How to remove sleeve and piston

[XxxNate's SavagexxX]

how do you remove a piston rod(connecting rod) from a crankshaft with piston head in engine? I'm cleaning a F 4.6 my friend sold me for 20$

 

[Dreadnaught]

i think you have to pull the sleeve out. that will probably give you enough room to manuver the piston off the crank.

 

[XxxNate's SavagexxX]

i think you have to pull the sleeve out. that will probably give you enough room to manuver the piston off the crank.

how do i pull the sleeve out? its kinda stuck in there! (engine is quite beaten but had awesome compression)

 

[Dreadnaught]

ive seen the ratchet end of a zip strip stuck into the sleeve and out the exhaust. then turn the engine over and it should pop out.

 

[XxxNate's SavagexxX]

ok ill try

 

[Jeremy]

You can also use the shoutbox for these quick ?'s

People are allways on and willing to help you

 

[nickmind]

Nate, the ONLY way to get the piston and conrod out is by taking the sleeve out. The Only way!

If the sleeve is stuck in the crankcase and its to hard to push out with your finger. Try this:

1. Using the end of a tooth brush or something similar like a pen. Try pushing the sleeve out through the backplate hole. Pushing upward as hard as you can.

2. If 1 does not work, preheat your oven to 350, (then stick your head in J/K) then stick your engine in there (without the carb! just the crankcase itself) for about 5 to 10 minutes. Then use some gloves :duh: , get the engine out of the oven, then quickly try pushing the sleeve out the same way as 1.

3. This works only sometimes, only when the engine is new or has been taken very good care of. Put your head button with the glow plug screw in, back over the sleeve. With the head button & glow plug covering the hole of the sleeve, and with the piston at BDC, fill the exhaust port with your finger then use the crankshaft to push the piston upward. That will create enough pressure to move the sleeve out of the crankcase with the head button still covering the sleeve. (Sometimes the head button will pop off. Just try it again) Remember this only work sometimes.


BTW, if you can try making your thread titles more meaningful. e.g. "How to remove?" does not tell much, "how to remove sleeve?" now someone else can use search to find this thread with the answers already here. food for thought

 

[Shanty]

You can also throw the engine in the freezer. The sleeve will shrink just enough to help get the sleeve out. You will though still have to use the zip tie method to help get it out. Some of you may be saying, wont the crank case shrink also. This is true but the sleeve does shrink a little more then the crank case just because what it's made of.

 

[nickmind]

You can also throw the engine in the freezer. The sleeve will shrink just enough to help get the sleeve out. You will though still have to use the zip tie method to help get it out. Some of you may be saying, wont the crank case shrink also. This is true but the sleeve does shrink a little more then the crank case just because what it's made of.

I will have to give this a try someday, just to try if I run into this problem. But two thoughts, one I would rather have my engine parts expand vs shrink, since they natively expand during use. The shrinking of parts and expanding of them will wear the sleeve out faster. Two, it will take longer to freeze shink the sleeve, then to expand it.

My $.02

 

[Shanty]

I will have to give this a try someday, just to try if I run into this problem. But two thoughts, one I would rather have my engine parts expand vs shrink, since they natively expand during use. The shrinking of parts and expanding of them will wear the sleeve out faster. Two, it will take longer to freeze shink the sleeve, then to expand it.

My $.02

That might be true. I have done it about five times and haven't had a problem yet though. But you have to remember, it's not like we are getting it to extreme minus temps. It would be no different then letting your truck out in the garage in a Canadian cold winter night.

 

[Bankrupter]

My two cents is to Never heat a mill in a oven. It does not expand the mill at a equal rate which can shorten life and warp it as well. The proper way to heat a mill is suspended in a oil bath. Although people have done this for years.
Also shrinking the mill with cold will have less detrimental effect than to over heat it past its heat range. As long as it warms back to room temp on its own and not with a heat source.

 

[nickmind]

My two cents is to Never heat a mill in a oven. It does not expand the mill at a equal rate which can shorten life and warp it as well. The proper way to heat a mill is suspended in a oil bath. Although people have done this for years.
Also shrinking the mill with cold will have less detrimental effect than to over heat it past its heat range. As long as it warms back to room temp on its own and not with a heat source.

Could you point me to some information on this oil bath? I did some searching, can't find much. But yet again bank, i completely disagree with you. 🙂 Heating the engine in the oven is less damage to the mill then the actual use. Your mill can get from room temp to 250 in less then a minute with just running the mill. When you heat the mill in the oven it takes a bit longer to heat. But please remember, we are just heating the engine for 5 to 10 minutes to get the crankcase and sleeve loosened. Doing just that has no chance of warping. Over 10 mins. and I can see how damage can begin to happen. We are trying to get the mill to its design heat range. Not over, just because the oven is heated to 350, that does not mean the engine could get that hot in 5 mins, it could maybe get that hot in 10 minutes. But you only have to go as long as it takes to get the sleeve to pop out.

I have done this methed about 3 or 4 times, not once did I heat the engine for more then 5 mins. Once the sleeve is out, of course you are letting the mill cool down in room temp.

With all that said, this is nothing that was made up by me, this suggestion comes from written books and mags i have read in the past.

 

[XxxNate's SavagexxX]

well i got the sleeve out with the oven trick and some of that spray stuff(after of cousse)

 

[Bankrupter]

Could you point me to some information on this oil bath? I did some searching, can't find much. But yet again bank, i completely disagree with you. 🙂 Heating the engine in the oven is less damage to the mill then the actual use. Your mill can get from room temp to 250 in less then a minute with just running the mill. When you heat the mill in the oven it takes a bit longer to heat. But please remember, we are just heating the engine for 5 to 10 minutes to get the crankcase and sleeve loosened. Doing just that has no chance of warping. Over 10 Min's. and I can see how damage can begin to happen. We are trying to get the mill to its design heat range. Not over, just because the oven is heated to 350, that does not mean the engine could get that hot in 5 Min's, it could maybe get that hot in 10 minutes. But you only have to go as long as it takes to get the sleeve to pop out.

I have done this method about 3 or 4 times, not once did I heat the engine for more then 5 Min's. Once the sleeve is out, of course you are letting the mill cool down in room temp.

With all that said, this is nothing that was made up by me, this suggestion comes from written books and mags i have read in the past.

You wont find using a oil bath in RC stuff. Look up pressing bearings it will tell you to freeze the bearing and to heat the housing in oil never dry heat. Motor cycle Manuel's also have this info written in them for tight tolerance work. I learned this from a Friend that is a machinist and fitter but Ive never looked it up. I have read it in Claimer repair Manuel's as well. Its just in my head no quotes here I don't do research to make a post bud .. this is not a battle of wits.. just my 2 cents. I just wont toss a mill in a toster. I know many that have!!!, but Id never recomend it. I have the hot plate and the oil just for doing this type of work. Not bought for RC mind you. I got it all(Free) building a race motor for my banshee. I've used it for my old GSXR too. But I've never had to heat a Glow mill to date also. Id just freeze it first. I don't care to work on hot parts if not needed( I'm the guy that always gets burnt no matter how careful I am) lol :duh: Other than other forums where have you seen putting a mill in a oven? I don't think a news stand rag would print this info. If you can point me too it. I'll never bring up oil baths again!! This is just based off my bike exp like I said and not RC. :resp:

 

[Dreadnaught]

i can see putting it in oil, cus then it lubes everything. making it easier to get the sleeve out and such. i don't like just heating stuff up that is a press fit. so I'm going to give my .02 to bank.

 

[Bankrupter]

Naw the oil is not about lube but it does add to it. Its about even heat. You also suspend it in the oil don't let it touch sides or bottom and heat it from cold to the temp you want it. You don't drop it in the hot oil. It just a more even and controlled method. Theres no right or wrong here. Just if you have a hot plate this is a much more controlled way to do it with out the chance of warping.

 

[Larsenracing]

Bank is exactly correct about this. Like he said it will give it a much more even temp as the heat gets to all surfaces inside and out unlike heat it will hit the outside surfaces then work inward threw the walls where the oil will surround the part fully hitting all available surfaces at the same temp.

The oil needs to be to temp first before dropping the part in. This can be done with water as well however water is not as efficient and cools much quicker than oil does. Moisture is also not our friend from an engine standpoint.