Premium members don't see ads. Clickhereto upgrade.

Hpi Wheels Size

EricBoomhout

Member
Messages
15
Can anyone please help me with my wheels and hexes?

I have the HPI E Savage and I try to fit this bigger wheels. what do I need to make this fit?

Thanks for your awnser!

1_IMG_20200124_120714_1.jpg 3_IMG_20200124_120635_1.jpg 0_IMG_20200124_120624.jpg 2_IMG_20200124_120747.jpg 4_IMG_20200124_120655_1.jpg
 

olds97_lss

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,359
Location
Dekalb, IL 60115
Looks like the wheels your trying to put on are 3.2" bead size (standard MT) with 17mm hex. The t-maxx shared hub shaft size with the e-savage, but not the nitro savage or savage-flux. You should be able to find some 17mm hubs that fit the t-maxx that are keyed like that, not the ones with the set screw. Then use the crappy HPI flange nut they use on the nitro/flux savage.

Or hubs like these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Racing...988914&hash=item3d8c9a3f82:g:c-0AAOSwzRlaIHAh

I used to buy the e-savage 17mm hex's for my revo's and use the HPI nut on them. Now, I just take the traxxas 17mm hub, cut the shaft part off, then use the HPI nut. Axial nut is better if there's enough axle sticking out.

I think these are like the OFNA ones I used to use back in the day:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/17mm-wheel...xx-emaxx-revo-erevo-slash-summit/264646788871

They should fit on there too. However, over time, the threads of the shaft egg out the center hole near the end and you end up with a lot of wheel wobble/slop. That's why I stopped using those kind and just cut the traxxas ones off and use the hex/hpi/axial flange nut.

Like these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2-4GHZ...-WHEEL-HEX-NUTS-T-MAXX-TRA-5353X/132997992760

I cut them off flush with the hex the pin goes through. Made for a more solid setup that didn't gain slop over time. Just forced you to rely on the HPI/axial flange nut.
Old HP Z680 vs new vs axial 31087:


The old HPI flange nuts were fine, but the newer ones suck and break easily if you land hard at all on the edge of the wheel. The axial ones were built well, but they didn't have threads for the first couple mm. Worked ok on my savage flux though.

Here's one of the traxxas hubs I cut off, I used to run these on my v1 brushless revo which uses the same hubs/axles as the nitro revo and I believe the t-maxx:
 

EricBoomhout

Member
Messages
15
Looks like the wheels your trying to put on are 3.2" bead size (standard MT) with 17mm hex. The t-maxx shared hub shaft size with the e-savage, but not the nitro savage or savage-flux. You should be able to find some 17mm hubs that fit the t-maxx that are keyed like that, not the ones with the set screw. Then use the crappy HPI flange nut they use on the nitro/flux savage.

Or hubs like these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hot-Racing...988914&hash=item3d8c9a3f82:g:c-0AAOSwzRlaIHAh

I used to buy the e-savage 17mm hex's for my revo's and use the HPI nut on them. Now, I just take the traxxas 17mm hub, cut the shaft part off, then use the HPI nut. Axial nut is better if there's enough axle sticking out.

I think these are like the OFNA ones I used to use back in the day:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/17mm-wheel...xx-emaxx-revo-erevo-slash-summit/264646788871

They should fit on there too. However, over time, the threads of the shaft egg out the center hole near the end and you end up with a lot of wheel wobble/slop. That's why I stopped using those kind and just cut the traxxas ones off and use the hex/hpi/axial flange nut.

Like these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-2-4GHZ...-WHEEL-HEX-NUTS-T-MAXX-TRA-5353X/132997992760

I cut them off flush with the hex the pin goes through. Made for a more solid setup that didn't gain slop over time. Just forced you to rely on the HPI/axial flange nut.
Old HP Z680 vs new vs axial 31087:


The old HPI flange nuts were fine, but the newer ones suck and break easily if you land hard at all on the edge of the wheel. The axial ones were built well, but they didn't have threads for the first couple mm. Worked ok on my savage flux though.

Here's one of the traxxas hubs I cut off, I used to run these on my v1 brushless revo which uses the same hubs/axles as the nitro revo and I believe the t-maxx:
Thanks for your awnser man! I'm not really technical guy and I don't have much tools and not able to buy them (I'm 21). So I try ro find the cheapest and easiest way possible. Do you think these will work? https://www.trxxs-winkel.nl/traxxas-trx6469-wielnaaf-splinesvertanding-17mm-6061-alumi-p-2352.html

Thanks again for your awnser.
 

olds97_lss

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,359
Location
Dekalb, IL 60115
These would be more likely to work:
https://www.trxxs-winkel.nl/traxxas...moeren-splinesvertanding-17mm-blau-p-624.html

You can usualy find them on ebay pretty cheap as a take off part from a v1 brushless revo and 3.3 revos.

The ones you linked are for teh X-01 which push the hub further out/widen the track. However, the x-01 has smaller threaded part so that it can use a smooth nut for the extended part of the hub to rest on it.
 

EricBoomhout

Member
Messages
15
These would be more likely to work:
https://www.trxxs-winkel.nl/traxxas...moeren-splinesvertanding-17mm-blau-p-624.html

You can usualy find them on ebay pretty cheap as a take off part from a v1 brushless revo and 3.3 revos.

The ones you linked are for teh X-01 which push the hub further out/widen the track. However, the x-01 has smaller threaded part so that it can use a smooth nut for the extended part of the hub to rest on it.
Thank you so much for your help!
I ordered them. I will keep you up to date.
Has been more then a month that I recieved the wheels and I coudnt use them.. Thanks again!
 

EricBoomhout

Member
Messages
15
These would be more likely to work:
https://www.trxxs-winkel.nl/traxxas...moeren-splinesvertanding-17mm-blau-p-624.html

You can usualy find them on ebay pretty cheap as a take off part from a v1 brushless revo and 3.3 revos.

The ones you linked are for teh X-01 which push the hub further out/widen the track. However, the x-01 has smaller threaded part so that it can use a smooth nut for the extended part of the hub to rest on it.
Today I recieved the 5353x and they fit with some adjustments, first of all I had to cut some plastic to make the 5353x fit and also I cant use 1 of the 2 barings (not sure if that is a problem).
 

Attachments

EricBoomhout

Member
Messages
15
Can't use 1 of the 2 bearings? The wheel hubs should have an inside and outside bearing, 8x16 I think. You need both of those.
The one bearing closes to the wheels doesnt fit anymore. Any idea if that one is needed? I cant make it smaller becouse its all aluminium.
 

olds97_lss

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,359
Location
Dekalb, IL 60115
Then the hubs aren't a direct fit and shouldn't be used. The pin hole must be in the wrong location/depth. I wasn't 100% sure they would work, just thought the diameter would fit.
 

EricBoomhout

Member
Messages
15
Then the hubs aren't a direct fit and shouldn't be used. The pin hole must be in the wrong location/depth. I wasn't 100% sure they would work, just thought the diameter would fit.
They do fit without that 1 bearing but I don't know if thats a problem becouse it looks fine to me. Not sure if it will bring problems tho. I also had to cut a little bit of plastic from the hub to fit it but that was almost nothing. And yes the pin hole is wrong. Any idea what to do next? I think its fine but I cant run my car to test it becouse 1 of my 2 batteries died so I need to wait on a new one.
 

EricBoomhout

Member
Messages
15
Then the hubs aren't a direct fit and shouldn't be used. The pin hole must be in the wrong location/depth. I wasn't 100% sure they would work, just thought the diameter would fit.
Its btw not the problem of the hubs, its because of the driveshafts that have a metal rhing that wont allow the bearing to move enouge to the back. Thats the reason it will not fit with the hex extenders and the bearing. I will send you some photos tomorrow. Little bit hard to explane like this.
 

olds97_lss

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,359
Location
Dekalb, IL 60115
It's not fine. You need both of those bearings in place. Without it, it's just going to tear your hubs up and the rear bearing will unseat. Apparently the pin location is a hair different for traxxas hubs vs hpi hubs... heaven forbid anything be consistent in RC land.

I ran into that many years ago with aftermarket hubs on a truck. They were .5mm different than stock and while the pin would fit, it smashed the bearings, and the bearings died within the first tank of fuel.

All I know you can do is try to modify what you have, or find e-savage specific hubs... which may be difficult to do as the e-savage was phased out when the flux came about and the flux used nitro savage sized axles/hubs which are larger diameter.

If it were me... I would dremel slots in the back of the hubs, like the stock hubs have, for the pin. But you would want to make them perpendicular to the hole already in the hub for the traxxas pin. You would also want to not make them too deep. The slots need to be only as deep as the stock hubs. Then I would cut the hub off like I did with my traxxas hubs and use the flange nut to hold the wheel on.

Hard to explain in text... but that is likely your only recourse short of finding e-savage specific hubs.

These are e-savage specific 17mm hex's:
https://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/86925

It's what I ran on my revo's when you could still find them. They didn't sit as deep as the traxxas hubs and I had to put shims on behind the pin to take up the slop. I forgot about that until right now... was over 10 years ago.

Looks like there are some on amazon... for $30.
https://www.amazon.com/17mm-Hex-Hub-Set-ESAV/dp/B000QXZU0G

Bit of a rip off as they used to be less than $10. I didn't think they existed anymore as I couldn't find any 5+ years ago which is why I modified the traxxas ones when I did for my other revos.
 

EricBoomhout

Member
Messages
15
It's not fine. You need both of those bearings in place. Without it, it's just going to tear your hubs up and the rear bearing will unseat. Apparently the pin location is a hair different for traxxas hubs vs hpi hubs... heaven forbid anything be consistent in RC land.

I ran into that many years ago with aftermarket hubs on a truck. They were .5mm different than stock and while the pin would fit, it smashed the bearings, and the bearings died within the first tank of fuel.

All I know you can do is try to modify what you have, or find e-savage specific hubs... which may be difficult to do as the e-savage was phased out when the flux came about and the flux used nitro savage sized axles/hubs which are larger diameter.

If it were me... I would dremel slots in the back of the hubs, like the stock hubs have, for the pin. But you would want to make them perpendicular to the hole already in the hub for the traxxas pin. You would also want to not make them too deep. The slots need to be only as deep as the stock hubs. Then I would cut the hub off like I did with my traxxas hubs and use the flange nut to hold the wheel on.

Hard to explain in text... but that is likely your only recourse short of finding e-savage specific hubs.

These are e-savage specific 17mm hex's:
https://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/86925

It's what I ran on my revo's when you could still find them. They didn't sit as deep as the traxxas hubs and I had to put shims on behind the pin to take up the slop. I forgot about that until right now... was over 10 years ago.

Looks like there are some on amazon... for $30.
https://www.amazon.com/17mm-Hex-Hub-Set-ESAV/dp/B000QXZU0G

Bit of a rip off as they used to be less than $10. I didn't think they existed anymore as I couldn't find any 5+ years ago which is why I modified the traxxas ones when I did for my other revos.
Very good news! I think I fixed it! I found some other kind of bearings that fit. I will take it for a run tommorow and see how it rolls.
 

EricBoomhout

Member
Messages
15
Those are for the non-e-savage hubs. The first e-savage runs smaller axles and those hex's wobble all over the place.
Today I had finaly some time to run the car.
It was perfect! without any problem. After ride I checked the wheels adn hexes ect.. And it was all fine so thanks again. Just had to add those smaller second bearings :)
 

EricBoomhout

Member
Messages
15
Think you could take a wheel off and post a photo of what you have? Kind of curious... lol
It took a lot of work to make it fit but it finally works. Today I did an other run, checked the car and everything still looks fine.
 

Attachments

olds97_lss

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,359
Location
Dekalb, IL 60115
I doubt that's going to last you very long. There really needs to be a ball bearing on both sides of the hub carrier. Looking at it, it appears you have the outer side of the axle just supported with a thick washer as a bushing. That's going to grind away at the axle shaft and either the washer is going to grind down, or the axle will, then the axle will be prone to breaking and you will have to find a new axle for a truck that you can't even find hex's for.

I'd really do what I said with those hubs instead. Cut them off flush, grind a channel in the back of them for the hub pin, put both bearings back in the axle carriers, then use the HPI/axial flange nuts to hold the wheels/hexes on.
 

EricBoomhout

Member
Messages
15
I doubt that's going to last you very long. There really needs to be a ball bearing on both sides of the hub carrier. Looking at it, it appears you have the outer side of the axle just supported with a thick washer as a bushing. That's going to grind away at the axle shaft and either the washer is going to grind down, or the axle will, then the axle will be prone to breaking and you will have to find a new axle for a truck that you can't even find hex's for.

I'd really do what I said with those hubs instead. Cut them off flush, grind a channel in the back of them for the hub pin, put both bearings back in the axle carriers, then use the HPI/axial flange nuts to hold the wheels/hexes on.
I don't have the tools to cut aluminium :/.
 

EricBoomhout

Member
Messages
15
I doubt that's going to last you very long. There really needs to be a ball bearing on both sides of the hub carrier. Looking at it, it appears you have the outer side of the axle just supported with a thick washer as a bushing. That's going to grind away at the axle shaft and either the washer is going to grind down, or the axle will, then the axle will be prone to breaking and you will have to find a new axle for a truck that you can't even find hex's for.

I'd really do what I said with those hubs instead. Cut them off flush, grind a channel in the back of them for the hub pin, put both bearings back in the axle carriers, then use the HPI/axial flange nuts to hold the wheels/hexes on.
Is there an other way fix it? I don't have the tools and also not the money to buy them (I'm 21 remember still live with my parents so I aint going to buy metal cut tools)
 

olds97_lss

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,359
Location
Dekalb, IL 60115
Without doing it right, your just going to ruin it. Then your stuck with nothing working. I'd go back to the stock wheels/tires/hubs if you still have them until you can sort out the 17mm hex issue.

I don't have an elaborate shop or anything. My home office doubles as my RC room. A bench vice to hold the hub while cutting, metal hand/hack saw to cut and a dremel to grind slots for the pins. Or a pair of vice grips to hold the hub, dremel to cut off the end and make the slots.

Unless you can find the hpi hubs I mentioned earlier.

Never bought from here, also in Canada... but they show them in stock:
https://webstore.eliminator-rc.com/hpi-17mm-hex-hub-set-e-savage
 
Top