How to split diffs

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awya14

Well-Known Member
Messages
156
my buddy did it last time..do I pry with a flat driver ..or is there some trick to it ..
and does anybody use 50,000 weight. my other sav has it ..seems to work great ..gotta rebuild # 2 and wanna make sure its not gonna gimme any probs down the road
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the diff holder, after the 4 (?) screws are removed opens up by prying backwards i believe, then the bits that go onto the diff output shafts split into 2. undo the 4 screws holding the pinion gear onto the diff.

if ya wanna completely clean and re-build it, read on!

pull the little gear from the inside of the pinion gear, noting the pin behind it.

remove the 4 spider gears, i use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull em out.

now in the bottom of the diff case is a small grub screw, remove this, DON'T LOOSE IT!!

pull the gear at the bottom of the case out.

now the pin that holds the gear comes out through the hole you just opened (rotate the output shaft till it lines up!)

give it a good clean and then you can put that lovely clean diff oil in there!

to be honest, i run a really light oil in the front, and an automotive cv grease in the rear (handles really well)

hope that helps yo' out bud. ds
 
what I noticed from the stock to 50,000 is when i corner hard and the 1 wheel lifts ..the stock spins and truck kinda dies off till it drops ..the 50 thow
keeps goin, I ride out on 2 wheels till I steer into it to drop er back down,
I was also wondering if you lose any power/speed with all the resistance?
 
diff oil is all about preference and driving style.

what feels right to one person may feel totally wrong to another. if youve found a good set up then thats great.

some people spend ages chasing the perfect ride.
 
so , I completed my 1st diff re-build!
wasnt too hard at all..look at this mess!
bearing ,pinion,and crown all beat!
so tight with the 50,000!
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Just blew out another diff!!!!!! bearings seem ok ..but the pinnion and ring gear are smoked ..again ..I'm not sure why I burn em out so often..I was thinkin about gettin the alum diff houseing ..comes complete for around $100..4 gear upgrade ..and seems like it might be tight and flex free
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those are good housings.
but i have a few pointers if you go that way, as i have used them.

the external cases have no problems,
but set aside the purple diff cup, shims and internal gears, everything else is spot on, ring (crown) and pinion are hardened, drive cups are hardened.

rebuild the diff using the hpi diff upgrade set (alloy cup with steel inserts) that you used for the last, and use the bling ring/pinion drive cups and bearings. That should last you a long time.

One FINAL point ensure the diff is well shimmed in the external casings, the hpi diff set will come with shims to go behind the bearings to give you a good mesh. with the shims installed and the case tightened up you should have no sideways movement on the diff and you should feel only the smallest amount of play between ring/pinion.
 
I haven't shimmed my diffs yet ..that may be the prob..I use the upgraded HPI stuff..and the thin washer that is between the ring gear was tweaked..maybe I over tighten ?? I don't know..I'm gonna shimm em next time for sure
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The stock hpi diffs are crap.....


there is a cupple people on the fourm that can do the cen diff mod for yea, and you wont have the problem... Me or talk to jt...
 

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