Installing HPI tuned pipe purple

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SwatKat

SwatKat

Active Member
Messages
96
Hello!

So I tried today to install the HPI tuned pipe and also the exhaust coupling. These are the items:
1. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDLH8
2. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFPZ0 I removed the stock pipe and inside the stock black exhaust coupling I found a small pice of plastic coupler, that I unfortunately broke.

The new pipe and coupler don't have something like this, the manual says that the header and pipe should fit inside the coupling.

The problem is that I'm not sure that they really touch eachother (the header from the motor and the pipe) inside the exhaust coupling.

Should there be a problem, or what? I tied the zip-ties around the coupling.

Thanks.

O, another potential issue... I also replaced the servo/throttle stock linkage to the OFNA style. And I have a question. I have bent the throttle rod to fit, but when WideOppen Throttle, the rod bends a little, as I think the servo horn moves more and pushes the rod more than the carburator can open.. Is this a problem?

(sorry for the poor language, I don't really know how to explain, I will try tomorrow to make a small movie...)

Thanks again
 
The pipe and the header should not touch each other, there is a small gap between the two which is taken care of by the coupler. Zip tying both ends of the coupler should do the trick.

I am not familiar with the Futaba, but you should be able to set the endpoints of the servo through your tx. This should take care of the bending in the linkage. Hope this helps.
 
Allan answered your tuned pipe ?, do you have any pics of your OFNA throttle mod?

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I will post them in a couple of hours. I borrowed my camera and it should be returned today...

Thanks for the answers..
 
SwatKat said:
I borrowed my camera and it should be returned today...
Click to expand...

Well go get it back from yourself and take some pictures. 🙂

(I learned a long time ago never to loan things to myself. I never return them.)

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whipnet said:
Well go get it back from yourself and take some pictures. 🙂

(I learned a long time ago never to loan things to myself. I never return them.)

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Click to expand...

:duh: Yah, I know, but as you may know, I'm not a native English speaker. Well, anyway, you are right about the borrowing issue...

Ok. Returning to the subject, I finally got tha chance today to go out from during work hours and test the car with all the mods from my signature. The testing ground was the parking lot - tarmac. And well, what can I say? It's a completely different car, it handles amazing compared to before. The servos are great and the Tx is even greater... and the HPI pipe is worths completely the money. Now, with no other tuning mod, the car can wheely everytime at WOT. And the A.B.S. function is great.

I now have a question for you guys that run Futaba FASST. What are your settings for better cornering/stability at the Tx menu?

BTW. As I said, tonight I will post some pictures of the OFNA linkage and hopefully a short movie about the issue stated in my previous post.



LE:

Just remembered. When installing the servos, I tried to lift the front plastic protector plate, and found that I can access and see the diff under it. I cleaned the area and put back the plastic cover. It's OK, right?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I use the Futaba FAAST, but I never messed with the steering ratio settings. These things handle like a log anyway. I concern myself mostly with it going straight so I can hit the jumps correctly. I just set the endpoints and started bashing.

Here's a newer pic of my throttle mod.

tm.1.jpg


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Swat...I put the same pipe and coupler on my Savage. Runs and sounds great...just takes a little elbow grease to get the header and the pipe seated in the coupler but they don't touch. Glad it worked out for you.
 
OK. Here are the pics... Just to notice, I haven't yet cut the lateral of the radiobox to make extra clearing space for the rod.

O, and I think that my throttle rod is a little "slumpy" (I don't know how to say it, I mean it isn't quite straight, beside the normal bending.. maybe you can see in the pics)


And here is the link to the movie: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ABR6izOo_s

Thanks
 
Your throttle mod looks great. Where's it bending, or where's the issue?

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Did you see the movie? When full throttle, the rod is bending. I've marked on the picture below the area that is bending.

My guess is that the servo turn moves too much and I may need to set the End Point, but I don't know if that would affect the performance.
 
Now I see.
Your servo is more powerful than mine. I just moved the SF-2 to the throttle, but it certainly looks like the servo is traveling too far. Set your endpoints and you should be fine.

You're hitting WOT before the servo stops now. Just set it at WOT and you should not lose any performance.

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I had the same issue with my truck when i installd new servos and the 4pk. Go into your 3pk manual and look for throttle/steering EPA. Make sure you set both up ( I had my steering bind up on me before i set the epa ) and you will be fine. You wont loose any performance by doing this...you will only save your gear from being destroyed by those powerfull servo's.
 
with the steering posts shaved, you should be able to go to 115% on your steering epa on left and right. the throttle linkage is getting bound up on the radio box too, it may be causing extra stress on your servo which will probably lead to early failure of the servo. maybe bend the throttle linkage, or shave that part of the radio box with a dremel or something along those lines.
 
Thanks, I know about the linkage touching the radio box. When I tested the car on the ground, I removed the spring and stopper, but in the movie they appear.

I was concerned about the EPA and rod bending, I will try to solve this problem bu setting the EPA.

Sorry that I keep on asking here, but, as I am sort-of a newbie, I don't want to break things and then answer...

Thanks for the info..
 
Hello! and sorry to bother you again here, but I don't want to open another topic.

As I want to replace my fuel line, I found out some fuel line from Ansmann that is white and has the following specifications: inner diameter: 2mm (as the standard HPI line), outer diameter: 4mm (5mm for the HPI). Here it is:
http://www.modelsinmotion.co.uk/product.asp?productid=25997&catCode=384&tamiya=0
Is there a problem about this?

And second, I have the option to buy some Dubro fuel line, this: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFRR1 But it seems that the inner diameter is smaller that the standard one?

So, what would you recommend? The one with the same inner diameter or the other? (BTW: the inner diameter really counts or not?)
Thanks
 
I just realized that is the same link you posted. I have that exact line on my Savage and it works fine. I have a hard time keeping the front wheels on the ground but that has nothing to do with the fuel line. Good luck!
 
Fuel line is fuel line. And it has more purposes in RC than you think. Go to your hobby shop and get them to pull you a few yards off their spools. It cost almost nothing, and they usually have it in several colors if that's your thing.

Don't concern yourself too much with the inner and outer diameter, it won't make a difference in performance. But if you extend the lines it seems to help with the half-tank lean for a lot of people including myself.

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OK, thanks for the info. The problem is, as I said before, here in my country you don't find shops laying around, and they don't have most of spare items... so the best thing is to order from us sites...
 
ya that must get a bit inconvienant at times, but i know what you mean as theres no hobby shops near me either so I'm on ebay and other places alot, lol glad to hear you got things worked out!!
 
Thanks. Anyway, just to mention my sorrow, transportation is killing me... 2-3 weeks and sometimes it cost more than the items themself... (they have to cross the ocean...)..

Anyway, thanks a lot guys.. I am new here, but I found a well developed community, very good people, who have the patience to read and answer many, many questions...

Regards..
 
OK. So, yesterday I managed to set the EPA on Throttle, so that the carburetor is wide open at full throttle I ended up at 76%. Now the rod doesn't bind anymore.

I also set the EPA on steering at 90%, to reduce a little the stress when turning.

I didn't have the time to test but I plan on doing it this weekend.

One question, though. I notice an electric sound, a "buzz" whenever I max steer, and the buzz seems to fade away as I set a lower EPA. The same happened with throttle EPA. I guess is the sound of the servos, but by any chance, can this "buzz" mean that the servo is trying to move more than it's allowed?
Thanks
 
And should I lower the EPA until the buzz stops? Because for example, at the steering, the buzz stops at around 50%, even though I can see that the wheels can turn more. As I see now, with the wheels off the ground, the wheels can turn until the dogbones are touching the shock springs, Is it too much?

Sorry to keep posting here, but I can't find ehere I live someone with a Savage and Futaba Tx, to compare... So I may be annoying you..
 
Turn your wheels as far as you can with you hand and set the endpoints there. That's where you want them.

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