InTheZone
Active Member
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edit: finally took the time and fixed my issue. Screw the manual, that made things worse.
-I angled the section at the end of the link with the eyelet towards the front. The servo now has to do less work for the same results
-Instead of having the collars spaced 26mm end-to-end at the very end of the link I brought them in to the first bend and kept the same 26mm end-to-end length.
-With the truck upside down I took a flathead screwdriver and pushed down on the tip of the skinny portion of the reverse lever, bending the the skinny tab that grabs the link when engaging forward. With the servo end points set there is no way for the lever to just pop free and float over the link.
-And I also had to bend the section over the driveshaft to make it more narrow. It almost rubs the drive cup, but it allows the link to sit better inside the lever.
Stripping the reverse gear may happen at some point, but at least I know it won't be because of a loose linkage that might've cause the gears to come out while driving.
original post:
I've had an issue where my reverse linkage pops out from the lever way too easily, mainly when going into reverse, whether moving by hand or by remote.
I've gone through the original manual and made corrections to my setup to match what it says to do. Collar to collar length is 26mm, link is oriented in the correct way, I even installed the plastic servo horn instead of using my aluminum horn.
With the plastic horn it will physically not reach to be able to push the link in enough to engage forward. This is probably why I used a longer aluminum horn. I can rotate the servo as much as I need but it's simply too short. Just wondering how anyone got reverse to work with the tiny plastic horn to begin with is a feat in itself.
I would like to think this issue may be the root problem to the link being able to easily fall out if the reverse lever. I also hate how loose the lever sits when in the reverse position.
Also take a look at the manual, page 18. It shows the vertical link (the one that attaches to the reverse module lever) has a bend before the eyelet. Mine does not bend out like that. My reverse lever link is perfectly flat when I lay it down
-I angled the section at the end of the link with the eyelet towards the front. The servo now has to do less work for the same results
-Instead of having the collars spaced 26mm end-to-end at the very end of the link I brought them in to the first bend and kept the same 26mm end-to-end length.
-With the truck upside down I took a flathead screwdriver and pushed down on the tip of the skinny portion of the reverse lever, bending the the skinny tab that grabs the link when engaging forward. With the servo end points set there is no way for the lever to just pop free and float over the link.
-And I also had to bend the section over the driveshaft to make it more narrow. It almost rubs the drive cup, but it allows the link to sit better inside the lever.
Stripping the reverse gear may happen at some point, but at least I know it won't be because of a loose linkage that might've cause the gears to come out while driving.
original post:
I've had an issue where my reverse linkage pops out from the lever way too easily, mainly when going into reverse, whether moving by hand or by remote.
I've gone through the original manual and made corrections to my setup to match what it says to do. Collar to collar length is 26mm, link is oriented in the correct way, I even installed the plastic servo horn instead of using my aluminum horn.
With the plastic horn it will physically not reach to be able to push the link in enough to engage forward. This is probably why I used a longer aluminum horn. I can rotate the servo as much as I need but it's simply too short. Just wondering how anyone got reverse to work with the tiny plastic horn to begin with is a feat in itself.
I would like to think this issue may be the root problem to the link being able to easily fall out if the reverse lever. I also hate how loose the lever sits when in the reverse position.
Also take a look at the manual, page 18. It shows the vertical link (the one that attaches to the reverse module lever) has a bend before the eyelet. Mine does not bend out like that. My reverse lever link is perfectly flat when I lay it down
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