How To Paint A Fibre Glass Body Shell!

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snoop69

Member
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46
This is guide on how to spray your fibre shell.

Materials used :-

1x Fibre shell
1x Sheet of wet & dry sanding paper
1x De-greasant
1x Clean cloth
1 x Grey primer rattle can.

This is all done on a budget in a normal sized shed so fancy stuff like spraybooths
& heaters are not being used here.

1. I have drilled the bodypost holes before any paint preperation begins.Get it right first time as you will have to repair any mistakes before painting begins!

bodyholes1.jpg


bodyholes2.jpg


2. Using 600 grade wet & dry lightly rub down the shell removing all of the shine as we are trying to ensure the paint will 'key' to the shell.If you don't do this the paint will simply peel off the shell & you will wasted your time/money.

sanding2.jpg


sandin**one.jpg


3. When you are happy that the shell is sanded sufficiently take some de-greaser (i used some old B&Q Turps) & clean the shell of any dust/grease etc.Make sure you don't handle the shell with bare hands or the shell may become contaminated with the oils in your skin & the paint may react.

turps.jpg


turps1.jpg


4. When the shell is dry,give it a thorough clean with a dry clean cloth & mount it on something that you can turn around without having to touch it.

ready.jpg


5. Using the primer in a rattle can is quite easy just use smooth strokes & don't put it on too heavy. Take Your Time!
The 1st coat is what we call a 'dust coat' & is just a very light coat.Allow this to dry a couple of mins before applying the 2nd heavier coat.

dustcoat.jpg


6. Apply the 2nd coat ensuring adequate coverage & once again allow to dry.

2coats.jpg


7. Lastly,the top coat - before applying the 3rd & 4th coats check the shell for any foreign objects like dust/hair etc & remove.

Apply the top coat nice & heavy ensuring full coverage.

finished.jpg


Shut the shed doors & leave it for at least 24hrs for the primer to set.

Right - the top coat!

First,give the primered shell a light rub down & after you have ensured
it is dust free apply a 'dust coat'.

tcdust-1.jpg


Leave this to dry for a couple of mins before applying the 1st heavier coat.
Hold the can approx 8'' away from the shell applying the paint with smooth even coats.Make sure you overlap the the paint so you don't leave a'dry edge'!

1stcoat-1.jpg


Aim to apply between 3 to 5 coats of paint.
Make sure you leave the paint at least 10 mins before applying another coat.
Just heavy enough to get good coverage but not too much or it will run!

2ndcoat-1.jpg


You should end with something like this.

topcoat2-1.jpg


topcoat-1.jpg


When the paint as been allowed to drt for at least 24hrs check for any foreign
objects like dust etc.

Using wet & dry you can sometimes remove any dust or runs & then use something like T-Cut to bring the paint back to nice shine.

When you are happy with the end result you can start to add the decals.

Heres a few ive done already but i still need to add windows & other decals before
i can call it finished.

mounted1.jpg


mounted2.jpg


mounted3.jpg


mounted4.jpg


This example is far from perfect but considering the working conditions at hand it is more than acceptable for bashing!
 
yeah nice info snoop just a little question on a different subject are they standard shock/springs if so how you get it to sit so low i like the stance it looks menacing lol
 
are they standard shock/springs if so how you get it to sit so low i like the stance it looks menacing lol

They are black springs (paints fell off most of them) with 35wt oil
all round & no pre-load adjusters.

Think i had Fullforce towers on at the time the pic was taken but
if not then they would have been Flm buggy towers on the lowest
setting.

Hope that helps.
 
Yes or internal limiters.

You could also try straps if you don't want to tear down your shocks

Straps for racing & remove if you want to bash hard

getto8.jpg
 
Hi, i know this is an old thread... but is there anyway of getting the pics back or are they Loooong Gooonneee
 

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