I killed my XL

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A

Akiran

Active Member
Messages
55
:duh:As I posted in another thread I was having trouble with the OWB after only 7 litres of fuel.
I decided that due to my in experience I would take it to the experts, yes the OWB is shot, the pin has elongate the hole it sits in and the OWB has been running of center and rubbing on the out housing.
Now for the bad part, I have not maintained the motor after use ie, using after oil. Running it out of fuel, leaving fuel in it.
I have been on the gas for to long, now I believe it should no more 3 to 5 second burst at flat out.
A broken exhaust gasket and the head coming loose my of caused dirt to get in the motor. I am told 1 grain of sand is like dropping a ball bearing in a car motor.
No one to blame here but me and my in experience, part of the reason I joined this forum to learn.

So now the question is what is my best option in replacing the motor ie, type, size, brand, new, exchange.

Yes I can imagine what some of you maybe thinking, but come on I am new to this and my empty wallet is by biggest learning curve so far.
 
for the xl i would sugest something in the .32 size there are many choices axial, sh,lrp, picco just do some shopping and remember you get whet you pay for when it comes to motors
 
sorry about your loss

my favorite rtr mill around 100 bucks is the HPI F .28 (it will out run your old 5.9)

I havnt ran it yet but, lrp makes a .30 now check that out too.
 
Akiran said:
:duh:As I posted in another thread I was having trouble with the OWB after only 7 litres of fuel.
I decided that due to my in experience I would take it to the experts, yes the OWB is shot, the pin has elongate the hole it sits in and the OWB has been running of center and rubbing on the out housing.
Now for the bad part, I have not maintained the motor after use ie, using after oil. Running it out of fuel, leaving fuel in it.
I have been on the gas for to long, now I believe it should no more 3 to 5 second burst at flat out.
A broken exhaust gasket and the head coming loose my of caused dirt to get in the motor. I am told 1 grain of sand is like dropping a ball bearing in a car motor.
No one to blame here but me and my in experience, part of the reason I joined this forum to learn.

So now the question is what is my best option in replacing the motor ie, type, size, brand, new, exchange.

Yes I can imagine what some of you maybe thinking, but come on I am new to this and my empty wallet is by biggest learning curve so far.
Click to expand...

can 1 of the more experienced members comment on this? i don't use after run oil religeously, run wide open quite a bit & barely empty the fuel & haven't had a problem. Maybe these are things i should be doing & i usually mean to, but life gets busy & a day turns into a week or 2 in the blink of an eye
.
Sorry that your mill is junk Akiran, but trust me, no one is thinking anything bad. As far as that goes, your thread & experiences here will help more members than you know so thank you for posting. Now, how much do you want to spend on a new mill?
 
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For what its worth, here is my .02...
I do not use ARO in my motors, but the fuel I use (Sidewinder) says ARO is not needed. Have not had a problem. Leaving fuel in there can cause some rusting and the fuel getting gummy.

In the hopes to save some $$$ you can buy a new OWB, and if the shaft that the one way bearing goes on is worn, you can get one of those also kinda cheap (generally on ebay).

I would do a complete tear down of the motor and give everything a good cleaning, including the air filter. Check the piston, sleeve and crank for scoring. If there is no scoring of those components, you may be in good shape and not need a new motor.

If you need to get a new motor, there are a lit of good mills out there. Good budget mill is an Axial .28 Spec1 for about 110, but the better the mill you look at the prices go up off course. Not sure what your budget is, but you can get very good mills in the 150 - 200 range. Good luck and keep us posted.
 
Yep no shame! You didn't kill a good mill and most are rough on there first mill. That mill is tight and a bear to start I'm not shocked as a nitro newbee the crank pin got pwned. I had to heat and crack the plug on mine to not hurt the one way/crank pin. I still don't advise you to run out and buy a A1 mill. I would also suggest you hunt a K4.6 on line. Can be had under 100 bucks run good and long. My first K4.6 is still alive and well in a friends truck. I was not nice to it and nor is he.

I'm not a F fan they make good power but are a force mill and are prone to soft case's and bad cranks. But for 100 or under do it if you can. New not used!!!

Focus on learning to tune and maintaining your mill and in time go for a high dollar mill. I will shun you for taking a rc to a shop to be tuned. I believe I had read a post where you did this. I also don't suggest you buy a motor from the same shop you had tune it and it blew up. HPI engine exchange program is too pricy to use. All those mills can be had on the cheap. Ebay baby! Ill get you links.. IMO stay away from over .28 mills there is not one made that wont get spanked by a good .28. No replacement for displacement does not apply to rc mills!

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-HPI-Savage-...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50

http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-HPI-Savage-...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50
 
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Thank you for all your comments.

The old motor has lost compression and you can see the head has changed colour, I actually thought that's how they were coloured.

Apparently one of the other issues is I have been running 25% nitro (on the shops were I purchased it from recommendation)
I believe for just fun 20% nitro is a better way to go.

The shop I have gone to NOW has suggested that get a .28 saying it will out do is in it now.
$275AU will get me a new motor .28 (forgotten the brand but will post it up in the morning, morning its 2.45 am now)
Another $35 for the rotor starter box but I was thinking if the OWB is a issue maybe the pull start is r
the way to go.

Budget I didn't have a figure in mind as I didn't exspect to be buying a new motor so soon, after spending $1000AU on the car and $325 on Futaba Controller and receiver it would be nice to get away with this cheaply but not so cheap as to buy rubbish.

BANKRUPTER the links will be appreciated, in fact any links to motor would be great.
 
Contact HPI if you have not had it long. tell them you took it to a shop and had it looked at. Complain about that pin and see what they do for you. But don't buy one from them... I'm sure just from mine that they have more complaints than they know what to do with. It's worth a call. Tell the to give you a F or K 4.6 and you don't want another junk mill. You may get one!
 
BANKRUPTER said:
Contact HPI if you have not had it long. tell them you took it to a shop and had it looked at. Complain about that pin and see what they do for you. But don't buy one from them... I'm sure just from mine that they have more complaints than they know what to do with. It's worth a call. Tell the to give you a F or K 4.6 and you don't want another junk mill. You may get one!
Click to expand...

Done that already by email but a call might do the trick.
The guy at the new shop I am going to said he has complaints about the 5.9 and will be taking it up with HPI at a trade show later in the year.. He loves the truck but not the motor.

HPI are closed until the 5th of January... just tried giving them a call.
 
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K bud well good luck best wishes and Happy new year! Keep us posted. I just looked threw your threads too. Your not the guy I was thinking of as far as the tuning thing went. Every mill I have ran has been better to start then that one. like I said I see what happened to yours as a issue and it was not 100% you. if you go .28 change your spur and bell to 17/47 to start go up from there 18-19 bells Wait till you see the speed change. you will love it!
 
Crash said:
sorry about your loss

my favorite rtr mill around 100 bucks is the HPI F .28 (it will out run your old 5.9)

I havnt ran it yet but, lrp makes a .30 now check that out too.
Click to expand...


here is that F if need be: http://www.sickhobbies.com/Main.html

The NEW Savage X 4.6 F Motor NEW 4.6 $100.00 + SH
INFO: on the New 4.6 Motor. This motor has the same One-Way Bearing and Roto Starter Back Plate the 21 / 25 / X. That is a Nice thing if you have a X motor and want to Up-Grade to the 4.6 F motor.
HPI has raised the bar by adding a massive F4.6 engine
The result is a motor that has the power to do wheelies on command with a scorching top speed of more than 45 MPH.
The F4.6 engine is a new HPI high-power unit with the proven HPI Nitro Star reliability, featuring 2.9hp from its .28 cubic inch displacement! A purple anodized machined aluminum cooling head keeps the engine cool. Rough off-road terrain and extreme stunts are not a problem with this engine! The F4.6 features true ABC construction (Aluminum piston, Chrome-plated Brass sleeve), 8 port tuning, a 7.5mm composite carburetor. The F4.6 engine pumps out nearly 3 horsepower​
 
Jeremy said:
I use ARO everytime

And set piston to bottom dead ctr after I shut it down
Click to expand...

I use it all the time. it sounds like if your not using it the rust will build arund the housing and worst the barrings. Also the rust might get so bad that the mill wont even turn over. For 3.99$ at your LHS just grab one it takes 2min to do.
I tore my hole Axial 32 apart a few weeks ago and no rust Oh by the way I love my Axial 32 I would look into that mill ask Crash we both have our modded and nobody here thinks anything bad about you at all! Cheers!:beer:
 
Can someone please tell the difference between the K4.6 and the 4.6F is one better than the other?

On further note concerning the old motor,
When I purchased the car I asked about the air cleaner oil, I told the shop owner I had motocross bikes (Honda CRF250R & CRF450R) and was the oil similar to the oil used in the nitro cars. I was told it would be better, now I am thinking could the oil been to thick (squeezed all the excess oil out) and starved the motor for air, causing it to run lean and over heat.
Just a thought.
 
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you would probably need to run a 17/47 gearing for a baseline. then adjust for torque or speed from there.

you may want to look into the .30 from lrp too.
 
Dreadnaught said:
you would probably need to run a 17/47 gearing for a baseline. then adjust for torque or speed from there.

you may want to look into the .30 from lrp too.
Click to expand...

Thats what I'm really interested in too. I have a brand new lrp 28 still in a box and debating to sell or keep and put twords a LRP.30 I'm just not sure what the new LRP go for? :beer:cheers!
 
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