Having break in issues

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kevinor

Member
Messages
34
Location
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
I've had a brand new Savage X 4.6 RTR for a week now. I've been trying hard to get good break in conditions using the old-school idling method. It is my first car, so I figured I'll start with the old method.

My problem is I can't really get it to idle very well. I started getting 1 tank through probably at about 25% as the HPI video suggests. I didn't have a temp gauge at the time, but I highly highly doubt it got over 120 degrees.

A couple days later, I got it to idle on it's own (with the throttle trim up all the way) through one tank, and it didn't get any hotter than 110 (I had a gauge at this point). I put in a second in to hopefully get the temp up higher, and it died at roughly half a tank, temperature didn't change.

Bought new plugs because I wasn't super confident in the one I had anymore. Put a new plug in, and this time to I couldn't get it to start. So I called my LHS, they said Savage's with the needles at factory are too rich and to give the HSN about a half turn to start, and if I was still having trouble do the same with the LSN. So I did about a half turn on the HSN, and a quarter on the LSN. So now it started, but I still needed to have the trim all the way up, and then the slightest amount of pressure on the trigger to keep it going. So I stood there holding the trigger for a bit. If I let off the trigger, sometimes it'd run on it's own for a minute (usually only a few seconds), but then would die. So I would repeat, but this time my temps were WAY up. Like 275.

So it died again at just less than half a tank, and by this time my glow starter was dead (since I'd restarted it about 25 times). So I'm now re-charging and hoping for more luck tomorrow. I really need some help getting this thing to idle in the 200ish range.

For all those who ask, running 20% fuel, needles were all flush until adjustment, now I've put them back. Should I start driving it around slowly yet? Doesn't it need to idle on its own first?
 
with the hpi method idle one tank and drive in a 20 foot circle for 2 tanks at half throttle and as the needle settings i wouldnt have messed with them till those 3 tanks were run. instead of messin with the throttle trim you could also screw in the idle screw to keep it running till you have tuned it or break in is done
 
with the hpi method idle one tank and drive in a 20 foot circle for 2 tanks at half throttle and as the needle settings i wouldnt have messed with them till those 3 tanks were run. instead of messin with the throttle trim you could also screw in the idle screw to keep it running till you have tuned it or break in is done

So you're thinking the idle will improve after I've softly driven it around?
Basically you're suggesting the method that's outlined on the DVD that it came with, the paper manual differs. A little confusing for a newbie like myself.
 
it will run really ruff anyways on break in cuz its so rich. and to get the temps to about 200 thats what the driving part is for because it makes the mill (motor) work but never give it full throttle during break in
 

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