Is this motor modded?

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If you turn the sleeve upside down and look at the top of the ports, is there still chrome or is it down to the brass? (the little spot between the outside and inside) That doesn't look good but if the timing wasn't changed all that's left is the crank. Also, doesthe piston have marks or grooves from top to bottom where the ports are? have a look and let us know.
 
From what i can remember there was still chrome and the piston does not have any scrape marks on it. Wish i had a better camera had to take all these with my phone


Pictures of crank

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Try it with better light, take shots of the induction so I can compare. Looks like your useing a flashlight? it's the induction that will cause issues, the scoops look ok.
 
Yea i tried using a flashlight to see it better but made a glare. Is that induction port supposed to be smooth?

is it supposed to be like that?
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The end (Toward Front) of the induction port looks OEM, but what makes the difference is the opening. Like Pure said better pictures are needed to beable to tell if the timing has been altered.
 
Ill try getting some better ones tomorrow were do you need them taken at? Like straight down the inside of the crank and were i took them before but not as much glare?
 
How to explain? Hold it in your hand so its like a step on a ladder, then turn it so the 2 flat edges are across from each other or you can just barley see the other edge.
 
I think I'm getting what your saying but not sure the opening at the end of the crank that sits rite under the carb? If not have pictures? Thanks a lot for the help guys
 
Yuppers the part that sits under the carb, The part that takes in the Fuel air mixture. Its possible that he changed the duration of the timing for how long its open. If this hole has been opened it changes timing. We just want to see if there is something that is really wrong if its been changed.

However, its impossible to tell if its wrecked(If its been modded) with out having motor and crankcase in hand.
 
Although there has been some work done to the induction, I think it still looks pretty much stock. LRP cranks come much more advanced then most, so it does look "more opened" then say a rtr engine but I have a LRP crank in front of me and it doesn't look much different in terms of timing. I think the guy just did some flow mods to it, it's not the best job but I think the issues are comeing from something other then the mods. jmho.
 
thanks guys ill throw it back together and seal it up again and see how it runs once i get my clutch bearings thanks for the help guys hopefully its runs better
 
I just did the check for air leaks while the fly wheel was off i tested the front bearing and saw nothing and every were else was sealed so i hope my problems are fixed the next time i run it ill also try a new glow plug
 
MAN THIS THINGS RUNS LIKE A RAPED APE! Its finally not bogging any more Thanks for the help guys! Its only took me a few months to figure it out =l. Even though the whole front end of my truck is aluminum (not my choice) it was bringing up the front end with some high gearing
 
This may be a stupid question but when two wheels are stuck not moving at all and and two free wheels are spinning pretty fast is that normal? I bought this truck used about 2 years ago and never had a it far enough apart to look at the diffs
 
Check for missing grub screws that hold the drive cups on. They always have a tendency of coming loose and falling out. I talking about the drive cups that are attached to the trans output shaft and the pinion gear shaft for the diffs. I'd check those first and then report back. Also, glad to hear you got the motor runnin good.
 
savss if you meen like the two right side tire are stuck and the other two spin like mad? yes thats normal with the stock grease in them. its called diffing out. put some 50k diff oil in there and it will make it happen much less
 

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