Jumpin causes bad lash!!

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Blazer X

Well-Known Member
Messages
973
Location
Hoosierland
I know I can't be the only one that runs into this but it seems after about 2 tanks of some jumpin my engine starts to slide throwing the lash out of adjustment. It is just the stock ss savage. I tighten all my screws after each run and use loctite.
 
lash = spur/clutch bell mesh I'm assuming?

are you using the red loctite? or blue?
 
that might be the problem...the blue loctite is only meant to keep things from vibrating loose...sudden jarring, as caused by jumping, could easily loosen the screws with blue...try the red, and see how it works...it'll be MUCH harder to remove, but then that's the point, right? 🙂
 
I was thinking of trying that but had bad luck trying to remove bolts for general maintenance. I always seem to strip the hex head off or just break it!
 
you can soften the red loctite up with heat...a lighter will help remove red loctited screws...
 
When using the red , I like to consider if I can replace the original bolt with one that has a head that allows for removal with some stub-nosed pliers. This is a backup method just in case I strip out the hex with a wornout wrench. THere's also the upgrade method which suggests that if you re-tap the hole to a larger size, this makes the allen hex larger also. Now you can use a bigger hex which is less likely to strip. The heat method is is great for removal and easy to forget when your in a hurry with tight spots. Try the tip of your soldering iron where a lighter won't fit -DOOBEEWHA
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I need to do something to mine....my motorplate can move for some reason.....but I haven't stripped a spur gear in a while. Next up is red lock tite for me
 
I like to install a thin layer of adheisive backed sandpaper on the motor mount plate directly underneath the motor mount for this problem. 320 grit has the right bite and does'nt effect the motors adjustabillity by much. Just make sure that you prep the motor plate's surface with a wiping of rubbing alcohol first to make a good tight bond for the sandpaper. There may come a time for replacement if it is constantly doused by fuel overflow,ect.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I will try some red on the engine plate braces and engine mount screws. I thought of the sandpaper but at the time I only had the 80 grit...it was like put pebbles under the mount it rocked back and forth...
 
Slam your ride for less than a buck

If you want to improve handling, one sure way is to lower your chassis for a better CG placement. WARNNING, YOU WILL SACRIFICE THE FULL MOVEMENT OF YOUR SUSSPENSION BY USING THIS MOD.... MAKING BIG JUMPS ATTEMPS OVER THREE FEET HIGH WITH THIS SETUP IS NOT ADVISED. With that being said, you can insert say, a half inch piece of fuel tubing into each shock body assembly to create a new stopping piont for each shocks travel. This forces the shocks to be pre-compressed which really allows for some pretty low susspension setups depending on how long you cut your tube inserts. This is a very cool setup for street and parking lot applictions. Proline Road Rage tires come in real handy about now. I've seen this done and thought that there were some real benifits from this mod. The comfort the truck can take turns faster and harder with more top end stabillity. This is worth trying it out yourself at least once, just to know what it's like. I have to admit that I still have'nt had the chance to do it myself yet, but the principals seem pretty sound. This setup is also suggested by our own forum member, Savagecre. Side note: Since I'm a newbie here, I've had some difficulty sending my posts, replies, and comments to the right locations. I apologize for any confusion this may have started. I'm still trying to wittness how best this site's posting tools work for navigating my enteries. Any suggestions are wecomed form those who can help, thanks.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
If you want to improve handling, one sure way is to lower your chassis for a better CG placement. WARNNING, YOU WILL SACRIFICE THE FULL MOVEMENT OF YOUR SUSSPENSION BY USING THIS MOD.... MAKING BIG JUMPS ATTEMPS OVER THREE FEET HIGH WITH THIS SETUP IS NOT ADVISED. With that being said, you can insert say, a half inch piece of fuel tubing into each shock body assembly to create a new stopping piont for each shocks travel. This forces the shocks to be pre-compressed which really allows for some pretty low susspension setups depending on how long you cut your tube inserts. This is a very cool setup for street and parking lot applictions. Proline Road Rage tires come in real handy about now. I've seen this done and thought that there were some real benifits from this mod. The comfort the truck has taking turns faster and harder with more top end stabillity is worth trying it out yourself at least once just to know what it like. I have to admit that I still have'nt had the chance to do it myself yet, but the principals seem pretty sound.


this mod was actually just posted the other day in it's own thread...not sure why it ended up in a loctite/screws loosening type thread, but here's the one dedicated to the lower ride height mod:

https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2161

let us know if the red works better for you...:motorcycle:
 
If the engine plate is moveing check for any cracks around where the engine mounts, I have had the stock engine plate crack sevral times and this will cas it to munch spurs.
 
Yea, you definately want a finer grit. between 250 to 320 is the zone I prefer. I also suggest using the wet & dry type sandpaper because of it's abillity to handle exposure to various types of solvents like in this case, Nitro Fuel. If you have a few bucks, I would also recommend a role of double-sided carpet tape for a strong adheisive for your sandpaper. I know the tape is'nt cheap but it works great and really comes in handy for alot of other things with your hobbies and tools. -DOOBEEWHA
 

Latest posts

Members online

Back
Top