Engine won't idle

[Tyson Adams]

Look guys I'm seriously at my whits end with this car, its brand new, immaculate condition, I've done everything so carefully, I've run it in, I've done 3 clutch bells and 2 owb's AND the brand new throttle servo in the process, I've come to the tuning process and now i'm ready to throw it on the power line. I've worked on this thing day in day out all night for a week. Serious! I've read every single piece the net has on the savage, I've watched every video. It was running on break in, now it starts, it stops, it revs its head out, it wants to take off, it won't idle, it stalls as soon as you touch the break! I've tuned this thing every which way possible. I've done this I've done that, glow plugs fuel, back to factory settings.Linkages you name it, it' will idle and wind down very slowly to stall. it will stay going and then just stall. I cant even put it on the ground because it wants to take off. I've gone through about 30 litres of nitro just trying to get it going. like I said I've watched and read every video and forum. WTF!!!!!. It's starting to beat me. I need some help PLEASE

 

[timatworksg]

Tyson, sometimes a short break and away from the truck can help re-focus. Persist and you will learn alot from all the trouble shooting. Yes, a nitro engine can be frustrating when one minute it starts, then another day it doesn't. But, take a breather...stop reading anything to do with RC for a day or couple of hours...and then come back with a clear mind.

From your description, we can't really tell what your doing exactly as we aren't there to see it first hand. So there is only so much we can give and the rest is your trial and error. Since it started and was running during break in...set the needles back to default and try again. See if that works this time.
If you touch brake on the TX and it stalls (stops running) then your carb gap closes when the servo arm moves to activate the brake rod, thus putting pressure on the carb causing it to close that gap. This is where the idle stop screw comes in and needs adjustment to prevent the gap from closing by 'stopping' the carb when you brake. The servo then takes it's pressure out on the spring along the control rods instead. If you back out your idle stop screw (richen CCW), your throttle servo arm which is at neutral has some play when you brake as the idle stop screw isn't pushing the carb sleeve anymore.

Just some questions off the bat...
- are you tuning with a full tank? If so, are these symptoms happening at full tank or at half tank? If half tank you may have the Half Tank Lean issue. I had that too.
- What fuel, percent nitro and glowplug number you using?
- Check your fuel lines and ensure everything is flowing smoothly with no kinks or pinch.

Grab some pics of your set up and post them here so others can take a look to see if anything is amiss.

Sometimes the simplest of things can miss us. Understanding how each needle's Lean and Richness effects the engine can be daunting. But once it clicks...you look back and realize how easy it really was. I'm still learning myself and each day is a lesson in itself. I did wish to revert to electric power...but knowing that the engine can start, works, runs...just means somewhere in between is where the answer is. Keep at it!

 

[X]

Your description is a bit erratic. So it is hard to follow exactly what is going on. Have you checked for leaks in your engine/ fuel lines/ tank? It is always a good idea to seal your engine. Any little leak can cause your truck to be hard to tune. A good instructional is linked below for sealing your engine:

http://www.savage-central.com/modules.php?file=viewtopic&name=forums&t=54465

 

[Tyson Adams]

Yeh sorry guys I was just so frustrated with it at the time I didn't know what to do! I've had a day away from it so hopefully today i'll get her fired up and running properly! Will keep you's posted. Thanks for the advice 🙂

 

[fz1dave]

Yep, sounds like an rc. Like timatwork said -take breath and step back a bit. You will get it.

 

[timatworksg]

Take it slow this time tyson. Check all your fuel lines, exhaust connections, fuel tanks for cracks of potential leaks. Seal your engine if you can. Make sure hoses run smoothly and without any kinks or tight curves. Then refer to your manual and set the needles all back to factory default. Set your idle gap to 1mm.
Now start from there again. I do things step by step and sometimes take weeks just to tune before I can confidently start bashing...then again thats just me..lol.

Just work on getting it started first. Then move on to the HSN adjustments. Then the LSN adjustments. Do the increments 1/8 a turn...really 1/8th a turn! Rememeber, it's safer to be running rich then lean. So as long as your having smoke all over the place...you just loose performance and not overheating your engine.

Get this bit done first and report back on progress. Also any issues of bogging, revving up, etc and during which phase. Then we can try to help with the next stage. Work on getting the truck started and at least moving, with a good drop back to idle when releasing the throttle.

Cheers!

 

[rikkidy]

While reading your frustration it reminded me of myself having as much trouble.
I sealed my engine (like Goast said) and the thing will run with almost any jet setting
Now I am into the fine tuning and having as much trouble as you are. The rig was
flipping over backward at 20 miles per and now it will not even do a wheelie. I think I am moving
the needles to much at a time ( as explained by Jam). Keep going you'll get it. PS tune on the
pavement.

 

[timatworksg]

I recall when I started...even after sometime in it...one thing always happens and that is to 'Over-Tune'...if thats the word for it. We get a tune that works...then we fiddle more and more in the aim of perfection...when in reality..I was as blind as any. Result...loss or performance. Then start tuning like 1/4 turns or more thinking I knew better.
After a break...I reset everything to factory defaults and forced myself to remember the basics of tuning...what is done first, what to look for and move the needles 1/8 by 1/8! Once at a performance I am happy with...stuck with it for till half tank or less and check temps and performance. I realized how easy it actually was.
Lastly...don't compare with another or try to attain what another has done. Too many variables and each truck acts differently. Yes...Tune on the Pavement or flat surface. Grass will slow even the fastest.
When your happy with the performance...good blue smoke, good pick up, wheelie's will come later. I never bothered with the wheelie's as I did a mid tank mount and my battery is in front...it will wheelie when I hit that sweet spot of the throttle...but as it is...I'm happy with it running around. Perhaps down the road...but for now...what the heck!