chassis are at a great price but the postage is 150% of that. Damn - I found it with my Baja 5b and now the Flux - the US is untouchable on RC support, price and products.

Got to get my Flux and packs by Fri - it's gonna be one killer weekend!

I'm still a little dubious on the MMM - got to shake that V2 nightmare. Want to be able to run the truck without constantly worrying about a puff of smoke.
 
SMC MAX's on the way! Just ordered on Ebay BNIB. Only way I could get em! Hope I get the best out of them Brian - Ill do a lot of reading up before I try them out.
Just an agonizing wait now.....
 
Found some on the 'Bay though but only with TRX connectors :-(...

...Found out that the 5mm chassis are at a great price but the postage is 150% of that...

The connector thing is easy enough to fix if you know someone with a good soldering iron...
And even at $50 with shipping for the TCS, you're still paying less than what anyone else is charging, and getting a set of massively over-engineered beast TVPs...probably pretty close to what you'd pay for stockers at your local hobby shop....
 
Very true Ascender- the standard Hpi TVP's in the UK cost the equiv of around $100! gotta find out if they dO postage discounts and then order big. Any recommendations on what else is good therefor the Flux?
 
Very true Ascender- the standard Hpi TVP's in the UK cost the equiv of around $100! gotta find out if they dO postage discounts and then order big. Any recommendations on what else is good therefor the Flux?

I would look into changing them stock diffs out to cens, it will be a matter of time that you will stripped them soon!
 
Freddy,

I'll post in here or in the SMC forum when the new updated 6000's arrive.

Pinkducky,

HPI has new bulletproof diffs on the way. I'd go with those. I just got my revised super HD 18/23t and it rocks!! HPI listened to all the unhappy customers and is making the FLUX near bulletproof, although anything can happen. But, just a tidbit for everyone with a FLUX...Michael McAllister, who won the Battle Royal at the World Finals was using the new diffs and the new 18-23 Drive gear in the tranny. Held up to over an hour of constant abuse, hitting trucks, jumping and being hit by other trucks...One big ole r/c car derby!!!

Mexxan,

2C is correct. They can be charged at 3C but we DO NOT recommend this as it puts severe strain on the battery and shortens it's life. Here in the shop, we charge everything at 2C with ZERO problems. The whole thing about LiPo's puffing or catching fire has nothing to do with charging at 2C...It's the guys that accidentally or intentionally charge them in NiMH mode or guys that try to charge a pack that is defective and they know it is but try to charge it anyway. We have no LiPo sack in here and prob. never will, even though our instructions recommend one just for added safety. If you have any questions feel free to ask away or you can email me direct. 9000's are they way to go. We run those and the 8000's and never think twice about running hardcase packs. We take a few extra steps to secure and protect our packs to prevent any damage. I've only had 1 softcase LiPo damaged and it was due to hitting a telephone pole running 2 3S packs at around 55-60mph. The pack came out of the truck looking like a rainbow!! Good Luck and as I said if you have any questions, please ask!!

Thanks,

Bryan
 
Freddy,

I'll post in here or in the SMC forum when the new updated 6000's arrive.

Pinkducky,

HPI has new bulletproof diffs on the way. I'd go with those. I just got my revised super HD 18/23t and it rocks!! HPI listened to all the unhappy customers and is making the FLUX near bulletproof, although anything can happen. But, just a tidbit for everyone with a FLUX...Michael McAllister, who won the Battle Royal at the World Finals was using the new diffs and the new 18-23 Drive gear in the tranny. Held up to over an hour of constant abuse, hitting trucks, jumping and being hit by other trucks...One big ole r/c car derby!!!

Thanks,

Bryan

Thanks the info Brian! I just hope that the diffs won't cost a mint! Any chance of coming out with a hard case 9000mah lipos? That's the only thing that's been holding me back from buying your batts. I am using soft packs and they get banged up.
 
Pink,

I'm sure they will be priced well. No signs of a hardcase pack yet. We run softcases with no issues. Buy a piece of Parma lexan for like $7.99, get it in anything .40 or bigger and make a makeshift hardcase. The HPI guys took my advice and did it with our 5400mAh 40C 4S 1/8 buggy packs and they say it works out great for them. We don't go that far, but we do cover up the vent holes on the box with lexan so that no debris can enter and become lodged between the pack and the chassis. We also use some radio box foam for added security!!

Thanks,

Bryan
 
Pink,

I'm sure they will be priced well. No signs of a hardcase pack yet. We run softcases with no issues. Buy a piece of Parma lexan for like $7.99, get it in anything .40 or bigger and make a makeshift hardcase. The HPI guys took my advice and did it with our 5400mAh 40C 4S 1/8 buggy packs and they say it works out great for them. We don't go that far, but we do cover up the vent holes on the box with lexan so that no debris can enter and become lodged between the pack and the chassis. We also use some radio box foam for added security!!

Thanks,

Bryan

I hope that your company takes note on this and I am sure I am not the only one asking this question. All my RCs friends say the same thing. Loved your 9000 packs but it's softcased - :-( Sure we can mode it with Lexan and so forth but would like to see a better RTR solution. Thanks for the tip though!
 
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Thanks for the info Pink.

If anyone purchases a Hyperion charger, you will also need to purchase a JST XH adapter board as this is the board required for SMC balance taps.

Thanks,

Bryan
 
I was just about to post that question - thanks Brian. I was wondering what the taps were. Just ordered an extra board for the duel packs - got one already.
How drastic is the Batt box mod to stop the wires being pinched - is that a big chunk of your Batt box lid cut out Ascender?

Just about to order with TCS. TVP (might get two set, even though they sound rock solid) and RPM A-Arms. Is it worth getting the 39T idler? It's a 1/3rd of the price it is here - or is that for 6s Speed runs only?

Also been looking at DX3S Tx - what do you all run on for your Flux? Does stock do the job? Coming from Hpi Baja, I have a KillSwitch on that and have got used to relying on that for safety, is their an electric equivalent ( is it needed)?

Cheers, M.
 
I run a dx3s on my flux and it performs wonderfully. I do not use the telematics on it but the spare rx came in handy! SMC = great batteries
The only issue I have had with the flux is the Pinion gear coming loose.
Tightened the first time and will replace tonight, 30+ runs
No complaints here. Enjoy
 
DX3S, best radio for the $$$ IMO. I use this and love it. I'll be getting the telemetry system soon and see how close it really is to a radar gun.

The battery box is modded differently from user to user. We removed material from the "hoodscoop" on top of the battery box. This allows the wires to pass freely, not as freely as Ascender's, but more freely than stock and keeps much of the stock look. Either way you go it will be an improvement.

Thanks for the props CWheeling!!!

Bryan
 
Well, that took longer than I thought! A few issues with the order now rectified.
Flux is due here tomorrow with the charge leads. I now have 2 SMC 6000 LiPo packs and my Hyperion Duo at the ready. Question is - will I be able to sleep at all tonight? lol.
 
Yay! It's here! But no charge leads. Total poo.
Ordered some more and a Castle Link so should be in business tomorrow or Thurs. I still haven't opened the parcel, waiting for quiet time so I can savour it.
 
I just sat in the room with it after I opened the box and it was very calming.
:pnclsmilie:

Just wait till you crack the throttle and that thing blazes across the yard!!!
You will never be the same! Good Luck sleeping man!!:nicks:
 
Lol CWheeling - I know exactly what you mean.
Managed to put together a lead today as no post - got the SMC's charged and ready. Couldn't find the right sized Philips driver so couldn't get to the slipper bolt / nut properly but managed to tighten it a fair bit, red locktite'd the pinion and cut a bit more space on the batt trays. These screw heads seem to be soft - glad I ordered a screw set that Friddyj linked me to.

I'm all set to go! Just about to power up and I remembered the MMM setup in the manual is wrong so going with the Castle setup / manual but that doc's hanging while I'm downloading it - typical.

Still got the Shocktower bolts to turn and I have to check the diffs (I thought they were shimmed form the factory now?). I only have 30.000 diff fluid at hand - is that WAY to heavy for these diffs? Not to sure whether to run without checking them. Reminds me of my 5B - diff was dry as a bone from factory.

Should have initial power up very shortly - feeling like I'm buzzing but pretty apprehensive just don't want something to fry and die.

Thanks to all for the help so far (let's hope my next post doesn't start with Disaster!......).

Update to follow.
 
I'm looking forward to hearing about your expereinces with it so keep us posted!!.....
 

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