HPI suspension conversion

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ScooterB

Well-Known Member
Messages
177
Location
Layton, Utah
I recently purchased the HPI suspension conversion and am wondering what those who have used it really think of it. I am curious about its durability on a bashing play machine in particular the upper arm mounts.
Also would like some updated feedback on recomendations for shocks. I am planning on switching to a large bore single shock setup and there seems to be still a little debate over LST or HPI bigbore shocks.
 
Welcome to the site ScooterB. Got the Conversion & bigbores on my table & plan to put it all in over the weekend. Bankrupter's the guy you wanna talk R.S.C. with ...
 
Allot of us use it Scooter. Big bores all the way. I ran it with LST2's as well but big bores are far more tunable and I have found them to hold up just as well with none of the weight. it holds up well to bashing and is a must for racing. It takes the savage from a brick on wheels to a very runnable truck! I have run it for over a year now.

This vid is with it and big bores. Don't try it with single stock front set up. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2exPX__2Wpw the 2nd vid on the same channel is the first and only time I have hurt a big bore but it bent a shaft and broke a a-arm shearing off the top screw holding on the shock. You will shatter a shock body b4 you shear of a screw with most shocks..
 
if i haven't said it already welcome to the forum, and as far as shocks go put another vote down for the big bores!! as was said there just as strong as the LST'S and a heck of alot lighter!!
 
Thanks for the warm welcome everyone.

I guess HPI big bores win the shock question. But I am still wondering about the durabililty of the susp conversion. Seems to me changing from a 5 mm pin to a small screw with spacers on the upper mounts might cause some durability issues. As well as using spacers on the rear outer lower link.

Just wondering if anyone has had any issues with bending or breaking parts more often with this setup.
 
I have now pulled a screw out of one arm. other than that they have been fine. as far as bending I hit a school at WOT cleaned off the right side of the truck the RSC came out fine. You do need to keep a eye on the upper arm mount. That screw likes to loosen up.
 
Guess I'll just run it, have fun, and see how it does.

Wish the snow would melt so I could get in some good runs.

Thanks to all
 
Loctie the 2 hub screws. thats all I can tell ya. you let them fall out and you will have issues.
 
I have now pulled a screw out of one arm. other than that they have been fine. as far as bending I hit a school at WOT cleaned off the right side of the truck the RSC came out fine. You do need to keep a eye on the upper arm mount. That screw likes to loosen up.

A "school," lol, what the heck you mean, a school of fish? :rockout
 
Has anyone run the Hpi Big Bore Shocks on a xl yet.
A mate put some on his savage x today, so much more stable in cornering.
 
A "school," lol, what the heck you mean, a school of fish? :rockout

No the middle school next to my house has a stair case off the football field and its about 3 feet wide between the building and a big rock on the other side. I was 3 inches off the mark WACK! That's what I get for tring to launch off it showing off..:duh:
 
Update

I picked up a set of Big Bores over the weekend and filled with 20 wt then took it out for a run. Wow what a difference! Even my seven year old noticed how much sharper it turned and cornered. He didnt know what I had done to it but got a chance to drive mine while I was tuning his.
I highly recommend the suspension conversion to anyone considering it.
While the big bores work great I was dissapointed when I opened them up and found they had plastic bodies. Even the replacement part sheet lists a hard anodized body. $90 for plastic shocks? And the spring spacer binds on two of them.
I was able to directly compare to a before and after being that my sons inherited my "upgrade allum shocks" and still has the stock suspension set up.
I noticed that instead of rolling over when I made a hard braking turn instead it went into a slide and came out ready to floor it instead of having to turn it back over. With the 20wt oil the suspension reacted very well to the surface and the truck did not bounce or bottom out.
Performance improvement rates a 10. Value for plastic shocks rates a 2.
 
I picked up a set of Big Bores over the weekend and filled with 20 wt then took it out for a run. Wow what a difference! Even my seven year old noticed how much sharper it turned and cornered. He didnt know what I had done to it but got a chance to drive mine while I was tuning his.
I highly recommend the suspension conversion to anyone considering it.
While the big bores work great I was dissapointed when I opened them up and found they had plastic bodies. Even the replacement part sheet lists a hard anodized body. $90 for plastic shocks? And the spring spacer binds on two of them.
I was able to directly compare to a before and after being that my sons inherited my "upgrade allum shocks" and still has the stock suspension set up.
I noticed that instead of rolling over when I made a hard braking turn instead it went into a slide and came out ready to floor it instead of having to turn it back over. With the 20wt oil the suspension reacted very well to the surface and the truck did not bounce or bottom out.
Performance improvement rates a 10. Value for plastic shocks rates a 2.
Told you you would like it.. but your big bores are plastic?? Mine are hard ano aluminum. IDK what ya got there... But they are not the big bores if they are plastic.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Your right I just did a scratch test on them and they are alluminum.
I take back what I said about the plastic.:duh:

They do have distinct lines running the length of the body which looks like a plastic molding line. Must have something to do with the anodizing. I've never seen anything like it before.
 
One other thought. I noticed that the wheel bearings fit a little loosely in the new conversion carriers and wondered if anyone else had this problem? Is there a way to shim them so there is not so much side play?
Would it be a good idea to shim and locktite them in place?

Just seems to me if there is play eventually they will wear and I will end up with too much play. I don't want to have to replace them unnecessarily.
 
I picked up a set of Big Bores over the weekend and filled with 20 wt then took it out for a run. Wow what a difference! Even my seven year old noticed how much sharper it turned and cornered. He didnt know what I had done to it but got a chance to drive mine while I was tuning his.
I highly recommend the suspension conversion to anyone considering it.
While the big bores work great I was dissapointed when I opened them up and found they had plastic bodies. Even the replacement part sheet lists a hard anodized body. $90 for plastic shocks? And the spring spacer binds on two of them.
I was able to directly compare to a before and after being that my sons inherited my "upgrade allum shocks" and still has the stock suspension set up.
I noticed that instead of rolling over when I made a hard braking turn instead it went into a slide and came out ready to floor it instead of having to turn it back over. With the 20wt oil the suspension reacted very well to the surface and the truck did not bounce or bottom out.
Performance improvement rates a 10. Value for plastic shocks rates a 2.


rockout rockout rockout rockout​
 

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