How many of you use a scotchbrite pad to scuff your body's??

Do you scuff the inside of your body's up before painting?

  • Yes I do, Explain below.

    Votes: 6 26.1%
  • No never have

    Votes: 13 56.5%
  • I may the next time. (explain how you will below)

    Votes: 4 17.4%

  • Total voters
    23
  • Poll closed .
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Larsenracing

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
Messages
3,849
Location
Worthington, MN
I am working on cutting a new body out and have heard of people using a scotch brite pad or something similar to scuff up the inside of the body's before painting.

I have painted several body's and have only had one have the paint chip/flake off but have seen many body's that have this issue.

Do you do this and does it help?

Share your experiences!
 
Yes I do some times....It has to be a FINE 3m scotchbrite and the haze that it creates will not show through the paint.
Now as to the paint chiping/pealing is most likely the inside of the body not being cleaned enough (oils from finger prints or soap residue that as not rinsed off enough with hot/warm water, then let to fully dry)
 
I had a couple paint jobs go bad from pealing and chipping paint. So the last 2 I have done have been scuffed up before painting and so far so good with them.
 
600 grit wet sandpaper in a sink full of soapy water. Sand until the entire inner surface is "hazy"....
 
600 grit wet sandpaper in a sink full of soapy water. Sand until the entire inner surface is "hazy"....

Just don't do the windows if you want them clear obviously. And the one and only body ive done i used a scotch brite pad seems to work fine.

Edit: Make sure you wash the body after scuffing
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks for the info guys. This is great information.

The last think I always do and should be done is wash the body out with hot soapy water and rinsed with clean water very well just before paint.

The steps I usually take.
1: Unpackage
2: Trim bottom
3: Mark body with permanent marker for holes
4: Drill or use Body ream
5: Mark for other cuts like around engine, windshield, etc.
6: Cut
Added: Scuff all but windows
7: Clean
8: Dry body out
9: Tape
10: Paint Scheme
11: Let dry
11: paint fuel proof backer
 
Larson trim it after you paint it. It gives you something to hold onto at any angle. I also ream out my body holes after it is dry as well. I found the paint only chips off it your coats are to heavy. But scuffing should work fine and allow you to spray it too heavy with no issues. I also don't fuel proof it... My two cents bud.
 
I agree Bank, the paint will chip easier if you coat to heavy. I cut and trim before hand as it makes it easier to see where you need to cut. You can then draw your lines on the out side of the body. I find this the easiest. I usually throw some masking tape over them from the outside and just hold the lid in one hand upside down and paint this allows you to tip the lid in any direction as well.

I'm just not sure if I will scuff this body because I am going for a kamelian color (Red, blue, purple, gold) I hope it turns out. I just hope my paint stuff comes soon. I'm sure it will be end of next week because I ordered the stuff a day or so ago and of course it needs to go UPS Ground.
 
I agree Bank, the paint will chip easier if you coat to heavy. I cut and trim before hand as it makes it easier to see where you need to cut. You can then draw your lines on the out side of the body. I find this the easiest. I usually throw some masking tape over them from the outside and just hold the lid in one hand upside down and paint this allows you to tip the lid in any direction as well.

I'm just not sure if I will scuff this body because I am going for a kamelian color (Red, blue, purple, gold) I hope it turns out. I just hope my paint stuff comes soon. I'm sure it will be end of next week because I ordered the stuff a day or so ago and of course it needs to go UPS Ground.

I never have scuffed a body either, and usually trim them to fit before painting also. What paint did you get for the color change?
 
I usually trim and make all the body post holes etc before I mask or paint. I have recently switched back to using lacquer based paint. I have scuffed the body before and done them unscuffed, The main thing to remember is keep it clean and don't go too heavy with the paint.
Remember if it has a flaw inside it will show, been there done that.
 
I have never scuffed and I find the outside wears faster than the paint :p

I mark the body holes and whatever before painting but trim and ream after paint.
 
I scuffed my last body with a light sandpaper and it came out ok...It had been so long since I last did a body that I forgot to do it on my recent one, but I think it came out ok...I painted my red first in several coats with pleny of dry time and two shop lights for heat to aid in cure time, then I did my silver backing, then my black for the trim and backed up the silver with black. It came out ok...I had some minor bleed through from the masking tape lifting around the trim edges, but the stickers covered up most of the imperfections.
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when i pasint y bodies i use a 3M part number 07447 and they come out awesome and have a little better ahesion
 
I'm really pleased i read this guys. I just took my new SC10 shell out for a run today and the paint is chipping off around the edges of it really bad!

Wondered what the problem was and i reckon i might have just solved it!

Lesson learnt. My paint applied to thick and i didn't scuff up the inside of the shell.

Everyday is a school day!
 
I scuffed up my last shell with 0000 wool the chrome paint now flakes off super easy! Never had this issue pre-scuff with chrome b4, always been durable... Black is holding strong though.
 
tru...it will look like brushed aluminum. i found tha tout the hard way..........
 

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