Directdrive Your Ride

[DOOBEEWHA]

===================================================INTRODUCTION================================================== ==
There may come a time when you say to yourself, in Yogy Bear's voice, F%$k the slipper clutch, BOOBOO!!!.... And GO DIRECTDRIVE.

I think I fully understand the principals behind the slippers application, yet for my needs, the slipper clutch is more hassle than it's worth. This mod is not for
newbies who don't know about the splipper's purpose and safety benifits.

And yet ironically, it's the newbee that gets the most out of the whole thing. It spares him/her the frustration that inspired the mod to begin with.

So...if your a newbee, find out what you can about the slipper's purpose from numerous sources to know what's up with it, in general. If you read this entire
thread's content, you should be able to form your own opinion.

I think if you compete in full out racing and need slingshot exceleration while getting big air all day, then keep the slipper. Otherwize, why not check out the
confidence one gets from having HP at the trigger rather that the slipper.
The danger to the tranny is only present if land your jumps at a high rev, which you should'nt be doing anyway. So don't do that!...lol.

Now,.. I don't need to be dependant on splipper parts any longer. And if I change my mind and need a slipper setup, I can simply swap setup's in 5 min.

There's few things that compare to the hassle of discovering you have a glazed slipper pad, a self loosening shaft nut, a scribed slipper ring, or a melted spur
gear hub.

Before running the directdrive spur gear, do a re-mounting of the flywheel and clutch bell. Just be sure that your flywheel is seated very firmly,
and the nut
is on tight. Use a tiny, tiny amount of blue thread lock on the shaft threads, near the collet. Make sure that the blue doesn't get to the bearring
behind the collet. By doing this, you can be extra sure that the flywheel is secure and able to hold it's own.

If anyone would like to know about making thier own directdrive spur, Then just read the following post, below.
I'm gonna make this discription in quick form to save a little time......lol.

==After losing the last draft of this post I typed into cyberspace, I figure anyone can post questions for any area's of my discription that need clarifying.==
Supplies, Parts, and Tools.

1) SteTo begin, get another spur gear w/ slipper pad, spur gear bushing, that little hex washer that goes up against the bushing, and the aluminum
back plate for the slipper ring from your LHS. The reason for the this is that you'll have a back up spare in case you have any problems with getting this mod
in place.

2) Now remove the engine and spur gear assembly from the truck then set aside. What we are going to do is basically this: "Lock the spur gear to the
back plate". If your good with tools persay, then this mod is about a 5 on a scale of 1 to 10. The important part to this mod is getting the spur gear and the
back plate to be well-centered while being fastened securely using at minimum, two machine threaded bolts.

3) You'll also will need to locate a tapping bit or two in case one snaps.(they are very easy to break at this size). They need to be matched to the size
bolts I suggest. There is some room for variance here but, you want to sellect bolts that are not longer than the thickness (depth) of the spur
gear/backplate assembly. In fact, I would suggest 1/8 in. shorter so there's less chance of any obstruction in the rotation path of the spur. I also
recommend an 1/8 in. maximum size tap for this mod.

4) Of course, if your going to proceed, your going to need to pre-drill the tap hole locations with a 3/32 in. drill bit so a tap can be used. Having a 12 in.
long 3/32 drill bit about now, would be great because, you would be able to drill the pilot holes through the bulkheads while the new spur assembly is
pre-mounted, giving yourself a perfect alignment and centering position for your tap locations. I used an extention w/ drill bit chuck.

5) Needless to say, this is the way I recommend you tap the spur assembly. This, knowing that most of us don't have a sellection of foot-long drill bits.

I'll suggest a plan B later.

6) The last thing we need is a small piece ( 2 x 4 in.) of sanding screen.(Having some extra screen is advised so you can have this reserved for other
spur sizes that have there own assembly.) The screen is used to take up the thickness of the removed slipper ring, and provide a good
bite against the spur.

===================================================================================================================


Pic.1---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Pic.2

Pic.3---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Pic.4

Pic,5---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Pic.6

Pic.7---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Pic.8

Pic.9---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------Pic.10

 

[DOOBEEWHA]

7) Step 1.
Center punch two hole locations at apposing ends on the back of the spur gear. A 1/2 in. from dead center of the hub, inbetween the fins.
Install the bushing into the hub and then the slipper pad into the spur gear like normal and set aside. Then, cut the 2 x 4 in. screen into halfs, making
two 2 x 2 in. pieces.
Now take one of the screens and trim it in to a circle, the same diameter as the aluminum backplate. Trim the other screen in the
same way. Now trim screen 1 so it can lay flush with the keyed surface of the backplate. Both screens are going to need thier centers trimmed out to
allow for the assembly to be slid on to the tranny's input shaft.

8) Step 2.
Place screen 1 on the backplate in the flush, keyed position as implied above. Then place screen 2 on to screen 1, and center it's position.
This screen is optional, and may make the spur assembly too thick.(extra screen not shown in photo). Don't use it if that's the case. The goal here is to
create a spur asembly that is the same thickness as a normal slipper setup.

9) Step 3.
Install the pin for the inputshaft. Pickup the backplate w/ screen(s) and place the spur gear in position were it would normally be sandwiched against
the backplate in your hand. Proceed to align the fins of the spur and the fins of the backplate, in a way to allow for the tap locations to be
drilled without drilling through the fins.
There is a position that will allow for two holes to be drilled. Now, find that position, and then slip the assembly on to the input shaft.
Do this, while not letting go of the assembly. Now place the hex washer against the bushing and tighten up the spring with the nut.
Back off one 1/2 turn from full tight. If the fins are still not in the position desired, Loosen the the nut enough to re-adjust fins if needed, making sure
that the screen doesn't shift position. Return the nut to the prescribed tension above.

10) Step 4.
Your now ready to drill pilot holes. The locations of these holes arn't exactly critical but, keeping the bolt holes an equal distance from the
center of the tranny's input shaft will help in preventing an imbalance to occure. I was able to use a drill extension with a chuck attatched on the end.
This allowed me to drill pilot holes first and then tap each hole for the two apposing hole positions with a standard sized drill bit and tap.

As mentioned earlier, I gained a good vantage point for drilling through the front bulkhead.
This is easier than pulling the tranny out for the mod. (If you have these tools in your service, then proform the method outlined above. If not, skip
to plan B. now.) Now, remove the spur gear from the assemebly, and strip out the threads that you just created from the spur gear itself.

DO NOT STRIP OUT THE ALUMINUM BACKPLATE THREADS!!!

Now, re-assemble the assembly, insert the bolts, and tighten equally with red lock-tite. Now, install as per instructed and spin the spur gear on the shaft
to see that it's NOT spinning out of round or wobley.

IF IT'S OUT OF ROUND, YOU WILL NEED TO TRY AGAIN at different hole locations until you get it right. Place hex washer, spring, and inputshaft
nut, against the spur and tighten to the prescribed spring tension. Reinstall engine and set the mesh. Use blue thread lock on the motor plate bolts.
YOUR DONE.

PLAN B: As you probably know, there's more than one way to skin a cat, right? While holding the disscribed spur assembly in my hand, with the
propper fin positions in place, I was able to align the backplate and spur gear on to the input shaft and then carefully remove it so I could then clamp it
in a vise or a c-clamp. Both clamping methods work fine but, I preffered the vice for that extra hand effect. While in the vise, I drilled one pilot hole and
tapped it.
After drilling the first hole and tap, I inserted a bolt to help maintain a locked alignment position while clamped. I then drilled the other hole's pilot and tap.
I inserted the remaining bolt and installed the spur on to the shaft with the spring and nut as dirrected above and gave it a spin. As indicated above,
"if it's out of round, you need to try again." If it's OK, then remove the spur from the shaft, disassemble the spur, and drill out the threads of the
spur ONLY. DO NOT DRILL OUT THE THREADS OF THE ALUMINUM BACKPLATE!!!

Reassemble with lock tite-Red and install the spur assembly back onto the tranny's input shaft, followed by the hex washer, spring, and tighten the nut
one half turn back from full tight. I set the mesh and tightened the motor plate bolts with blue thread-lock.

=================================================YOUR DONE.====================================================

Now here's where the extra screen material comes in. Make a dirrect drive spur for every size. And make an extra one in your favorite size incase you damage
your favorite sized one down the road. There's nothing like having backups when you need one! And having differrent sized clutch bells are also par for the
course.... Now start her up! and GO! This Plan B method is not as precise as the first example but, it is the quickest. I've had good results in proforming this
method.... Good luck.

 

[polystyrene]

the slipper is there to save the tranny when the engine unloads too much, not under normal circumstances. if you have the slipper set just right you wont lose any engine power through it under normal driving circumstances and you will have the protection in place that the slipper provides when needed.

the only time i locked my slipper is when the engine unloaded and burnt out the slipper pads, i didnt have a spare with me at the track and it was during a race day so i just put 2 screws through the slipper assembly to lock it. did me til the end of the day but after that it came straight off.

 

[Jeremy]

wouldn't it just be eaiser to crank the nut down all the way, ??????

 

[RangerRock]

wouldn't it just be eaiser to crank the nut down all the way, ??????

Lol thats what I do................

 

[DOOBEEWHA]

-Revised on 06-04-07

Hey, polyS. I understand you may not see the point in doing this mod.
You did not have to edit out, all the negitive feedback you had in your post here, on 6-2-07. This, in regards to your edited statements of discontent with how I presented this thread.
Everyone has a right to say as they feel, no matter if it's positive or negitive, in nature. This, I firmly believe. I will not re-edit my initial response, in light of your re-edited post, PolyS.

Asking you as a personal consideration prior to my comments here to simply relocate your post to an alternate area in this thread, was all I could really ask from a reasonable forum
member. Having to get assistants at a higher level was very helpful. And thank you, to the other forum members who were very reasonable and considerate, in relocating thier posts
as I requested.

I would never knowingly suggest, in the spirt of bias sensorship, that your comments, ever be edited or removed from this or any other thread, Poly.
Although, it would be much more effective and helpful on your part, to send me a PM, rather than a post of your "helpful" constructive comments that inform me about the ways this
thread should appear to you. This would be a thoughtful consideration at minimum, for at least not derailling the the thread's subject matter. That is, of course, providing you the benifit
of the doubt, that it's not intentional.

Now.... In addressing your comments of "Not Seeing The Point" to all of this, let's pick up where the following applies.
For some of us out here, this mod just might be what we've been looking for. I say this, due to the fact, that the Savage, by nature, is a pain in the a$$ to work on, as you might agree.
There's very few "easy to get to's" on this sadistically designed truck.This is why more than half the savage mods on this site are based in creating a better way to get to something.

Please don't get me wrong here, folks... I dig my Savage, I dig it enough to put up with this kind of nuckle trashing tourture, it provides me....lol.

But all bandaids aside, when I see an opportunity to avoid a repair and maitainance issue from features on the truck that are more BS, than it's usefulness, than who's to say, otherwise?
Yes, the slipper clutch is a form of protection, that the modder should be very well aware of. You should know the purpose behind the applications design. (for to those who want it)
I've indicated this, in the intro post.
If you don't want the convieneince of not having to change or adjust slipper pads, remove glazing from a pad and reinstall, replace wornout input shaft nuts and spring, and I say this
because, they don't sell half this stuff sepperately.
Ok..where was I... replace brass bushing, hex washer, melted spur gear hub, slipper ring ect,.... then please, be my guest, and keep the slipper clutch.
More power to the guy that wants it. There's no sense in changing something that works for you. It's totally fine to use a slipper clutch as your choice in the matter, period.

On the other hand, there are those that understand why I'm just not in harmony with the requirement to stop and address maintainance issues, every time the slipper needs attention.

You have to break loose the 4 engine mounting bolts, disconnect linkages, free the pipe, remove fuel lines,....FIX THE PROBLEM,.... re-mesh the lash, thread lock the bolts,...connect
up everything you've disconnected it, ect,......ENOUGH ALREADY!!!!.

I don't need a slipper clutch that badly. It can tax my patients more than the rest of the truck already does. This came to the point of myself, not even getting a chance to drive the
frig'in thing... Does that sound familiar to anyone here?... Have I been missing out on the joys of slipper clutch bliss?... I think not.

This is because my vision of slipper bliss is all about never having to use or see the things, again.

In all honnesty, I've dealt with all of the things mentioned above, first hand, more than one time or another. This is why I dare to say... How about this frigin way?
I have not experienced a single problem to speak of, in regards to this altered setup. All of the things that I can say about the effect it has on proformance, reliabillity, and
maintainance are all positives.

Of course, I can only speak for myself... I can only share my thoughts and opinions based on my own experiences... With this mod, I just wanted to provide some foundation, for this
viable option.

============================== Simply put, this mod is for those who want to break away from this slipper clutch dependantcy.====================================
.

 

[DOOBEEWHA]

-
=========================================================================================

1st, To simply over tighten the spur gear nut is no insurance from a tight adjustment that's loosens enough to slip.
This gennerates hub melting heat from a glazing slipper pad. This will lead to accessive heat, which causes the spur
gear to melt at the hub.

2nd, A high level of heat, that's transfered from the cutch bell, onto the spur gear teeth, can cause the spur gear to
take on enough heat thoughout the spur and cause a softening of the spur hub.
All that, without melting the teeth.

This is rare in occurance, due to the fact that the teeth on the spur will melt first as soon as the truck comes to a stop.
Under the right conditions, if the truck the doesn't come to a stop and continues to generate heat at the CB by
driving in sand or tallgrass while still driving on flat surfaces also, this can eventually heat the entire spur, leading to a
melting hub.
This is due to the fact that, "heat goes to cold". The metal bushing acts at first, as a heat sink. As it takes on an
increasing amount heat. It will begin to insulate this heat, which in turn, begins to melt the hub that is still resisting the
deminishing presure, of a very tight nut and spring.

Now we have a melting hub, that releases the spring tension, causing slippage at the slipper, due to accessive heat
from the CB.

And of course, the spur is roasted at this point. Those are the two main sinario's.

My attempt in the beginning was to over tighten as you suggested, S.J. And it worked for a short period of time until
the above comments took place. Not to mention, the nut and spring lost thier strengh and tightness which helpped
lead to this failure, from the start. Truck down, $$ parts, Anger management.

The slipper clutch has a far better chance of survival when it's adjusted normally, rather than being way over tightenning
it. That's why "I don't just tighten it down."

Now, I don't have to pay attention to it at all. Let alone fuss with it.


For most of us, we can see how we are lead to believe that the manufactures, with thier ad campains, say the parts
they provide us, are the parts we need. So be it.

But For someone that's able to bypass the intentional design limitations of a products purpose, and then manage to
ascape the retail objectives of it's product support for this said design limitation,...
Well then my friends,... That someone just might be trying to reflect the importance of

============================ "thinking outside of the box".=====================================
.

 

[DOOBEEWHA]

Lol thats what I do................

THEN DO IT. By the way, I thought you were having some real problems with your spur, Savage25. This mod here isn't the cure for your problem, but your comment might carry more weight if you had your own spur in order, BRO

 

[Defiantspaz]

Very interesting. A side thought about just cranking down on the stock slipper assembly. The spring in the slipper assembly isn't square when compressed. If you crank down too hard you will bend the shaft connecting the slipper to the transmission. If the shaft bends either the bearing in the transmission will suffer or the spur gear will whobble and give a really bad mesh.

For someone who wants a solid engine to CB to spur to transmission connection this is a good idea. Not evryone bashes, some people do flat track racing with no jumps. If you drive on pavement of don't get any air this is a good mod. If you are a jumping loony like me, stick with the slipper.

Side note, truggies and buggies don't have slippers and they catch some major air with out destroying their CB/spur gear setup, so maybe this mod will work for everyone. But they also don't have multiple speed transmissions either, who knows.

 

[DOOBEEWHA]

Sounds reasonable to me.
thank you DS for your insight.
Note: I've have had no trouble jumping, big, high, big and high, jumps. It's breaking something else that usually happens. The very mili-second you back off the throttle, you dis-ingage the CB, thus protecting the tranny from harm.

 

[polystyrene]

I can maybe see the point of using the locked slipper for racing, but I don't think the comparison is exactly the same a buggy/truggy. I think the 2/3 speed gearbox gearbox is probably the cause for the need of a slipper.

It may be needed for jumping, when landing in 2nd or 3rd gear causes the gearbox to stall for a second, the shock of this may require the slipper. This is one of the reasons race spec buggys/truggys are only 1 speed.

Just my guess, I'm not 100% on this.

 

[Crash]

great post doob
I have been chasing the spur gear demon for a while. I have had every problem you described, after checking everything over and over i could only get about 40 minutes of bashing out of a spur. (picco outlaw .26)
I just put a robinson hardened spur on it, that worked great for two tanks of gas. I forgot to change the clutch bell to hardened, oops.
Now, with full set of hardened its go n well. I have got about five tanks through it and its fun actually getting to drive it instead of fix n it.
Ill definitly try that mod if the lhs demon comes back.

 

[gzus11]

I appreciate the effort you have put inbut what is wrong with using standard formatting
with the Enter key

Buggies and truggoes work without a slipper because they have three diffs which allow alot more give on a harsh landing than a centre spool does. the centre diff distributes any shock to the opposing output shaft and the cb.

What you have done here is much neater than the one I have, although i keep it for emergency use only, when i have no spares.

 

[DOOBEEWHA]

great post doob
I have been chasing the spur gear demon for a while. I have had every problem you described, after checking everything over and over i could only get about 40 minutes of bashing out of a spur. (picco outlaw .26)
I just put a robinson hardened spur on it, that worked great for two tanks of gas. I forgot to change the clutch bell to hardened, oops.
Now, with full set of hardened its go n well. I have got about five tanks through it and its fun actually getting to drive it instead of fix n it.
Ill definitly try that mod if the lhs demon comes back.

Thankx Crash.
I new there were some that had these slipper headaches at one time or another. That is what this thread is dedicated to, in my view.

I really had no clue on how to get these posts to shape up. I suppose that may have lead to frustrating some as much as it did me, believe me.

Your feedback meant alot, Crash.
Some of my replies may have seemed very to the point and that wasn't an accident.
When you take the time and effort to bring something to the table, it can be anyone's guess on what the reception will be like.
It certaintly wasn't my intention to force this thread and it's content on anyone that likes there ixisting setup.
Well.. hey, crash. thankx again, bud.

 

[savagecre]

this mod seems to have some merit because I bash with DOOBEE. We have gone off some insano jumps. All the while his slipper is locked and never once a problem. It seems that well I thought that this forum was for sharing Ideas and thoughts and not everyone is going to see eye to eye but at least a new bee can see what we savagers have done. Then conclude there own Idea...........am I wrong hear .

 

[DOOBEEWHA]

Hey gzus11, Wanted to say thankx for your attempt to remove your first post in exchange for this one. It was clearly my own doing that lent to the problem, to begin with. As for my text formating issues, it's gonna take some time, but I do intend to improve ASAP. If you would PM me with a quick list of the basic formating features with instructed examples, you would be king for a day. Your techical remarks were also informative, gzus11. thanks again.

 

[DOOBEEWHA]

Hey thanks, bro.
It's kind of remarkable to trip on the Taboo vibe this subject has exposed. It's like, A whole lota members viewed it. and only a few had something to say about it.

And the real irony is, This mod is very affordable, can potentially save $$$ down the road, removes grief and maitainance issues, adds more run time by way of reducing down time, and is highly unlikely to harm the tranny.

The trick is all in the throttle. Any intermediate RC driver soon learns about matching RPM's to air travel. It is landding massive jumps that require you to be aware of the basics.

Don't land big-*** jumps, at or near, full throttle. Dudes that are in to back flips, endo flips, need to pay attention to this one.

And aviod big-*** landings with brake or zero throttle. And that's it. Your good To Go! As your jumping improves, you should be matching your RPM's with flight speed, right as you land, as simple as that.

 

[Speedster]

k, well i think that the whole taking good minutes of my life to do that to my savvy would be a waste of everyone of those minutes. the thing has plenty of power as it is so i don't really see the point.

 

[DOOBEEWHA]

Well if ya ever find ya need to take the bad minutes to get'in slipper parts, and ya will, at some point, you will have already lost the good minutes ya saved x10 +$, put'in her back in runn'in order, only to find it will happen again.

That's the point of when it all adds up to bad minutes.

 

[polystyrene]

with this mod youre just as likely to strip a spur gear as you are when the slipper is in place, and i have only ever seen 1 savage at our track burn out a slipper pad, and a fair few strip the spur gear.

taking the time to mod all youre spare spur gears onto hubs will take longer that just replacing a worn out spur, and you still have a slipper clutch protecting your transmission

 

[DOOBEEWHA]

Although this mod has a noticable effect on the way you can feel the solid connection between the CB, and input shaft,.. The main purpose behind this mod is to reduce, if not completely eliminate, the need for parts, maintainance, and time lost.

 

[Fx]

I still don't understand why you can't just crank the nut all the way down....

 

[DOOBEEWHA]

with this mod youre just as likely to strip a spur gear as you are when the slipper is in place, and i have only ever seen 1 savage at our track burn out a slipper pad, and a fair few strip the spur gear.

taking the time to mod all youre spare spur gears onto hubs will take longer that just replacing a worn out spur, and you still have a slipper clutch protecting your transmission

Seems to me that if your stripping your spur gear, you might benifit by learnning of the causes of that symptom.

1)Setting your mesh corectly.

2) Choosing the propper gearing to reduce CB heat.

3) Taking the time to mod your spur will insure the life of said spur.

4) If you don't know how to drive without the need of a slipper spur setup, then keep it.
========= You'll need it.==========

 

[gzus11]

if you have understood the symptoms and remedied them all by the means you have stated, tightening the slipper will be just as good as this adaptation.

Changing a spur will take the same amount of time with or without this mod, as you will still have remove the nut, spring, washer and engine to get the gear out and new one back in.

As poly stated it is far more common for the spur teeth to strip than the pad melt. There are many causes for the teeth to strip, what you have mentioned and loose mountings, bent input shaft or bodies lodged between the gears, where the only cause for the melted pad is the slipper being too loose, slipping and generating heat.

Even for the experienced among us spurs will strip due to the unknown or just unlucky, so they need to be changed on occasion (ive been lucky so far spur holding up against cracked engine plate and loose CB) with this mod you will need to drill all of your new spare spurs exactly the same as the original.

 

[polystyrene]

Seems to me that if your stripping your spur gear, you might benifit by learnning of the causes of that symptom. 1)Setting your mesh corectly. 2) Choosing the propper gearing to reduce CB heat. 3) Taking the time to mod your spur will insure the life of said spur. 4) If you don't know how to drive without the need of a slipper spur setup, then keep it. You'll need it.

you can strip the spur even when its set right. ive replaced a fair few in my time to learn how to mesh them.

taking the time to do this mod will not help with the life of the spur, if anything it will reduce it.

even if you know how to drive without a slipper, there are always going to be moments when you take a knock or a bad landing, or something throws your attention for a slight moment. times like those you will wish you had kept the slipper and saved on some maintenance time, and having to go buy new parts

 

[DOOBEEWHA]

I still don't understand why you can't just crank the nut all the way down....

Hey, FX. In post #8 on this thread, I explain it abit. don't take the tone of it personally. It's not directed at you, ok. And then get back to me. thanks

 

[DOOBEEWHA]

if you have understood the symptoms and remedied them all by the means you have stated, tightening the slipper will be just as good as this adaptation.

Changing a spur will take the same amount of time with or without this mod, as you will still have remove the nut, spring, washer and engine to get the gear out and new one back in.

As poly stated it is far more common for the spur teeth to strip than the pad melt. There are many causes for the teeth to strip, what you have mentioned and loose mountings, bent input shaft or bodies lodged between the gears, where the only cause for the melted pad is the slipper being too loose, slipping and generating heat.

Even for the experienced among us spurs will strip due to the unknown or just unlucky, so they need to be changed on occasion (ive been lucky so far spur holding up against cracked engine plate and loose CB) with this mod you will need to drill all of your new spare spurs exactly the same as the original.

The extra time one may take to have backup spurs will pay off in the long run.
I believe I see your point gzus11, but I feel there are more complications with over tightening the spur.

And as for Poly's comments, maybe he can show us where I suggested that this mod prevents teeth stripping, or be a racing setup. Hmmmmmm?
I've made it very clear that this mod doesn't apply to everybody's needs. Yet he's got something to prove.
My position on expressing that everyone has the abillity to choose for themselfs doesn't ring a bell for him, I guess. What can I say about that.
He wants to debate without an open mind, that's his problem, not mine.

This thread's content was an OFFERING to the forum, not a campain. I really had no idea that it would bring such opposition from left field, so to speak.
In my attempt to stand up for the general principal of this subject matter, I find that the issues opposing are off subject and don't relate to subject's benifits.

But thank you for your comments. I'll give them more thought.

 

[DOOBEEWHA]

SO what is your point, POLY.

This mod is not for you.
Or does it consern you that maybe it's for someone else? Or maybe your just abit peeved that I had your post striped out of the center of this thread's intro, due to your inconsiderate disregard to move it yourself upon my request.
I'm sure it's one of the three, and most likely the latter.

And to actually say that this mod will reduce the life of the spur has got to be the most unfounded statement I've heard in a long while.

=================== As it truely explains why you've "Replaced a fair amount of spurs in your time."========================

 

[Defiantspaz]

I still don't understand why you can't just crank the nut all the way down....

Oh, you can just crank down on the slipper assembly's nut to lock the slipper up. I don't recomend doing it.

Try this, take the slipper assembly apart and squeaze the spring with a set of channel lock pliars. The spring doesn't compress into a square. the end of the transmission input shaft is threaded so you can adjust the tension on the spring, it isn't designed to be crushed down on like a wheel nut is. Over tightening the slipper nut can bend the input shaft's threaded area. The shaft itself is very strong but the threads can easily stretch or bend under pressure.

If you want to have a slipper to protect your transmission and gearing then adjust it properly and have fun bashing. If you want to lock the transmission to the spur and eliminate the slipper then I would follow Doob's mod instead of cranking down on the slipper nut. If you want both just have both setups and use them when they will benifit you the most.

 

[polystyrene]

SO what is your point, POLY. This mod is not for you. Or does it consern you that maybe it's for someone else? Or maybe your just abit peeved that I had your post striped out of the center of this thread's intro due to your inconsiderate disregard to move it yourself upon my request. I'm sure it's one of the three, and most likely the latter. And to actually say that this mod will reduce the life of the spur has got to be the most unfounded statement I've heard in a long while, as it truely explains why you've "Replaced a fair amount of spurs in your time."

? doob, you asked me to edit a post and thats what was done. its still there. you have been constantly on the attack in this thread against anybody who has had a comment which contradicts this mod.

i offered some advice to you on how to amend your post layouts to make them easier to read for everybody, so that more people would read it and make there minds up and possibly benefit from this mod. you chose to take a negative tone with me for my help, and then asked gzus for the exact same help.

I agree that youre method of locking the slipper is a good way to do it, clean, well done.

I don't agree with the things you say it benefits. it doesnt take less time to do and mantain. it wont save you form stripping your spur. simple things to point out.

Lastly, you have constantly tried to insult me on this issue, called me 12 years old, inexperienced, immature and a lyer. i have only ever stuck to this topic and will not be drawn into a flame war that you seem to want to have.