HPI Savage brake lever

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blown68ssrs

Active Member
Messages
110
looking for info on a 2 speed trans brake lever portion exploded view.
Mine seems odd
 
I made my actuator rod myself out of an old turnbuckle I had, it is longer so I get a bit more leverage out of the system.....





as you can see it is still quite far forward to get the needed stopping power to the system
 
Cool. I guess I am OK. I was comparing it to my Savage 25. The brake lever on the 25 points at 11 o'clock.
 
It's not necessarily about the position of the lever, though it does help......cus it's a lever. The servo is going to be the real star of the show. The more powerful the servo, the more stopping power you will have. Also it helps to not have a servo saver on the servo (not sure if you do, just putting it out there). My brakes will make my truck do front flips if I'm not careful. I've had to dial them way back. haha
 
Mine sits like this with minimum travel to engage the brake.
View attachment 962
Try adjusting the brake adjuster(seen in pic) ,20180222_081236.jpg also a short piece of fuel line ( one inch or so ) on rod between brake servo arm and adjuster .
Also I added a spring from a clicker ball point pen from rod end to fuel tank clip, keeps brake from dragging.
 
You might want to check and make sure your brake disc/caliper screws are fully seated. If it's tilting that far forward before applying brakes, it appears you either have a lot of wear on your disks/calipers or the screws are backing out on you. If not, mine was about that bad on an old 21 savage I had. I just took the wire out and bent it so it stood more perpendicular. As long as the set screw is tight, it will stand up and work fine that way.
 
So my level popped out due to the caliber screws getting loose but popping the lever back into the trans isn’t as easy as it seems as something inside the hole seems to be in the way(actuating rod perhaps?). Anyone know if there’s a specific order of steps I need to follow to reinstall this lever?
 
Yes. There's a brass plug in there that pushes against the back of the "brake pad". Usually if the screws come out far enough for that plug to come out far enough for the shaft to fall out... the plug is usually gone. Or perhaps the very thin lip on the shaft has broken off as that's all that keeps the shaft in the trans housing. The plug keys into the shaft.

The plug/puck/whatever sits in the cut out:
s-l640.jpg



Here's another where you can see the brass plug/puck and the shaft with the notch in it that the plug sits in:
12_30ed01dd-e7d1-400c-846c-4d22269cfedf_large.jpeg
 
Yes. There's a brass plug in there that pushes against the back of the "brake pad". Usually if the screws come out far enough for that plug to come out far enough for the shaft to fall out... the plug is usually gone. Or perhaps the very thin lip

Woohoo looks like I won’t need to make another trip to the HS since there’s definitely something in there(could be brass) and it’s blocking me from being able to push the lever all the way in. So I guess it’s just a matter of dissembling the Calipers and brakes pads in order to remove the brass puck thingy. Then insert lever, reinsert puck into levers cutout, reinstall the brake pads and calipers and hope for the best?
 
put a drop of ca glue or what I use, a bit of plumbers goop in each hole and install screws in the holes, it will keep them from backing out...
 
I’m kind of later here but I recently rebuilt a savage .21 or ss. Not sure which it is but the brake lever keeps coming out and I have no brakes. This is my first savage so I am not familiar with this brake system. My guess is the brass puck is supposed to sit in the shaft cut out and the disc plates might not be tight enough which is causing it to back out?
 
Make sure the 'brass puck' is the right size, check the two screws holding the 'pads' are not backing out, as they can do which usually makes your brakes weaker. Never has the brake shaft coming out.
 

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