Destroyed clutch bells.

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T

tonikeys

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Hi guys, been looking in for a while now but only just registered. Bought a used Savage about a month ago. Put a new STS .28 engine in it but it's VERY quickly going through clutch bells.

Am using a 47T spur and have gone through 2X 18T and 1X 15T. Each bell is only lasting about 2 tanks, (except when i was breaking in the new engine when a 18T lasted 7 tanks before destruction)

I'll giuve as much info as possible....

Savage 4.6
Standard gearbox
47T Hardened metal spur. (not sure of brand)
15T & 18T metal Clutch bell (HPI branded)
New aluminium clutch shoes.

I have spent some time to get the mesh right using both the paper method, and using the "very slight movement" method.

There is slight up & down movement of the shaft that the spur sits on, only slight and have just ordered a set of new ones just to be sure.

Have ordered a new set of clutch bell bearing just to be sure.

The front diff is slipping slightly, although I can only hear it slipping when I brake heavily (horrible gear crunching noise) I have ordered a set of hellfire shims to shim the diff.

Engine is secure, no cracks in the engine mount plate.

The spur gear is really tight, only about 1/4 turn out on the nyloc nut.

I haven't been doing any jumping at all, only running on flat grass fields with short grass.


OK, so i've given as much info as I can think of, so have a look at these pics and please give your opinions on how this could be happening.

Cheers guys.



This is what my new clutch bell looks like after 2 tanks of flat ground runs, no bashing.


Savbell.jpg





This is the spur. Does it look ok or do I need a new one? I have a plastic 49T, should I try that?

SavSpur.jpg




Thanks a lot guys.
 
i would throw on the plastic 49t spur gear and stick with the plastic one as that will always be the first thing to break (cheap to fix!) and they hold up well actually! thats what i have and have ran 17 tanks on it and its still like new! and if u have transmission problems the plastic spur gear will always be the first to go not your internal gears as with the steel spur gear! and yes that clutch bell is toast!!!! i think for it to get chewed up like that the mesh must not have been right or something! and also i've read in this forum the slipper clutch-spur gear should be fully tightened then backed off a 1/2 turn not a 1/4 turn and i wouldnt run it with that clutch bell its just gonna chew something else up! hope this helps!
 
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I'll try it with the plastic spur as soon as I get the new bell and bearings.

I'll also re-set the slipper spring to 1/2 turn.

I'm wondering if anyone else who has used a steel spur/bell has suffered this problem before.
 
That spur is shot I got a new one in front of me but camera is blurry...notice how pointy the teeth are...try the plastic and go from there.
 
I've ordered a couple of K Factory clutch bells? Anyone have any experience with these. Are they any good? I THINK they are hardened. Can anyone confirm this. I assume that the HPI one's are NOT hardened, is this right?
 
I've Never Heard Of K Factory Parts Either And I've Read Alot Of Forums And Never Heard It Mentioned So I Couldnt Give U My Thoughts About Them Either Sorry!
 
it says that clutch bell is for 1/8 th buggies or single speed cars, I'm not sure but i wouldnt use that one! go with the robinson racing clutch bell, cant go wrong! its hardened and is great with high horsepower engines! but u will need to use the sav 25 clutch/spur gear setup i think not the dual slipper!
 
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Yea like jester said if you run any kind of metal spur, you have to run a hardened CB, if not well you know what happens 😛. robison raceing is a great product. Make sure if your going to keep running that spur, that any CB you get is hardened. Eather that or go back to stock ste up... Never heard of that CB, if you have doen ordered let use now how they work....
 
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Mondragon said:
Yea like jester said if you run any kind of metal spur, you have to run a hardened CB, if not well you know what happens 😛. robison raceing is a great product. Make sure if your going to keep running that spur, that any CB you get is hardened. Eather that or go back to stock ste up... Never heard of that CB, if you have doen ordered let use now how they work....
Click to expand...


Yeah will do. Should be in a couple of days.
 
Well, I've fitted the K-Factory CB, but have gone back to using the original HPI plastic spur. I know this may sound silly as you don't need to run a hardened CD with a plastic spur but I must say that i'm suprised at how well the plastis spur is holding up. I've ran about 10 tanks through and the spur shows NO sign of any wear.

Who needs metal spurs eh....!!!
 
I don't reccommend a steel setup, but... If your going to run a metal CB/Spur, Get a combo set. Like Rorinson Racing for intsance.

That way you know that the two parts are matched propperly.
Mixing different Spur gear brands with CB's is too risky to take chances with.

So... Stay with a CB/Spur combo, sold as a set.
Thats if you must go steel.
 
I agree with most of the guys. I think your main issue was the steel spur and running the stock CB. Its to soft to work with the hardened spur as said use the plastic spur or RR matched set. I run robinson racing sets on two of my trucks and have had no problems as of yet. True by running these I have eliminated the weak link (plastic spur) but so far I've had good luck I just got tired of replacing the stock spurs. But it sounds as if you are on the right track so enjoy your new truck. Issues can be very frustrating but when these savages work well they are a total blast. Good luck and come on back with any questions you may have, there are a great bunch of guys on here with a lot of free knowledge and experience.
 
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