Frustrating Issues

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K

KOWAL

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15
This problem has got me frustrated!!!! :deadhorse:

I recently bought a used savage x which i have talked about in a previous thread. it has an axial .32, and a whole pile of problems. It keeps chewing up spur gears, so i changed to a metal spur and now it chewed up the CB. What i can see is the motor sags a bit on cb end, and there is a wobble to the spur gear.Its not tuned yet because i cant figure this part out, so its not even putting the power to the spur and it chewed the plastic one. I have the motor shimmed evenly between the mount and frame.

I need advice on the most efficient way to remedy this issue problem?

KOWAL
 
remove the motor and see if your motor plate is cracked, bent or broken.


also, the c.b. wobble should be ok. all of mine have done this.
 
I have a flux not a nitro but I'd check the motor plate very closely for cracks, the flexing could be causing the problem. To reduce the spur wobble I turned the slipper hub around on the pin in the shaft, and that helped get rid of almost all the wobble in the spur.
 
there is a gap between the plate and the side where it should sit. the fasteners behind the motor are stripped, probably from the guy trying to straighten the plate or force it down rather. Could that be the culprit?

savagegay.jpg
 
savagegay.jpg


the plate is messed up the hard wherej ust behind the motor is stripped. could this be the culprit. ( the other side is flush)
 
So what then....? Because of the angle its creating is causing the bell to chew the spur or spur to chew the bell? how do you set your spur and bell mesh, i flick the spurr to make sure it spins a bit the run a piece of paper through to see if it rips? also when it was sitting and idling every so often i would see it twitch and here a ting then it would stall......is that the bell catching an edge of the spur?

thanks for info, its been really helpful and stress relieving
 
Yeah, if the spur and cb are not square with each other that would cause you to chew out teeth, and sounds like maybe the clutch is grabbing, maybe a clutch spring is broken or missing.
 
put an xl style engine plate in there its thicker also check the 2 support braces that are under the plate. as for the clutch bell you need a hpi vented clutch bell for the steel spur
 
KOWAL said:
This problem has got me frustrated!!!! .

I have the motor shimmed evenly between the mount and frame.<-------------

I need advice on the most efficient way to remedy this issue problem?

KOWAL
Click to expand...

What do you mean here ?????? IF the mesh is ok I'm with Mick on this Id blame the motor plate. Seeing it has a .32 on it Id say it has a good chance its bent..... Like Mike Also said Racing bells only on the hpi hd spur ...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I replaced the plate........ Looks alot better now I don't need the shims anymore, I'm gonna give a test run today.

For bankrupted , u just meant I had shims under the engine mount.

I have a metal
Spur and cb , I also have a plastic racing cb.
 
KOWAL said:
I replaced the plate........ Looks alot better now I don't need the shims anymore, I'm gonna give a test run today.

For bankrupted , u just meant I had shims under the engine mount.

I have a metal
Spur and cb , I also have a plastic racing cb.
Click to expand...

If it was shimmed you found your issue...

with the HPI HD spur the only clutch bell it wont shred is a vented racing bell. Even the HPI HD metal bell will rip up. That spur will last the rest of the trucks life no matter what you do to it ...
 
Alright.......I went for a test run today. It still shredded the cb, cleaned the teeth right off. I noticed that at a stand still i would here a jamming noise every few seconds that would cause to it stall most of the time. grrrrrrrrrr ting grrrrrrrrr ting. when i spaced the two apart they were basically free spinning and did not tear the piece of paper. i'm not sure where to go next with this. its hard to tune something that cant sit still for second, or something that eats CB like all you can eat wings. I'm not sure if its important but the spur gear does have a wobble to it. i now have a plastic racing cb can i use this with the metal spur.

Thx for the help guys.
 
The new clutch bell i have is a metal racing vented one. will it always strip the non vented stock bell, or do i have something else wrong. I don't want to put on the new clutch bell just to have it strip cause i have something screwed up. Should there be any play in the clutch bell itself.

Hopefully you guys can shed some light on this.
 
There should be some end play in the bell. Yes, that spur will always shred the non-racing (vented) bells. No, a lil wobble wont make it happen. All my spurs wobble...
 
It took me about 4-5 CB to figure out what the mesh should feel like too. I tried the paper method but that didn't seem to help me as I stripped the CB that time as well. I eventually set my mesh to slightly tighter than spinning freely, and tightened my screws down real good with some threadlock and I have not had an issue since. And now that I've run it a few times, what used to feel tight is now a really smooth feeling mesh. I guess it just took a run to break the gears in together....It may not be the right method but it has worked for me and I haven't lost a CB or Spur since...
 
KOWAL said:
Alright.......I went for a test run today. It still shredded the cb, cleaned the teeth right off. I noticed that at a stand still i would here a jamming noise every few seconds that would cause to it stall most of the time. grrrrrrrrrr ting grrrrrrrrr ting. when i spaced the two apart they were basically free spinning and did not tear the piece of paper. i'm not sure where to go next with this. its hard to tune something that cant sit still for second, or something that eats CB like all you can eat wings. I'm not sure if its important but the spur gear does have a wobble to it. i now have a plastic racing cb can i use this with the metal spur.

Thx for the help guys.
Click to expand...

What do you guys think of this as well? ( note this was not with the vented racing bell, but I'm more referring to the pulsing/binding at idle.
 
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