Couple questions

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This is what I used to use in my savage nitro. It'll run the servo @ 6V however it is capable of running at 7.4V
6306

You could use something like this if you want to run it at 7.4V, but you need to make sure your receiver can handle 7.4V. Also not sure if this would fit in the savage, just a guess lol.
6307

You'd also need, if you don't already have one, a battery charger for these.
 
Thx for the reply.

Kinda wondering if i need something to prevent the servo from killin battery.

And tires

Of course i already have these parts ordered is why i ask..

Those battery packs where to buy a charger for them
 
Thx for the reply.

Kinda wondering if i need something to prevent the servo from killin battery.

And tires

Of course i already have these parts ordered is why i ask..

Those battery packs where to buy a charger for them
I run a glitch buster in my nitro that has the savox 0231 in it as it was giving me brown outs and making my hitec 985MG servo on the throttle twitch.
https://www.dollarhobbyz.com/produc...ower-capacitor-rce2474?variant=12264519991368

It's not a cure, but it does help with surge current.
 
You mentioned denaturex alchohol in another thread of mine to clean the engine with.. in canada there is no such thing.

Do you recommend something else ? Thx

U also mentioned rtv to seal engine. Do u recommend a kind.

I havnt went over any screws on it yet. I think i should buy some loctite ? And go over my truck ?
 
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You don't have denatured alcohol? Just did a search on a few Canadian hardware stores... seems a strange thing to not carry. I guess this stuff is pretty close to it:
https://www.rona.ca/en/methyl-hydrate-0263256--1

Read on woodworking forums that you should wear gloves with using it as it's a bit more toxic than denatured alcohol (methanol vs ethanol).

Some don't seal their engines, but I always do. I use permatex sensor safe rtv, red or grey both seem to work well:
https://www.rona.ca/en/gasket-maker-silicone-copper-80ml-19075011
 
You don't have denatured alcohol? Just did a search on a few Canadian hardware stores... seems a strange thing to not carry. I guess this stuff is pretty close to it:
https://www.rona.ca/en/methyl-hydrate-0263256--1

Read on woodworking forums that you should wear gloves with using it as it's a bit more toxic than denatured alcohol (methanol vs ethanol).

Some don't seal their engines, but I always do. I use permatex sensor safe rtv, red or grey both seem to work well:
https://www.rona.ca/en/gasket-maker-silicone-copper-80ml-19075011

Yea i was standing in canadian tire thinking.. where is it lol.

Looked it up to. Came across the same stuff.. however. Looking into things further.

Denatured alcohol is supposedly ethenol mixed with somethin to make it toxic so noone consums or something.

The stuff u said has nothing with ethenol. So i came home to ask you :)

Thx for the time
 
I remove the engine, then cover up the carb inlet with my thumb, carb fuel inlet (short piece of fuel line with a screw in it), exhaust port with my finger and make sure to have a glow plug in it. Then I spray it good with a spray bottle that has denatured alcohol in it, then scrub it with an old tooth brush. Then spray it again and rinse with water. I sometimes use dish soap instead of DA. Then I shake it dry, then blow it off with compressed air.

If I leave the clutch/cb on, I try to avoid getting that wet or soapy. I also avoid the starter housing as much as possible.
 
Some results

Ordered some denatured alcohol online. I ran out of money before finishing so i need to wait a little bit. Think i still need a hump pack. Goin to look into redoing the umm linkage. Kinda like the looks of the pro tune linkage on amazon. Just unsure if itd work.

Along with somethings recomended. Ill post them once they arrive.

I ordered the actual remote and reciever sold for this truck as mine came with a traxxss remote. Couldnt really complain at the time since the guy just bought the truck new. Upgraded it for durability.. Met a girl the sameday then sold it to me for 400$ new and upgraded.. all he wanted was the remote and the junk tires it came with. Woulda costed me around 1k if i bought it from store myself. With upgrades. (Unfortunatly it was put away wrong due to a wife not being able to hide her toxic nature anymore.) As in i grabbed truck tossed it into a box and ran the fiddlesticks away lol... not what i planned but was so worth it.

Still waiting on most of my orders..

I keep forgetting i ordered a fuel tank off of a idk hyper 7 blah blah a year ago.. I'm lookin forward to seeing how it fits

Wheels just arrived. Ordered them directly from website as there cheaper then buying on ebay or amazon. Think they costed 177$cdn or around 139$usd after shipping.

Went with road crushers for my on road savage lol.

CrEHW4U.jpg



If i tie my shocks down for a lower profile.. will the truck run better on road ?

Sometime i will be ordering flm lcg frame. To lower it more. Just curious about shocks
 
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Will have to try it out.. rest of what i was able to order at the time arrived..

Think i spent 240$ on what is in this picture.. and 180 on the tires above.

Is it worth the price lol.

Gk4AHqI.jpg
 
Got kind of hosed on that ARO. $6 for 1oz?

I just use this stuff, $4 for 2 oz, which is still steep for what it is:
https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDBPE&P=ML

Doesn't matter really, it lasts a long time.

You planning on using a LiPo for a receiver pack? That savox is a bit of a power hungry unit. 6A @6V, 7.4A at 7.4V on stall. Not sure a pack built with AA's will get it done. May need to at least run a 2/3A pack, they can put out 15-20A.

Unless you use something like these, 1.8A rated at 10C should put out 18A max:
https://power.tenergy.com/tenergy-aa-1800mah-10c-NiMH-flat-top-rechargeable-battery/

Really though, considering the minimal capacity over a good 1600mah 2/3A pack, your probably better off just getting a good 2/3A hump pack as it will fit in the receiver box without any headache:
http://www.all-battery.com/6V1600mAh6V1600mAhNiMHSidebySideDoubleHumpBatteryPackwithHitec.aspx
 
Looking for a hump pack that comes with a charger. I bought the racers edge glitch buster like u pointed out hopin it helps with serv

I still need to wait for denatured alcohol.
ALSO need to buy fuel again as my bottle has been in the trunk of my car for over a year.

Gonna be at the end of the month.

My worry is that its also filthy with cat hair etc. Gonna need a good cleaning. Have never takin one apart yet. Also i almost think the roto was slipping some for the last start.

I seem to be missing the battery for the roto start and the metal thing that goes with it.
Unsure if my glow igniter is even charging
Also missing top peice of battery box..

Toxic ppl i tells yea. don't know where any of my stuff is except the damn truck lol.

The servo in the bag is a 30 whatever water proof from hpi. Bought the remote and reciever as i was using a traxxas one.

Has hpi started producing parts or anything yet ?. As I'm debating on getting it working again.. using the cheaper servo and selling it.

Or is it worth tossing I'm 250$ in a servo and four tires
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tenergy-5-...-Receiver-Battery-Pack-w-Charger/391592075839

The charger isn't great, only 200mah, so will take 8 hours to charge. Not a bad deal for $18 though.

Does your receiver switch have an extra pigtail for the charger? If not, you can usually solder one on.

Or you can buy one, take it apart and replace your switch with it, then cut a notch somewhere in your receiver box so the pigtail can hang out.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/RC-Switch-...th-JR-Lead-Connectors-And-Charge/233160114329

I put a charge port on mine before I found out it already had a hole for it... Mine had a hole for a battery meter, but no meter, so I cut up an old skid plate, bought a charge port and installed it.
2012-1223-SavageChargeJack.jpg
 
Maxxpacks.com. Around $30 for 2600 hump pack with 600ma charger. Fits good and battery has charger wire on it. Just gonna put a couple small screws on cover so the wire stays in. They are AA's tho.63586360
 
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Attachment don't work. But thx for the reply. Will take a look
 
Maxxpacks.com. Around $30 for 2600 hump pack with 600ma charger. Fits good and battery has charger wire on it. Just gonna put a couple small screws on cover so the wire stays in. They are AA's tho.View attachment 6358View attachment 6360
If your talking about this one:
https://www.maxxpacks.com/product_i...cts_id=1825&osCsid=6emahvne2va7527joc7e21p747

It's max output is 2A. Not nearly enough for that savox.

This one would work well:
https://www.maxxpacks.com/product_info.php?cPath=316_333_390&products_id=2767

Not seeing a battery/charger combo on there. Only finding them separate with the cheaper pack being $16.50 with a plug on it.
https://www.maxxpacks.com/product_info.php?cPath=80_84_323&products_id=1826

And the wall charger for $20:
https://www.maxxpacks.com/product_info.php?cPath=53_56&products_id=3273
 
Did manage to start the truck and drive abit. However I'm pretty sure i need another part. Was wondering if you would know where to find one. Or an upgrade.

 
I run pull-starts. roto/ez starts don't give you much feedback. And I don't like having to charge/carry one more thing around. If your engine is flooded, you don't know it and it will lock up and cause possible damage to the one way bearing or engine. However, many people do use them.

My guess is that your OWB (one way bearing) is slipping. If it sat a long time, it may have been gunked up and a cleaning will bring it back to life. They aren't are all the same as the savage has had 5 or so different engines on it and differing roto-start systems over the years.

Would need to know the specific engine/truck I think to figure out what you need. Usually, if I replace a one way bearing, I also replace the shaft it spins on as the shaft wears while the bearing wears. So, a new bearing only gets you half as good of use as you would get if you got the shaft and owb both.

https://www.hpiracing.com/search?q=one+way

If it's an internal, then you have to take the start housing and backplate off to get at it to clean it. If it's external, then you have to take the starter housing off to clean it.

From that link, these are external:
107829
1430
15133
1669

And this is internal:
15233

To clean them, I take the bearing out, soak it in DA (denatured alcohol), twist up a paper towel so it fits through the bearing, then wet the towel with DA and spin the bearing on it quite a few times as I work the towel through it. I spin the bearing in both directions. One direction causes the rollers to lock up, the other allows them to spin free. Over time, gunk builds up in them and they don't "lock" anymore. When I think I've fiddled with it enough, I dry it out, then put a drop of ARO in it, clean the starter shaft with towel/DA and give it a try.

If it's external, the way it installs matters. If you install it backwards, it won't lock at all when spinning the starter. If it's internal, it will likely only fit one way.
 
savage x4.6

I got a hump pack. Had to buy a charger and a hookup tk charge diff types of batterys.. also had to get a connector with a new on off switch so the hump pack would work.

Some reason my steering control is backwords ?

Seem to of lost room and have issue getting battery box back on.

The issue I'm having is i cannot seem to find a one way bearing for it. Wouldnt know what all id need.. to me it seems like whatever the tool goes into is very sloppy.

Not looking forward to taking it apart like that. Videos seem to show the engine comming off..

I have obtained almost everything sept denatured alcohol. Just spent another 200$. However i live in a small area. Some cats. Basically doing this sitting on a bed.

Lack of knowledge and functioning space. Really sucks.

Ive been looking at pull start aswell but unsure which one to buy. And then wouldnt the cord come out on a weird angle.

What makes the steering backwords.
 
Usually, there's a switch on the transmitter to reverse the steering action.

I'm not 100% sure what engine came in the X and if it always came with the same one. Do you have the X or XL? XL has a decent amount of room behind the engine... I think from your video, yours is just a regular X. According to the manual I have, it came with this:
Nitro Star F4.6
or this per the hpi web site:
Nitro Star F4.6 V2

Per the HPI site, they use an external OWB:
https://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/1430

Or:
https://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/107829

So, I think your really going to at least have to take the engine out and remove the roto start cover to see which you need. The 14mm or 12mm one way bearing.
 

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