How To Heat Cycle Your Engine For Newbies & Pros

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soulja

Virginia Beach Beast
Messages
1,748
i was on the forum today and heard a fellow member saw he didn't what was or how to heat cycle and engine. well until a year or two ago i didn't know how either and i've been doing this for 8+ years. well...after internet searching a year ago i found this thread. It is buy Ron Paris...and racing legend that has now past. well...after i sat down and read this i saw a lot of good info and some tips ....and i consider myself to be a halfway decent vet of nitro. since i have this... i have done ALL my engines like this..and experience nothing but power and long life out of his method. i thought i would share it all with you!! here is his complete write up....and it is awesome...so try to read it all.
 
most top engine builders actually use that method i think or atleast something simular!!
 
Ok let me just makes sure I got this right.

Read instructions first.

1-Idle with wheels off the ground for 2-3 min
2-Cool @ btc
3-Idle with wheels off the ground for 2-3 min
4-Cool @ btc
5-Idle with wheels off the ground for 2-3 min
6-Cool @ btc
7-Idle with wheels off the ground for 2-3 min
8-Cool @ btc

Set on the ground and run around for 3-4 tanks without making any needle adjustments. Says to blip throttle to avoid speeding too much time in one rpm range.
---->Blip means a quick throttle or slowly run it up and release?
Allow to cool between tanks.

@ about 6-8 tanks start leaning out @ 1hr increments but don't let her scream yet. Run a few more tanks like this then let her rip.

Then start working on the lsn. If idles fast and slows down in a few seconds then it's rich. Should idle high for about 20 sec
-->after the 20 sec should it die?

Move to the idle. Set at a moderate rpm without allowing the wheels to turn.



I didn't want to cut and paste the manuel instead write what I got out of it.
Please let me know if I'm understanding it correctly and let me know if I'm off on anything or if you do things differantly.
Thanks
Tobias
 
Ok let me just makes sure I got this right.

Read instructions first.

1-Idle with wheels off the ground for 2-3 min
2-Cool @ btc
3-Idle with wheels off the ground for 2-3 min
4-Cool @ btc
5-Idle with wheels off the ground for 2-3 min
6-Cool @ btc
7-Idle with wheels off the ground for 2-3 min
8-Cool @ btc

Set on the ground and run around for 3-4 tanks without making any needle adjustments. Says to blip throttle to avoid speeding too much time in one rpm range.
---->Blip means a quick throttle or slowly run it up and release?
Allow to cool between tanks.

@ about 6-8 tanks start leaning out @ 1hr increments but don't let her scream yet. Run a few more tanks like this then let her rip.

Then start working on the lsn. If idles fast and slows down in a few seconds then it's rich. Should idle high for about 20 sec
-->after the 20 sec should it die?

Move to the idle. Set at a moderate rpm without allowing the wheels to turn.



I didn't want to cut and paste the manuel instead write what I got out of it.
Please let me know if I'm understanding it correctly and let me know if I'm off on anything or if you do things differantly.
Thanks
Tobias

Yeah that helped me a lot, thank you +rep !

Can i ask one question?
What website did you get the article from ?

Or were ever you got it !
 
Thanks but you'll have to thank soulja, I was just making sure that I was understanding it correctly. I got the link from the 1st post at the top of the page.
Clicky -->Paris Tuning Tech Tips
When you read it let me know if you are understanding it the same way I am. There is alot of good info in there.
Thanks bud
Tobias
 
That's a very nice article, there are loads of good tips in there. I encountered a few of the issues discussed myself, including the first #2 on page 2. Actually I read that doc before (I stumbled on it elsewhere) but it was too much info for me to remember it all.

IMO you gotta have at least a bit of experience trying to tune your own engine for it to stick into your brain.

Nice find soulja!
 
During the first couple of tanks on the stand what temps should I be hitting? I prewarmed to about 150ish, then idled and only hit about 120ish. I did lean the lsn about 1/8th to get it stay running.

Seems way to low, do I need to lean some to run alittle warmer? Which needle?

And when I do run on the ground, do I finish the tank or do 2-3 min intervals as well?

Any other pointers would be great :)

btw its a LRP .28- Ofna 086- 20% Rocket science fuel.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
During the first couple of tanks on the stand what temps should I be hitting? I prewarmed to about 150ish, then idled and only hit about 120ish. I did lean the lsn about 1/8th to get it stay running.

Seems way to low, do I need to lean some to run alittle warmer? Which needle?

And when I do run on the ground, do I finish the tank or do 2-3 min intervals as well?

Any other pointers would be great :)

btw its a LRP .28- Ofna 086- 20% Rocket science fuel.

Thanks

any insight fellas?
 
During the first couple of tanks on the stand what temps should I be hitting? I prewarmed to about 150ish, then idled and only hit about 120ish. I did lean the lsn about 1/8th to get it stay running.

Seems way to low, do I need to lean some to run alittle warmer? Which needle?

And when I do run on the ground, do I finish the tank or do 2-3 min intervals as well?

Any other pointers would be great :)

btw its a LRP .28- Ofna 086- 20% Rocket science fuel.

Thanks

I had the same problems when i broke in my Lrp.28..I lean the high speed needle till i got it up to the minnum of 190 but not over 220 on the stand...I ran out the complete tank and then let it cool down and then run the next tank..I am sure that you no this but make sure that the piston is at BDC when you are letting the mill cool down.. Hope this helps!!!:peace:
 
give me about an hour and i'll see if i can reload it.....
 
I had the same problems when i broke in my Lrp.28..I lean the high speed needle till i got it up to the minnum of 190 but not over 220 on the stand...I ran out the complete tank and then let it cool down and then run the next tank..I am sure that you no this but make sure that the piston is at BDC when you are letting the mill cool down.. Hope this helps!!!:peace:

now did you run the tank on teh stand or driving?
 
Looks like all the links to the Ron Paris doc are gone.

Here's a lengthy tuning guide with heat cycle instructions from an engine modifier from back in the day, Ron Paris:
Ron Paris Tuning and break-in Guide

I downloaded a version of this many years ago and it was formatted really badly. I spent an hour making it a bit more legible. The "Break In" section starts on page 9.
 
Ok let me just makes sure I got this right.



Read instructions first.

1-Idle with wheels off the ground for 2-3 min
2-Cool @ btc
3-Idle with wheels off the ground for 2-3 min
4-Cool @ btc
5-Idle with wheels off the ground for 2-3 min
6-Cool @ btc
7-Idle with wheels off the ground for 2-3 min
8-Cool @ btc

Set on the ground and run around for 3-4 tanks without making any needle adjustments. Says to blip throttle to avoid speeding too much time in one rpm range.
---->Blip means a quick throttle or slowly run it up and release?
Allow to cool between tanks.

@ about 6-8 tanks start leaning out @ 1hr increments but don't let her scream yet. Run a few more tanks like this then let her rip.

Then start working on the lsn. If idles fast and slows down in a few seconds then it's rich. Should idle high for about 20 sec
-->after the 20 sec should it die?

Move to the idle. Set at a moderate rpm without allowing the wheels to turn.



I didn't want to cut and paste the manuel instead write what I got out of it.
Please let me know if I'm understanding it correctly and let me know if I'm off on anything or if you do things differantly.
Thanks
Tobias

After the 20 seconds of high idle, you just turn your idle back down. It shouldn't die and if it does it's because you have the low-speed needle is set too lean.

To adjust the carb correctly you should run the engine for 5-7 minutes to make sure the engine is at full temperature, and adjust the high speed needle first. the high speed needle is your main fuel adjustment. It allows more or less fuel to enter the carburetor and thereby entering the engine if you adjust your lsn first and then your hsn you will have to go back and readjust the low-speed because it will be too lean at that setting.
Adjust hsn no more that 1/4 turn in at a time. Run at that setting for at least 2 minutes, you should see an increase in acceleration and top speed after a few 1/4 turns. Don't worry if it does not shift out of first gear at this point. Continue to adjust the high speed needle turning clockwise 1/4 turn at a time until either you have nearly no smoke trail or performance starts to fall off.
At this point you turn the hsn 1/8 turn out until you get top speed and good strong acceleration and a near smoke trail. Now adjust your lsn in 1/8 turn at a time. Also adjust the idle speed accordingly. It should idle without the wheels turning with the truck off the ground.

Setting the idle any higher would only cause overheating of your Clutch Bell bearing and premature wear of your clutch shoes.
If the engine is brand new or a new sleeve and piston, the first thing you will want to do before you start it is heat the engine up with a hair dryer until it's hot to the touch probably around 140 to 160 degrees, easily obtainable with any hair dryer. This will help reduce the initial wear and increase the longevity of your engine. It will also make it easier to start if you have a pull starter. It allowing the sleeve to expand slightly
 

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