Engine tuning, for the beginner!

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AoD

Well-Known Member
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Location
Hammondsville, Ohio
Alright, this is a controversial subject that has ridden many arguments in hobby shops, racetracks, emails, and forums alike. So, let's keep it civilized here please. :)

Now, this guide will help you find those settings you need to keep your truck running strong for the haul. Everyone has their own ways of setting the fuel flow up, so I'm going to be broad in this topic. I'm gonna give two detailed paths to chose though, as some say lean, some say rich. So, we'll go with lean and rich, and you can decide where you want to go with it.

What all you will need :

Long and Thin tipped flat head screwdriver
Right angle SMALL flat head screwdriver
Optional : Temperature gun

First, we'll look into the major components of the motor, and how the process works in general. First off, if you're not sure how the motor really works, then you NEED to read this link.

http://science.howstuffworks.com/two-stroke.htm

Now, since these motors run on a mixture of fuel and oil, we have to ask ourselves, how much oil is enough? Well, truthfully, the best is to have as much oil passing through the motor as possible without it stalling. But we're looking for performance, not running the motor for 25 years. So, let's figure out about the fuel first.

Fuels are an important decision for your truck. Some fuels have good additives and oil mixes, and some really lack in the lubrication department. So, picking a good quality fuel is an important factor when running your truck. I suggest such brands as O'Donnell's, Blue Thunder, or Trinity Monster. Make sure to pick a good fuel, with good lube inside!

Now, if you haven't broke the motor in yet, go read this thread first and check out my reply. Reply #40!. Then we can tune her up, and get to playing!

https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4605




So, now that we have a broke in engine, getting that tune can be difficult. So, we'll take it one step at a time. Now, tuning in general can be done almost anywhere, as long as the conditions aren't too extreme. The biggest factor lies in you, and your ability to pay attention to the truck.

Three setting screws (some motors only have two, or one in some cases)

For a the best description of where to find the tuning screws, please refer to your manual. Every motor can be different, so check the manual for the best possible information on their locations!


First, the most important, the High Speed needle! This is where we'll be doing most of our work. This is the main needle for adjustment, since it controls the main amount of fuel being allowed into the carb. So, we'll get more into this setting further into the guide.

Second, the Low Speed needle. Now, this is the idle process at it's best. It's hard to understand how this needle effects the motor, but we'll learn a little about it, and how to set it through this guide!

Third, the Idle screw! It pretty much explains itself! We'll set this after we get the motor where we want it!



Most important thing to remember when tuning, and I'll stress this again and again. Pay attention to the motor! It'll show you all the signs you need to tell if it's running to rich or to lean! PAY ATTENTION!!! lol


A lot of people like adjusting the low speed needle first, I however don't, since it seems to have little impact on performance tuning before you set the high speed needle. So we'll start with the high speed, then hit the low speed.


This is the part where you can make it or break it. Improper tuning can cause serious damage to the motor, so make sure you pay attention. First thing, grab a new glow plug from your local hobby shop. Nothing can bork a good tune better than a fouled glow plug. You may thing your plug is fine, when indeed it could be causing more tuning trouble than you can imagine.

Things you'll need for the high speed needle... Just one.. LONG and thin flat head screwdriver! You'll be tuning with the body on, since the body can effect the airflow going to the motor. So, get one that can reach that needle!

Now, get the motor running, and warm it up. Do a couple lower speed laps,or runs. Just make sure to get her warmed up. After she's nice and warmed up give he some throttle, run a few full throttle passes and bring her to full speed! Then, quickly get a temperature shot of the glowplug. (You can also do the "spit test" where you actually spit into the head). The temps you are looking for are different, and you can refer to the list near the bottom of the guide to help you find the correct temperatures. I'll also list ideas on how the "spit" test will work.

Now, go by your manual here. Make sure you know which direction to tune the motor to lean and richen! Most needles are counterclockwise to richen then, and clockwise to lean them out. So, make sure you go by what your manual says. If you don't have the manual, find out using the resources you have, such as this forum, or other internet resources! Just make sure you know.

Now, the High Speed needle is used to set the carb's max allowed fuel intake. This setting basically sets the fuel to air ratio that the carb will push into the motor. The more fuel, the richer the mix. The more air, the leaner. Engines thrive on air, and fuel alike. So, any combo can actually "work", but finding the right one for the performance value is tricky on occasion.

Now, if the motor is running above 260F, you're probably running too lean. This can be harmful to the motor, and you certainly need to richen the high speed needle up! Now, below 180F, you might have a serious problem. Please refere to the Ambient temperature section to see if you could be running into a temperature problem due to certain outside temperatures!

Running from 200F to 240F is the area you're looking for! Use about 1/8th of a turn to either richen or lean out the needle some. Then repeat the full speed runs for a minute or two. Get your motor into the range above! In that range is having a good start to your successful tune! If the motor is running too hot, richen it up an 1/8th turn or so. If it's running cold, but you want a little more, then lean it out about an 1/8th turn. Once you find a spot after full speed runs back and fourth, then proceed to the next section.

Fine tuning that needle! Now, since we're sitting somewhere the motor will be happy, you have a job to do! You need to pick reliability over performance. The leaner you go with the needle, the more the lifetime of your motor decreases. So, running it leaner may mean higher power, but will certainly shorten the life of the motor! Now, once you pick where you'll be happy, use very small turns on the needle to get it where you're wanting it. Remember, richening the motor will cool it down, and leaning out the motor will produce higher temperatures! Every time you turn the needle at all, you need to run some full speed runs, to get that motor stressing. This is where the heat is going to be the biggest factor. So, remember, get it to full speed a few times, then as quickly as you can, check that temperature!

Note : If you ever notice your engine doesn't produce exaust smoke under acceleration, shut it down immediately! This is a sign of running way to lean, or possibly out of fuel. This will cause serious damage to the motor, so here it is again.. Pay Attention! The motor will give you signs!

Now, getting the setting will be difficult, but you must choose where you want to be, and get that setting down! It may take a few tanks, but it will be worth the time after you're finished. Remember to make sure you use small increments when fine tuning, as drastic changes can have serious side effects! So, be patient, and tune with precision, not a need for speed. :)

So, you finally got that high speed set? You think she's running like a champ? She flying now? Well, let's make her do some more tricks!
 
Due to forum limitations, I had to spread to a second post! So lets continue where we left off!

Now, many people don't like adjusting, or even talking about the beast that is the Low Speed Needle. The truth is, this needle can settle many scores on the track! First, let's explain what this needle actually does.

Now, this needle controls the idle "input" of fuel in general. It actually has more of a job, but we'll leave it to that as a general idea. Getting into the details on this screw could be an hours read. The settings on this screw have a major effect, but there's little signs of the effects it does have! So, you must be careful when setting this screw, as it could be too lean, and causing damage to your motor when you don't even know.

Now, theres two major things this screw controls. Idle, and punch (as I call it). Basically, this controls how lean the motor runs when idling. This may not mean much, but it's other side effect is quite dandy! This also plays a MAJOR effect on your acceleration. Basically, it controls how "hard" you get a takeoff from idle to full throttle. Setting this screw takes time and practice! It's hard to notice, but as soon as you smash the throttle, you'll notice either a lag in smoke, or a perfect match in smoke to RPM. If it lags a bit, you're running the low speed needle to lean, if it's a perfect match, the you're alright. Remember, always pay attention to the details, and the temperatures!

There's one really good way to test how your setting of the Low Speed needle. There are a few ways, but only one comes to mind when I'm thinking of an easy way. Get your motor running, and nice and warm. Run it for about 5 minutes or so to make sure everything is warmed up to running temperature. Now, pay attention to the result. Pinch off the fuel line going to the carb, as close to the carb as you can. For a really good tune, the motor should just barely jump in RPM and die. A rich tune, in turn, will result in a higher spike in RPM, then the motor will die. If you're running to lean, the motor will just die without spiking at all in RPM. I personally prefer running this setting just a little rich, as I do with both needles. I like my engines running for long periods of time! :) Try the different settings until you get the needle where you like it. This needle will have the greatest impact of performance when you're trying to get that "launch" you want off the line.

Now, with both the High and Low speed set to where you want it, it's time to set that beloved idle screw. Now, remember, these motors shouldn't idle for long periods of time. After about 5-10 seconds they should "load up" with fuel and stall. This isn't a bad thing, as it's proving that your motor is getting enough lubrication. The secret is getting the best tune, while staying rich as possible.

Now set the idle somewhere you like it. But make sure, when setting the idle screw that the truck doesn't move when idling. This means it's engaging the clutch and that means more wear and tear on it than you want.

Now, as i said earlier, I'd shed some light on the ambient temperature details. The optimal tuning temperature is around 60F. But, if you're going to be running in hotter temperatures, tune it to them. Make sure of this though. If you're tuning to 60F, don't run in the extremes of 90F or 30F, since the tune was for 60F. The effects of ambient temperature can be harsh. Specially going from hot to cold. Running a 60F tune in 30F or lower can cause the motor to run a lot leaner then you want. There's good reasoning behind this. As air gets colder, it condenses. Basically there's more air per square inch the colder it gets. This in turn means your motor may be sucking the same "amount" of air, but it's actually getting more air then in a hotter climate. So, make sure, if you tune your engine for 60F, and you plan on running at say, 40F, readjust the tune for the weather, as it can have a great effect on performance and runtime. My general rule of thumb is to always retune for weather if I'm running in a 10 degree difference. Make sure you remember, the colder it gets, the leaner it will run.

Now, for tuning under 32F. The ambient temperature is COLD, and the motor is getting a nice chill from the outside air, and you're reading 240F or so temps on your head. This could be detrimental to your motor. The effect of such cold air can actually cause you to get a bogus reading of your temps. I've seen trucks run at 240F in 20F weather and burn up quick! This is because of the extra cooling the motor is getting from such cold air, and it's just not giving you an accurate temperature to show how lean the motor really is running. I've made a small list here to help avoid this problem.

32F - 220F is usually denoting around 240F
20F - 220F would actually denote something around 250F
10F - 220F would actually denote somewhere around 260F!

This is why it actually can cause serious problems with tuning in the cold extremes. Even though you're showing good temperatures, the extra cooling provided can actually "hide" the truth! So, make sure you adjust for the weather, and pay attention to the motor.

Good/Bad - Rich/Lean temps, spit idea included :)

200F RICH, not a bad temp, but low performance. The spit test will result in no bubbling/boiling.
210F Still rich but getting somwhere for performance. Spit test results are the same.
220F Somewhat rich, but more performance. Spit test should result in a delayed bubbling. About 5-7 seconds or so.
230F Near perfect in my opinion. Spit test will result in bubbling within 3-5 seconds.
240F Closer to the lean side, Spit test results in close to immediate bubbling, some steam will arise.
250F and beyond.. LEAN! Spit test results in immediate heavy boiling with a lot of steam. Be warned, these high temps can be harmful to your motor. Richen it up.

Remember to pay attention to the motor, look for nice amounts of smoke from the exaust. Another key thing to watch for running lean is bogging. If your motor is overheating and running to lean, it will have a tendency to choke under throttle. This is another one of the major signs of a lean tune. It's time to richen the needle!

Key rule of thumb. If I'm running a lean tune, and have to richen the needle, I ALWAYS keep the motor running. In a major lean scenario, where the motor is pushing 260 or higher, I'll usually richen the high speed needle by at least 1/4th turn and run it around in slow circles. Remember, the oils in the fuel also provide cooling. So, keep a close eye on the motor!

Now, once you've learned a bit about tuning, I suggest you check out SJ's entry for tuning! His post has a little more "in depth" approach for tuning leaning more towards the advanced user. My guide is simply to provide the initial information to know about when tuning your motor from a beginners point of view. If you have any questions, please let me know!

Here is the link to SJ's posting on Nitro Engine Tuning!
https://www.hpisavageforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1726

If I've missed any important details, please let me know; as writing this guide has taken me three days of going through my personal notes. I might have forgot something, and will add it if necessary! :)
 
great info!! on a subject i bet we have all had problems with at one time or another, thanks for posting!!
 
Everyone I know has at least once came up to me and asked me about tuning. Mostly beginners ask the most questions. I didn't notice a guide for more of the "beginner" crowd. So I figured I'd fill a gap. :)
 
Great work, I especially appreciate the cold weather tuning section, thanks!

Hey, that's a main factor where I live. Sometimes we get temps below 0 for days at a time. A lot of the local runners don't realize how hot their motors are actually running. Even with a temp gun, extreme cold climates can have a major effect on how the exterior of the motor shows it's heat. Many times, a motor showing 240F on the outside can actually be running close to 300F on the inside. I've seen motors burn out because of this time and time again. :) Motors aren't cheap, so tuning is crucial. That's why I take the time, for everyone to have the info at hand!
 
Yep run leaner on hot day and richer on cold days
 
Great info for me, as I am a newbie...

One question, though. I've read in the Savage X 4.6 manual that I should never turn more than "2 and 1/2" turns from flush for the High speed needle and "2" turns from flush for the Low speed needle.

These settings mean that they are the extreme settings, with the motor running extremly lean, or these settings mean that above the motor starts the "red zone", if I compare it to a real car (the red zone of the RPMs).

So basically, above these settings starts the "red zone" or they are the extreme end of the "red zone"?

Thanks.
 
Great info for me, as I am a newbie...

One question, though. I've read in the Savage X 4.6 manual that I should never turn more than "2 and 1/2" turns from flush for the High speed needle and "2" turns from flush for the Low speed needle.

These settings mean that they are the extreme settings, with the motor running extremly lean, or these settings mean that above the motor starts the "red zone", if I compare it to a real car (the red zone of the RPMs).

So basically, above these settings starts the "red zone" or they are the extreme end of the "red zone"?

Thanks.


i may have already said this but welcome to the forum!! i've lost track as we have had alot of newcomers lately but glad ya found us!!
 
If you're running in an extremely cold environment, and you turn the HSN in by 2.5 turns, you're gonna burn it up quick. Those are limits to where the needles will actually bottom out, or close to it. These settings will 99% of the time burn your motor up.

The best way to tune is to watch your temps and your smoke trail. If you are running too lean, usually the motor will show signs of extreme heat and low or no smoke from the exaust. In my area, the needles only needed turned about 3/4 a turn to get a really good tune. My engine wouldn't even run at 2 turns. :)

It all depends on your area and weather. Air conditions and other factors that make the engine intake more or less air. Remember, as the manual says, from 220 to 260 is optimal temperatures. :)
 

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