Diff replacement options

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ravaging_savage

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I have been searching around looking to upgrade my diffs, that are now for the most part toast. I have read about XL diffs, alloy diffs, unkillable diffs, and a few other kinds. While unkillable diffs sound awesome, the price dosent.

Here is what I have and do with the truck

4.6 SS. I have had it 4 years and the previous owner had it for a sometime time as well. He ran about 2 gallons through it. I have run about 4 gallons through it maybe more. Since I have had the truck The mods that would affect the diff are a axial .28rr, FLM EXT LCG, 100k diff fluid, and 40 series wheels and tires. The diffs Just now died. I typicaly back yard bash. I recently moved to a new house that is new construction so now there is ALOT of graded land around me(I live in FL so Its all sand). I have been bashing there quite a bit and now I can hear the diffs crunching over the sound of the motor.

Basicly what I am looking for something that is strong and is a good value. I am intrested in the xl diffs but i heard you have to use xl dogbones and hubs, which I don't understand. Can't I just change out the drive cups on the xl diff to my current drive cups?

I haven't seen a definitive diff thread yet so I am hoping to get some good responses in this thread so we can have a break down of what the pros and cons of the different diffs are, with a price break down in one thread.

Thanks for any help
 
+1 for Xl diffs. if i was you, while you are in there just get alloy cups. and the new HD ring set up is killer.
 
Yea I did some searching and found tcs crawlers has the bullet proof diffs for much cheaper then the xl diffs. xl diffs are going for about $46 per diff plus shipping. I can get everything from tcs including all new bearings and outdrive cups for about $78. I am currently searching the forum for better bearing options then the hpi ones. If anyone has any good places let me know
 
Also would it be bad to just upgrade the front diff. after breaking down the truck I realized that the rear diff was perfect. Normaly I would just buy both but, I just bought a new house and I have a crap load of stuff to get. I am trying to fix this truck as cheap as possiable so it flys under the radar of my wife, so to speak. :)
 
IF you do the new bullet proof diff you have to do them both. You can put a XL up front though ... Ebay you can get 2 new XL diffs in bulkheads for 50
 
I must be a idiot cause I don't see F&R diffs for $50. I see the one where its F or R for $46.95 a link would be very much appreicated
 
one in your pm box now.... looks like Xmass pricing has started... you can find them 26 bucks buy it now most of the time. I have got a few
 
Also don't bid that link I gave you till the last 5 seconds youll just drive up the price on yourself. Also never post a link your looking at on the site... I have got them drove up just posting in the shout. Members have no honer all will steal your deal lol
 
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ravaging_savage said:
yep I know how to bid properly on ebay. lol
Click to expand...

lol just looking out ...

Back b4 we knew they were junk I got in a bidding war with sunkenmetal caz I posted my link in the shout to a K5.9. Wish I never won that motor though lol
 
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Well the xl diffs went for more then i was gonna pay. So I broke down and got the bullet proof diffs, alloy cases and some new bearing
 
ravaging_savage said:
Well the xl diffs went for more then i was gonna pay. So I broke down and got the bullet proof diffs, alloy cases and some new bearing
Click to expand...

can you link me to all the stuff you bought? I just toasted my diffs both front and rear. The truck doesn't even have anywhere near a gallon through it yet (got it about a month ago), but it seemed to happen as soon as I upgraded to 40 series tires / axial bead locks.
 
Trevor said:
can you link me to all the stuff you bought? I just toasted my diffs both front and rear. The truck doesn't even have anywhere near a gallon through it yet (got it about a month ago), but it seemed to happen as soon as I upgraded to 40 series tires / axial bead locks.
Click to expand...

ya i would imagine the bigger tires put more stress on everything....
 
If I'm not mistaken but those bearings will not fit those diffs. The diffs come with one in the set. Oh never mind they will work on the other side of the diff cup. But I wanted to say the alloy diff cups is a good price. I had to buy one set for the shims and I paid more than that. I will book mark that for future stuff. Terry
 
Good is a function of budget.

Well made steel bearings with full contact rubber seals will do a decent job for $1 a piece, and are cheap enough to replace every few runs. Next up will be ceramic bearings that can cost anywhere from $5 to $30 each depending on grade.

Sad to say the Savage uses a wierd bearing size on the diff cup, which makes for a little bit more tedium on the bearing hunt.

I've ordered a set of Boca Yellow Seals to try on my Flux, as well as an Innovative RC X1 CRT truggy cup to see if that is a viable alternative for diff rebuilding. The CRT cup uses a 8x16x5 bearing in place of the odd sized and weaker 10x16x5 that is stock on savage cups.

The Boca YS are hybrid steel race/ ceramic ball mid-range bearings. As for the IRC cups, I will post my findings in this thread after I have received them.

DF
 
Diff options

I have had great success with 8x16x5 (pinion / wheel bearing) used on the diffs. The first time i did this, we assembled the "ring gear"(#86030) and diff cup (#86827) together and used a long bolt, a drill,(to rotate it) a "dremmel" tool to grind it and a fine file to finish it! CRUDE, but it has run about 3 gallons through it mostly high speed "snow drifting" in a parking lot and is still tight.The next set were done on a lathe, machined the ends down to fit the "pinion" bearings and then assemble as per instructions. One of my XL`s uses the HPI`s BULLET PROOF diff, the other XL uses the CEN diff mod. The dogbones from the SS / RTR fit in the CEN diffs, but i had to swap them out for my XL DIFF SHAFTS. The posts that i read on the CEN mod said these had to be swapped out but if you are running the #86134 dogbones i think that they will work (don't know for sure cause i didnt do it yet)
 
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