Diff Locker

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hockeyizlife94

hockeyizlife94

Well-Known Member
Messages
191
anyone running diff lockers? after a search that returned almost nothing, i was wondering. it has been my favorite mod i have ever done to my savage and i thought they would have grown substantially in popularity since i got mine right when they started making them for savages...it really looks like not too many people have em, and i have thrown them in all of my MTs and love em..especially with how cheap they are nowadays i definetly reccomomend them
 
i've seen the Maximizer one. never used on in a Savage though. i might try one in my basher....see if i like it and then put one in the racer. I've ran them in all my old tmaxx's......but i mostly ran them on concrete so as you know turning was something else! i do know that you can do awesome cyclones with it installed on dirt!!
 
right after i got my savage i busted the bevel gears.had people to tell me to put epoxy and it would lock the rear.i tried it but it didnt last long. so i welded the gears and been running it ever since. i have twisted and broke a few dogbones and i just had to replace a axle pin. but i love my linkin locker and it was very very cheap.
 
You don't see a lot of lockers because they are very hard on the drive train. Theyre great in mud, snow, and loose dirt, but on a high/hard traction surface like clay, grass, or concrete, they will snap dog bones a lot. Your diff is like a slipper clutch for the wheels. If theres no diff action, all the stress when the spinning wheel hits ground is transferred to the other wheel equally. If both wheels don't have equal traction the one with the most bite will transfer all the stress of a wheel spinning 30+mph being stopped to the dog bones and they will break.
 
Diff Lockers/Diff Problems

Since I upgraded my savage to the 4.6, I haven't been able to keep the bevel gears in one-piece. I have broken the rear gears several times and now the front. I have the maximizer lockers coming in this Friday for both the front and rear, so problem should be solved. I would rather replace dogbones then have to take the truck apart to replace bevel gears all the time.

I do have a question, though, for you guys. I have aluminum front and rear differentials and diff cups. If I ever do decide to go back to a limited slip system again (when road racing) what should I do to get more life out of these things. I have heard some about shimming the diff when putting it together, but where do the shims go? Should I also upgrade the diffs with gear oil instead of grease? Thanks guys!
 
You shim the diff in the case to eliminate the side to side movement. Most diffs bust internally due to the pins wearing out the slots in the plastic cups. With alu cups you shouldnt be breaking them nearly as much. Get the ofna gears not hpi. The hpi gears are cast the ofnas are machined steel.
 
How do you guys feel about using the lockers in the front and back diff? I am doing this becuase I cant keep bevel gears in my 4.6.

Thanks
 
I have them in 2 of my savages, in the rear. Never tried the front. I love it, it does take a differant driving style that you have to get used to. You will brake dogbones till you do. But you can do some mad cyclones!
 
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I heard that dogbones brake more often, but I run CVD's so I hope this will help. I'm currious though why more people don't do this upgrade if they are just going to bash on the dirt. Limited slip would only be realy beneficial on pavement. Just my opinion.:retarded:
 
I think they would be really bad in the front. The wheels are always turning. I'm talking about the steering. they will always need to be at different speeds. You can slide the back, not the front as much. It will be ok if all your doing is mud bogging or snow running, but thats it.
 
Maximizer is what I'm using. Saved me alot of headaches. It pulls wheelies alot easier now. I also would recommend putting one in the front, think of the tire wear, and you'd probably hate the steering. Peace.
 
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If your going to run them ft and bk anyway, make sure your running a looser slipper setting. Remember there is no center diff. I don't want to rain on your parade, but I think your setting your self up for disaster.
 
Heres to hoping... Hopefully the new three speed transmission with metal gears (just installed) will take up the extra stress that will be exposed to it.
 
I bought a... eh eh eh em, cough cough......... T-Maxx (be nice, it was for my son) that had spools front and rear. A front axle (yes, they are junk even when new) went out every run.

I have had no problems with a spool in the rear, and a diff in the front. If you keep yours on really loose terrain, you may be okay front and rear.
 
Ive been using the hardened CVD's in the front and back.... haven't broke one yet. Hopefully these will hold up to the test of the lockers.
 
grumpy1822 said:
You don't see a lot of lockers because they are very hard on the drive train. Theyre great in mud, snow, and loose dirt, but on a high/hard traction surface like clay, grass, or concrete, they will snap dog bones a lot. Your diff is like a slipper clutch for the wheels. If theres no diff action, all the stress when the spinning wheel hits ground is transferred to the other wheel equally. If both wheels don't have equal traction the one with the most bite will transfer all the stress of a wheel spinning 30+mph being stopped to the dog bones and they will break.
Click to expand...


yea ive had mine for about 3 years and love every second i drive with it though...snapped a few heavy duty dogbones, but either way its well well worth it..
 
After running both lockers in the front and rear, I broke 4 dogbones in two tanks.... lets say I am purchased a new 4.6 X differential for the front and the new hot bodies HD CVD's. This should help with the driveshafts snapping in two. So I am here to say that LOCKERS IN THE FRONT AND REAR IS NOT WORTH IT. How does your guys' dogbones hold up with just a locker in the back and LS in the front?
 
I've used a locker in the rear diffs almost since my savage was new (4 yrs ago) and never broken a dog bone, its seriously the best mod ive ever done!
 
kgrames said:
After running both lockers in the front and rear, I broke 4 dogbones in two tanks.... lets say I am purchased a new 4.6 X differential for the front and the new hot bodies HD CVD's. This should help with the driveshafts snapping in two. So I am here to say that LOCKERS IN THE FRONT AND REAR IS NOT WORTH IT. How does your guys' dogbones hold up with just a locker in the back and LS in the front?
Click to expand...

it all depends on what you run on though, did you snap 4 on cement? you will be flying through dogbones one cement with just the rears, let alone all 4. on anything loose, you really shouldnt ever break one due to the diff locker..
 
Stripped the Maximizer diff locker yesterday. I think it's because i was using a plastic diff cup. So I ordered a new locker, HPI aluminum diff cups, and Golden Horizon throttle arm. Peace.
 
Guys I have a question and a comment or something in between maybe...... Let me spit my thoughts and see what how theses thing make any sense to you. And with that, maybe you can make it make sense to me!

A full diff lock I get on a 1:1 race car and tons of traction like asphalt. You need both to push the high horse power low traction. Or a rock crawler that needs it in no grip low speed situations. Even in 1:1 here a selectable locker is preferred as to not brake the drive train when its not needed.
Now I've read 5 people say, "stay off the pavement or you will break stuff." So this puts us back in the loose stuff.. with 75K or higher fluid in the loose stuff you might as well be locked up anyways. You will get no diff action form them at all. But you get on to like asphalt and you have enough give not to break stuff. So with that statement tell me why I would want to use a locker that may cause harm when fluid will give me the same action in the loose stuff. Plus I can rip on high traction areas with out the trip to the LHS...

Sell me on these Caz I don't get it and I want to know why they are used at all. This sounds kind of flame-ish or know it all-ish, but its not at all! This is my full thought process, so you under stand how I see them. This way you can better sell my mind on them! Thanks guys...
~Justin~
 
I see your point, I just have been through too many rear diff gears. I drive really hard, and I use Goliath tires and that alone adds a lot of stress on the drive train. So, with that said. I find the locker lasts longer, way longer. Easier,quicker to install.

Once I get the aluminium diff cups, I'm pretty confident that I won't be replacing one again. I think the plastic diff cup flexxed which cased it to fail. Peace.
 
groovethumper said:
I see your point, I just have been through too many rear diff gears. I drive really hard, and I use Goliath tires and that alone adds a lot of stress on the drive train. So, with that said. I find the locker lasts longer, way longer. Easier,quicker to install.

Once I get the aluminum diff cups, I'm pretty confident that I won't be replacing one again. I think the plastic diff cup flexed which cased it to fail. Peace.
Click to expand...

OK thats a aspect I had not thought of. :resp: After going alloy keep me posted.
 
so I'm on here convincing people to get a diff locker, then i strip my locker...car rolled, skid plate left enough room the the pins to come out, a hd dogbone bent and the rear housing streched open just a tad knocking of the mesh therefore ruining the locker...

ive had mine for three years and i never thought this would happen, but I'm pretty sure vertigo offered lifetime warranties...no i just need to see if they are still in business...
any help would be fantastic
 
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